wrong cam for turbo?what should I go with?
Thanks in advance
By "MEAN", I am assuming you meant idle or lope. You do not want any type of lope with a turbo cam. And as you already stated, you want a reverse split and a large LSA to keep the exhaust back pressure from goin up into your intake.
Hope this helps,
Paul
Your current cam will make more power than a stock cam for a turbo setup for sure.. Duration makes power. Might see stronger midrange at the expense of peak horsepower. With the overlap of that camshaft you might make the same power as if you had a mild cam in there...
HKS 264/274 *advertised* splits kick *** in imports with restrictive factory manifolds and smallish turbine sides.
The idea here is to run less intake duration which allows you to open the intake valve alot later preventing overlap and therefore reversion. There are different kinds of reversion...
You can have intake charge get pumped back out after BDC because the intake valve was held open too long..
You can have it happen on the exhaust side in more than one way.. The valve opens too far before BDC, it vents then flows back in a bit because the piston has'nt moved that far up the exhaust stroke so cylinder pressure dips a split sec . It will get pushed out as it gets closer to TDC but flow still changes direction..
Now reversion can happen later too. The worst is having post TDC reversion on an engine with too much overlap.. The exhaust charge will make its way out the intake since the cylinder pressure drops below the exhaust manifold.
The goal is to have valve events just right...
Close the exhaust just before, at or very shortly after TDC ...
When cylinder pressure is about equal to exhaust manifold pressure that is the goal but dont do it too late or the cylinder pressure will drop bellow the E manifold since the piston is going down making room....
Open the intake valve a ways after the exhaust closing... The cylinder pressure should be below the intake pressure then..
The intake closing point is mostly an RPM deal on on turbo engine..
You don't need to keep it open as long for a mid rpm power band as an all out racing engine. In fact you will make more power in the mid RPM than the high rpm engine. At your target RPM too late an intake closing will result in that intake flow reversion I was talking about.. You had the valve open long enough for a good filling... now the piston pushes the charge out because you got greedy. Closing it too soon for your target RPM and you will close it before it can force the maximum possible amount of air into the cylinder. Since an intake stroke takes less time per cycle at a higher rpm you will have more open time and will loose out on some hp lower in the RPM range but have more peak... A lower rpm has more time for everyting to take place so it get as "full as it is going to get" long before a high RPM cam closes the big valve.
The exhaust opening is about RPM too... Open it sooner = better high RPM Opening it later = better low rpm power...
Too late of an exh opening (same closing point) and you have more left over exhaust in your cylinder and higher ex mani pressure.. A certain degree of this is engineered into factory turbo car cams to help spool They hold on to the exhaust longer to unleash more peak pressure on the turbine... On a ho hum street car that is fine...
Too early of an exhaust opening will take away some of the force that was pushing the piston down on the power stroke. A cam for an upper RPM will make more power there than down low due to this. But there are limits as in too early for even 8k rpm.. An opening event too early for 4k could be just right for 6,800...
One vote for a standard split cam here... It just has to be one with no overlap... in most cases the opposite of overlap... a spread.. Atleast 10* more exhaust duration than intake.. LSA will be dependant on duration probably in the 114-117 range for a performance cam... Alot of high perf cams for factory turbo cars have about the same EVC (exhaust valve closing) and IVO (intake valve open) points.. Those two are where you get the most trouble.. The other two IVC (int close) and EVO (ex open) are within reason all about matching a desired RPM for peak power.
DSM examples... theory applies.. numbers dont.
IVO: Intake valve open 7 deg BTDC
IVC: Intake valve closed 25 deg ABDC
EVO: Exhaust Valve open 42 deg BBDC
EVC: Exhaust Valve closed -10 deg ATDC
This is a CUSTOM comp for 4g63's
IO - 2 BTDC 203 duration 99.5 centerline
IC - 21 ABDC
EO - 45 BBDC 211 duratrion 119.5 centerline
EC - -14 ATDC
Now on a 2 valve engine you should close the exhaust valve later and open it sooner because it dont flow as good in fact you will want more duration than this example on both sides but a split about the same in the same direction... You still would want more exhaust duration than intake and 12 degrees or so of sepration between them so -2 ATDC to +5 ATDC.. ATDC means after top dead center so a - number is really before TDC. Then maybe -10 to -17 BTDC depending on the exhaust close on the intake... Before TDC which means a - is after TDC.. So the cylinder pressure of leftover exhaust can drop when the piston does and be below intake pressure.
