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How to make 03 Z06 800+ RWHP?

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Old 07-20-2004, 12:50 AM
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I had a 4.060 bore iron block twy years ago and even that was aggressive.

Like Gordon said I would go 4.000 or 4.030 at the most, 4.125 is not possible.
Old 07-20-2004, 12:54 AM
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I dont know why people keep talking about going with C5R or Iron blocks.... I never heard of a LS1/LS6 block crack under boost soo far. Did u guys see a LS1/LS6 block crack from boost?
Old 07-20-2004, 01:29 AM
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Three reasons why the LS1/LS6 Block isnt as good as the Iron/C5R blocks.

1.The aluminum blocks distort more. Bad cylinder sealing and bearing wear that can lead to failure.

2. The bulk heads break (sp)

3. The threads in the block stretch under higher boost. Head lifting problem is less with an iron block.

Thoes are the reasons i have found or been told by shops.
Old 07-20-2004, 01:41 AM
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Originally Posted by LSs1Power
I dont know why people keep talking about going with C5R or Iron blocks.... I never heard of a LS1/LS6 block crack under boost soo far. Did u guys see a LS1/LS6 block crack from boost?
As far as I know, under high tensile forces stock LS1 / LS6 blocks start deflecting and moving which results in lifting of heads. That is the reason you don't see many people cracking the LS1 or LS6 block cause you will lift the heads way before cracking the block. Now, boring the LS1 / LS6 to higher 4.000 or higher bores reduces the cylinder thickness and makes the block more prone to deflection under tensile forces. C5-R block is manufactured to withstand much more tensile forces than the LS1 / LS6 although all of them are aluminum blocks. And the iron cast block is resistant to any deflection because of material property. It's massive iron and is not moving anywhere.

Old 07-20-2004, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
1st- I have been with the high horsepower rotaries for 4-5 years now. I recently signed up with this forum in hopes of technical help and so forth. The reason being that I am foregoing the task of swapping my beloved 13/20b for a LSx. I am not sure anymore though. I have dynoed 611hp from my turboed 13b-1.3L, another buddy I used to race with dynoed his 20b @ 846. If we are making this much power with so little displacment, why the difficulty with the MUCH bigger engines????
HP and Torque curves always cross at 5,252rpm, and the big motors have big torque down low, the small motors have to keep on revving to get a high HP number. I wish there were a number to describe the total area under the curve, this may put 500HP of a rotary in perspective with 500hp of a big motor. Not sure if you're talking rwhp, but with big motor cars we always talk rwhp. My first cars were Datsuns which had to furiously rev trying to keep up with the big cars, car seemed like a terrier among rotweilers. At least until I put a '63 olds aluminum V8 in a Datsun 1600 convertible.
Old 07-20-2004, 02:10 AM
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Build a 370 motor

6.0L iron block .30" over with a stock 5.7L crank
Old 07-20-2004, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by LSs1Power
I dont know why people keep talking about going with C5R or Iron blocks.... I never heard of a LS1/LS6 block crack under boost soo far. Did u guys see a LS1/LS6 block crack from boost?
I have a 6.0 litre CI block bored to 4.06 that has made 869 rwhp on a Mustang dyno with ~17 lbs. of boost (last year). I agree that 4.06 and maybe 4.08 would be the max, but I have no real evidence to point to.
Old 07-20-2004, 09:57 AM
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With the amount of core shift in a 6.0 block, only a select amount can take a 4.060 or 4.080 overbore. A 4.080 ovebored 6.0 block is very rare.
Old 07-20-2004, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
With the amount of core shift in a 6.0 block, only a select amount can take a 4.060 or 4.080 overbore. A 4.080 ovebored 6.0 block is very rare.
Based on my friends' experiences, it is difficult to find a good and true CI block.
Old 07-20-2004, 10:08 AM
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A C5R block is in a class all it's own, it's a better block than a production LS1, LS6, 5.3, 6.0 or 4.8 block. Kurt Urban would be the best guy to expound on this, but it's a different metal alloy and it's also goes through a fancier hardening process.

If I were to try to build an low to mid 8 second car I would look at getting a C5R block.
Old 07-20-2004, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Evil Turbo SS
I wouldnt go with a 427 on an Iron block or the C5R block. Thats a lot of stress with a long stroke on any block. I would build a 370-388 cid 6L Iron block motor (new) Have the block fitted with thicker head bolts and use the AFR heads. I think you could build that motor for 11k. Then I would do a single turbo.

