spool time s480
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 157
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My goal is probably 800flywheel HP. Or close enough.
does a bit of copper silicone work, my t4 has a small leak also.
comp test 175 avg.
that 6600rpm needs a good spot to pull. Way to fast for anywhere I usually drive. 6000rpm would be perfect.
does a bit of copper silicone work, my t4 has a small leak also.
comp test 175 avg.
that 6600rpm needs a good spot to pull. Way to fast for anywhere I usually drive. 6000rpm would be perfect.
Good news the Comp. numbers are fine. Get to finding that leak! A T4 s480 might work as it is. I haven't seen the S369's perform as a single in your desired power range I'd be surprised if it did 800FW. That DBrods fella and "lil john" had nothing but bad things to say about them. Others seem have great luck. Never a clear cut answer around these parts! Looking at the comp. map, they seem to operate extremely well at higher pressure ratios you don't typically see with "v8" setups. Local maxed out (for his setup anyway) a FI Billet S366 on his 5.3 around 590whp at 17lbs and it was listed as a "900 HP" turbo. Wasn't making much for power over 15.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 157
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update:
ending up putting on a s475 1.1ar 75 turbine.
wow , sooo good.full boost at 5000 rpm , stall flashes to 3600 so pretty quick.
i dont know if anyone read my other posts about not making spring pressure , but now i have 14psi spring and it made dead on 14psi , not sure how that worked with more than likely higher backpressure
ending up putting on a s475 1.1ar 75 turbine.
wow , sooo good.full boost at 5000 rpm , stall flashes to 3600 so pretty quick.
i dont know if anyone read my other posts about not making spring pressure , but now i have 14psi spring and it made dead on 14psi , not sure how that worked with more than likely higher backpressure
update:
ending up putting on a s475 1.1ar 75 turbine.
wow , sooo good.full boost at 5000 rpm , stall flashes to 3600 so pretty quick.
i dont know if anyone read my other posts about not making spring pressure , but now i have 14psi spring and it made dead on 14psi , not sure how that worked with more than likely higher backpressure
ending up putting on a s475 1.1ar 75 turbine.
wow , sooo good.full boost at 5000 rpm , stall flashes to 3600 so pretty quick.
i dont know if anyone read my other posts about not making spring pressure , but now i have 14psi spring and it made dead on 14psi , not sure how that worked with more than likely higher backpressure
You don't need onboard air to pin the gate shut if you have a holley (and probably other standalones). I'm using a single noid and if you set boost control/method up as "Boost by RPM" you can set the duty cycle to 100% (gate fully shut) until a certain rpm and manipulate duty cycle as you want it based on any rpm. It's pretty slick but definitely won't fix this issue. This is some kind of hot side leak and combination of tuning IMO.
You don't need onboard air to pin the gate shut if you have a holley (and probably other standalones). I'm using a single noid and if you set boost control/method up as "Boost by RPM" you can set the duty cycle to 100% (gate fully shut) until a certain rpm and manipulate duty cycle as you want it based on any rpm. It's pretty slick but definitely won't fix this issue. This is some kind of hot side leak and combination of tuning IMO.
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On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 157
Likes: 1
How do you figure you could get full boost by 3500rpm from slow cruise stab of the throttle when you have a flash speed of 3500 , that would mean boost would hit max in like 0.1 seconds ??am i missing something
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
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Although the car seems quicker and builds boost much faster going from a rolling stop to about 80mph, the new turbo has about 5 psi more the whole way through but the rpm curves are identical which although i dont have a speed input i am assuming are actually going the same ??
surely running 5psi more the whole way through it would have a lot more power?
what are some tests to know what the converter is doing or causing any issues ?
surely running 5psi more the whole way through it would have a lot more power?
what are some tests to know what the converter is doing or causing any issues ?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 157
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Well my butt feel must be off , definitely quicker up top speed , top gear .
i noticed all my pulls never really made it past 6000rpm which was weird. kept hearing a knocking sound so checked and i think just the hot side crossover hitting the kframe. but then after checking a few spark plugs i noticed #2 was completely shut , being a br7ef it has the v groove which im guessing kept it going half decent.
googled what that could of been , im usually very careful after setting all my gaps numerous times to get them correct. ???so **** knows there
switched in a new plug , pulled instant up to 6500 street.
seems like im constantly chasing issues here lol.
checked compression again because i remeber that cylinder being on the lower side but pulled 180 hot pretty much all spot on 180 on the left bank.
i noticed all my pulls never really made it past 6000rpm which was weird. kept hearing a knocking sound so checked and i think just the hot side crossover hitting the kframe. but then after checking a few spark plugs i noticed #2 was completely shut , being a br7ef it has the v groove which im guessing kept it going half decent.
googled what that could of been , im usually very careful after setting all my gaps numerous times to get them correct. ???so **** knows there
switched in a new plug , pulled instant up to 6500 street.
seems like im constantly chasing issues here lol.
checked compression again because i remeber that cylinder being on the lower side but pulled 180 hot pretty much all spot on 180 on the left bank.
I would run them at .022-.024. That timing is super crazy soft in boost for good air temps and E85. I made 1008 rwhp with 18.5 degrees on 23 psi on e85. We read the plug right after the dyno pull and it was perfect. Also you can't read a plug with multiple pulls or any normal run time on it. Make a WOT pull and immediately shut off then pull and read. You're leaving a lot on the table with timing. It is uber safe if that is what you're after but there is 50-100 hp in it with timing IMO. My car picked up 35 hp with just adding 2 degrees at like 8.5 psi. Don't go just making huge changes, but learn to read plugs and start adding some timing slowly. You want the timing mark basically right at the bend on the strap, unless you want it extra spicy lol.