NO engine gets rid of all exhaust.. You know you have the right specs on EA pro when you get good power, low ex man pressure and the least amount of residual exhaust %. There is also reversion and short circuit data. You can see the different kinds of reversion as they happen. I'd download the demo and play with cam specs. Screw up on purpose to see exagerated examples.. Then get serious.. When I have time I'll do a use EA to put up a comparison of a 234/226 vs some specs I cam up with for a regular split..
You can make big power with a small intake duration... Too big a intake duration means overlap and with a log manifold you WILL revert. So in reality those extra degrees of open before when you should have opened it just dont put any air in the cylinder... Any degrees after the optimum closing point is just wasted dynamic compression because it had filled enough and you should have shut the valve and started squeezing it already.
The best exhaust duration depends on the rpm range and the amount of boost you are running... More boost = more exhaust volume to get rid of so more duration.. More RPM means opening the exhaust valve sooner so more duration..
For example, a 224/224 on a 112 will make more peak power than a 224/224 on a 116, at the expense of response and low end power. (boost threshold will be higher).
Overlap with a turbo cam is fine. Even if reversion does happen, you will still make more HP due to reduced pumping losses.
Now a tight turbine housing.. a not so high tech turbine wheel and a log manifold it will run like crap with those big cams.. Alot of overlap due to the high exhaust manifold pressure vs intake = alot of residual exhaust left in the intake charge. You trade one loss for another and lose more power.
Overlap with a turbo cam is fine. Even if reversion does happen, you will still make more HP due to reduced pumping losses.
Ask Chris at comp...I have had numerous talks with comps best turbo cam guys...
They have a 236/236 115 LSA custom grind with turbo specific profiles that rocks.. Provided you have good headers and alot of turbine flow.
With a turbo(s) you can get losses from too much duration too.. With overlap or lack there of being the same look at the intake valve closing points... Too late or too early means you missed HP. A cam will make its peak power where dynamic compression is the highest..
The whole point to a long intake duration on a non forced induction engine is that the engine is pulling all the air in and the airflow lags behind piston movement. With a supercharger or turbo the intake valve should close sooner since the air is'nt playing catch up with the piston much at all... Compress it don't blow it back out the intake port.
I just think never say never and never say always on some things. There are examples of what you are saying that definately prove it.. Just what most people are building does'nt look anything like those examples.
Honestly if money were no object just put a pressure sensor at the end of 1ft of metal tubing before the turbine.. Datalog your manifold pressure on the intake side too and send the data and complete engine specs to comp.. They will grind you a cam that will blow your mind.. The big deal is exhaust manifold pressure vs boost pressure across the RPM that will determine what cam specs are right.
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Even when my backpressure was nearly double boost pressure, the higher duration/overlap cam made more power.
I guess I'll stay with my testing and results, and you can stay with theory and hypothesis.
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Even when my backpressure was nearly double boost pressure, the higher duration/overlap cam made more power.
Hmm... So if you have more exhaust duration than intake you will have less overlap AND less exhaust pressure so what overlap you may have is less of a problem.. Where have I heard that before.
Since he has log mani's no overlap is good overlap... I assume you have some 4 into one headers feeding your turbine housings... So some overlap yet still very much less than a non turbo car is a good thing.
I guess I'll stick with listening to and learing from the testing and results of people who design highperformance camshafts. As well as those who have built alot of turbocharged cars.
That's assuming the turbo is large enough to waste the air being unused with falling way out of it's efficiency ratio. Your car has responded well because of the size of your turbo's, plenty of air for 1100+hp, but all turbo cars are not that lucky.
There's WAY too much involved for the "what's a good turbo cam" question. It's like asking "what's a good car". It all depends...
Without getting into a cam theory debate, which I'm all for I just hate to type, ANY cam will make power with a turbo, just like any cam will make power NA, supercharged, etc. It's all about efficiency with turbo's though, you want a cam that keeps your turbo in it's sweet spot for maximum power. Larger overlap cams will require more RPM from the turbo to create the same manifold boost as a no overlap cam which is no big deal if the higher RPM of the turbo keeps it in it's peak efficiency island. However, for all intensive purposes the cam you have now will work, but with stock heads a small reverse split, like 2-4 degrees would most likely make more power. If you're running a mid 230 duration cam, say a 236/234 on a 115, there is still going to be no mistaking that car's got a cam in it. It'll still lope pretty hard, no worries.