Do the Holdens (GTO) use the newwer fuel system? Whats different about it?

Starr performance offers a MAF delete kit with a 2 bar MAP. CAn we user that on the US cars?
I think that is a great idea.

.030 over ironblock, 4.030 blower pistons and good rods, good bolts/studs with stock crank.

high flowing heads (2.08/1.60 valves)

Blower cam (236/242 on 114 or so)

Wouldn't be too expensive at all for the motor.

Then...

custom steel bracket and F series blower

Giant front mount intercooler

Sumped tank and full fuel system

Some sort of engine management software.

good gas and tune
Old 07-20-2004, 11:02 AM
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Gordon what's the lastest on your car, you have an F1 on there now?
Old 07-20-2004, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
1st- I have been with the high horsepower rotaries for 4-5 years now. I recently signed up with this forum in hopes of technical help and so forth. The reason being that I am foregoing the task of swapping my beloved 13/20b for a LSx. I am not sure anymore though. I have dynoed 611hp from my turboed 13b-1.3L, another buddy I used to race with dynoed his 20b @ 846. If we are making this much power with so little displacment, why the difficulty with the MUCH bigger engines????
Someone already answered this, but rotaries have 2.5 combustion cycles per revolution. your 1.3 liter is more like 3.2liter or so. a 2.0 liter 3 rotor is more like a 5 liter. Rotaries also produce a lot hotter exhaust gasses. The love turbos. You are comparing apples and oranges here.

Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
2nd- WTF is up with the pricing of your guys turbo/supercharger kits???? You guys cant be serious that you pay upwards of $6000-$10000 trying to achieve 800rwhp! If someone could please give me a breakdown of these prices to see where these funds are going, Are these companies utilizing inconel exhuast manifolds or something?LOL. Seriously, If these are "standard" kits- twin turbos(could be dual ceramic ball bearings), Wastegate(s), BOV, manifolds, oil lines,etc WHERE IS THE OTHER $2-6k coming in at?
A v8 requires 8 exhaust runners, and a lot more plumbing. The rotary turbo kits are simple and don't include an intercooler. A greddy t-78 turbo kit sells for $2800 at most dealers cost (means you got a smoking good deal). By the time you add a $1000+ dollar intercooler you're already up to about $4000 and still need a blow off valve etc. I don't really see how quality rotary turbo kits are that much cheaper.

Rotary's also only need 4 fuel injectors. (less cost when it comes to fuel systems)

Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
3rd- Does anyone here utilize meoh injection on your setups???
Yes, Meth, alcohol, and water injection are utlizied on some setups. Some people have made a lot of power relieing on these systems.

Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
4th- Could someone please give a brief description of what kind of CFMs these engines move, to correctly give an accurate compressor/turbine/AR sizing.
I'm at work and don't have time.. but it isn't that hard to calculate if you look up the specs on a ls1.

Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
5th- I have been a long time Haltech enthusiast, and am very unfimiliar with the "EDIT" system. Is this a true SAMS? If not, MUCH more power can be attained from a true SAMS ie-Haltech, Motec, Fast, Microtech,Wolf,AEM, etc.
I will agree here. Many of the LS1 enthusiasts are stuck on LS1edit. Imo, it sucks and I'm planning to run an AEM or FJO stand alone.

Some people run FAST etc... So yes enginemanagement is being used, just not as commonly as in the rotary world.

Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
6th- If no one can give an accurate or reasonable breakdown of question 2- I WILL GLADLY START SELLING MY OWN KITS FOR THOSE PRICES!
If you make a good kit cheap enough.. I'm sure people will buy it.
Old 07-20-2004, 12:47 PM
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I have been advised by bunch of people that block is not the way to go cheap if you are building a moster RWHP machine. So, I guess I should go with a C5-R block then. Bored to 4.125 with a 4.000 stroke.

Do you pick the piston bore size slightly larger than block bore size? Why dished pistons on supercharged cars? Can I order custom Lunati pistons? How do I know how much -cc? Do they thermal coat these pistons? How do I determine my compression ratio? I am thinking of 9.0:1 with 16 pounds of boost at 6000 rpm. Does that make sense? Centrifugal supercharger works linear to engine speed. But is there a way to keep 14-16 pounds of boost from 4000 to 6500 rpm? How much boost will I be making at 2000 rpm? All this is with a F1-R blower.

Does anybody have contact info for Lunati? I guess I should give them a call.

Wow, I just asked you guys a ton of questions. But I'm getting good replies and info. Thanks for all the input.


Old 07-20-2004, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedQuest TV
1st- I have been with the high horsepower rotaries for 4-5 years now. I recently signed up with this forum in hopes of technical help and so forth. The reason being that I am foregoing the task of swapping my beloved 13/20b for a LSx. I am not sure anymore though. I have dynoed 611hp from my turboed 13b-1.3L, another buddy I used to race with dynoed his 20b @ 846. If we are making this much power with so little displacment, why the difficulty with the MUCH bigger engines????
Seems like you're fishing.. maybe you better stop by the fishing shop for a better lure.

Just out of curiousity.. why are you considering a pushrod v8 if you're making such great numbers?

I'd ask you more about your turbo rotary setup (sounds like you're using two power adders), but I feel this is already border line hi-jacking (just helping to defend the LS1 peeps).


anyways... back to our regularly scheduled program.
Old 07-20-2004, 01:41 PM
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Any reason why no one has mentioned a screw type SC w/ aftercooler for this application? Don't they make one? They fit on the vette's with a slightly modded hood... correct? I don't know much about these systems on your engines, but I know I don't care for the centrifugal style because the boost build in a linear manor with RPM. I know many on here keep saying use a centrifugal SC... yes they will make the big number, but other methods offer way more power at lower RPM's which is more usable power IMO while still being able to reach your HP requirement. I'd gladly pay a little more for a FI system that made full boost at lower RPM's, rather than the centrifugal types which only make the # at peak RPM.

Just my 3 cents.
Old 07-20-2004, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Wet 1
Any reason why no one has mentioned a screw type SC w/ aftercooler for this application? Don't they make one? They fit on the vette's with a slightly modded hood... correct? I don't know much about these systems on your engines, but I know I don't care for the centrifugal style because the boost build in a linear manor with RPM. I know many on here keep saying use a centrifugal SC... yes they will make the big number, but other methods offer way more power at lower RPM's which is more usable power IMO while still being able to reach your HP requirement. I'd gladly pay a little more for a FI system that made full boost at lower RPM's, rather than the centrifugal types which only make the # at peak RPM.

Just my 3 cents.
Never get enough boost out of the current kits (pulley limitations).

Hard to go over 8# on a stock bottom end with one.

Old 07-20-2004, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Gordon what's the lastest on your car, you have an F1 on there now?
I had the F1 on the car and we had bracket flex problems that would lead to belt failure. I sent the F1 to Procharger to get a standard spining f1 blower and am having custom brakets made(I can run a wider belt now). I had to delete the power steering and relocate the ALT. we are also doing the griffin FMIC at the same time.
Old 07-20-2004, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Wet 1
Any reason why no one has mentioned a screw type SC w/ aftercooler for this application? Don't they make one? They fit on the vette's with a slightly modded hood... correct? I don't know much about these systems on your engines, but I know I don't care for the centrifugal style because the boost build in a linear manor with RPM. I know many on here keep saying use a centrifugal SC... yes they will make the big number, but other methods offer way more power at lower RPM's which is more usable power IMO while still being able to reach your HP requirement. I'd gladly pay a little more for a FI system that made full boost at lower RPM's, rather than the centrifugal types which only make the # at peak RPM.

Just my 3 cents.
There is no Twin Screw blower for a Corvette. There is a M112 roots non intercooled blower (same junk thats on a 03 Cobra) Starr performance makes one for the GTO that could support 800 rwhp. they use a 3.3L Intercooled whipple with a 95 mm TB and intercooler set up. The accs. drive on the GTO is the same as on a vette so im sure you could get one to work with a vette. The 3.3L w/ intercooler would require a much higher cowl hood than the magnussun. GTO owners have to cut the hood to get the 3.3 L to fit. the 2.3 L will fit under a stock GTO hood.

No one is familiar with the MAF delete that the ausies are using to tune LS1 cars past the 800 rwhp mark?
Old 07-20-2004, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris ARE 385
Never get enough boost out of the current kits (pulley limitations).

Hard to go over 8# on a stock bottom end with one.

Why is that, are the units undersized for the application?



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