The 272 is really only a 213 duration at .050 cam.. You really are'nt going to see an extremely drastic difference with any combination of the HKS cams.. There is no overlap on any of them.. Its a 16v turbo engine alot of duration is'nt needed which is why the biggest cam I have ever seen is a 220 at .050..
have a turbine restricting flow.

Yes you can run a better exhaust manifold and turbo then a different cam... ... but my point was that the ratio of the exhaust manifold pressure to the intake manifold pressure determines what cam specs are right... So some guy goes hey I have x turbo and a log manifold and need a cam... Not I want to change my turbo, manifold and get a cam.
I'm saying a cam with the correct valve timing events for a turbo will force more air into the engine with a much smaller duration than a huge intake duration cam. Any duration before the intake stroke does nothing on a turbo engine as compared to a NA motor. The amount of duration after the intake stroke reaches BDC is alot less to.. Truth be told too much intake duration than what you need for your RPM goal and you just
fresh charge back out the intake as the piston rises... 
Check this thread out and show it to your camshaft designers who had decades of experince because i think they need to learn something new
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=88765
QUOTE]
Damn, to think I wasted all that time under my hood and on the dyno, when I could have learned everything there is to know just by picking up HOT ROD magazine!
LOL!
QUOTE]
Damn, to think I wasted all that time under my hood and on the dyno, when I could have learned everything there is to know just by picking up HOT ROD magazine!
LOL!


Check this thread out and show it to your camshaft designers who had decades of experince because i think they need to learn something new
http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=88765
You know what here is a quote from that site.
A HKS 272 = 213* at .050. Its a 213/203 at .050 combination THERE IS NO OVERLAP INFACT THERE IS A SEPERATION of 2-3 degrees when there is a 272/272 combo so it is wider with 272/264 by about 5 degrees.. So at .050 the exhaust valve closes about 8 degrees before the intake.
a 264/272 comes out to around 108* lobe seperation advanced 8 degrees...
Intake centerline 100* exhaust is 116*...
A 272/264 comes out to around 108* lobe seperation advanced 9 degrees...
Intake centerline 99* exhaust 117*
I am willing to bet that if you used adjustable cam gears to dial in a 264/272's Exhaust closing and Intake open points at .050 to match the 272/264's it will walk all over it. I'll put even more $ on the table if I can run my comp exhaust cam with a with a touch more duration (7 degrees) and lift in the exhaust side instead. Then run HKS 272 intake. I actually run a std pattern 220/220 at .050 (HKS 272 is 213) right now since I don't have excessive backpressure and there is'nt an overlap problem anyway.
An LS1 with a huge turbine housing like a thumper, headers and a well designed exhaust system may well work good with a bigger single pattern and even a reverse pattern cam. However my money, pinkslip, first born etc is on a single pattern with just enough duration for the intended powerband.
A restrictive turbine housing and wheel combination wont do so well with that. IT IS'NT ONE SIZE FITS ALL WITH TURBO CAMS... It's all about what the turbo system is.
From a Comp Employee
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/show...ight=comp+cams
As far as volumetric efficiency is concerned, let’s assume that the intake closing is at the same point with two setups. Setup A we have an exhaust opening of 42 degrees before bottom dead center (BBDC). In Setup B we change the lobe separation 5 degrees. The exhaust opening is now at 37 degrees BBDC. We just allowed the exhaust gases to "push" on the piston for another 5 degrees. This will increase the VE. However the torque will fall off quicker as the rpms increase so the peak hp will be less. This is because of the lack of available time to expel the exhaust gases. Now this assumes that the intake closing is not changed. If it is, a whole new range of possibilities can occur.
http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ICK/index.html
Race weight: 3,430 pounds
Best ET/mph: 8.57 at 159.87
Tell him he should have run a 234/226 and watch him laugh and blow your doors off...
. YOU DONT mother
trucking need a big cam
anyone suggesting t-rex like duration is
something illegal.. What I mean by a good cam for a restrictive manifold is like 220/230 ish... or so depending on the size and RPM range of the motor maybe slightly smaller or slightly bigger...
With a really good (only log you left in the toilet) turbo system run a single pattern.
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...rb/index3.html
If you want to tell these guys they are wrong feel free...
www.compcams.com
mailto:sales@bennettracing.com
OMFG... This magazine was around before pong and cable TV... It is'n an HP tv infomercial..
Last edited by V8_DSM_V8again; Jul 23, 2004 at 12:07 AM.



