blow by
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blow by Hey guys I got an 02 zo6, I had a freshly redone forged ls3 dropped in with an a&a kit, just about 3 months ago. I took it to the tuner recently and on the 2nd small pull to about 5k, oil shot out of the breather and got everywhere. Afterwards on idle theres a bit of smoke coming from the oil filler area. Now I'm pretty certain that its gonna be the rings, because the same thing happened to me back in about august. I got the same ls3 had an unknown shop tear it down and build it back up with stock pistons rods etc. It only took a few pulls before it was steaming out at idle similar to what I get now just worse. Once it was tore down cylinder 7 had a cracked ringland and that's when I decided to forge it. My question is how could this have happened again? The motor looked solid and the engine builder has a lot of experience. The tune wasn't far off, and I wasn't beating on the engine previous to the tune session just the normal break in procedure .According to the build sheet it says top ring .032, 2nd .033 the piston to wall clearance is .0035 Let me know what you guys think.
Do you have video of the oil filler at idle?
Some vapor (which can look like smoke) is not abnormal to come out of there.
What is your crank case ventilation setup like?
How much boost were you making?
Definitely do a compression test to verify the internals aren't hurt.
I had a boosted SBE LS1 that would push a bit of steam after an *** kicking but the compression always came back solid.
Some vapor (which can look like smoke) is not abnormal to come out of there.
What is your crank case ventilation setup like?
How much boost were you making?
Definitely do a compression test to verify the internals aren't hurt.
I had a boosted SBE LS1 that would push a bit of steam after an *** kicking but the compression always came back solid.
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Teching In
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The fuel is regular 93, injectors are still fairly new they are the 80# injectors that come with the a&a kit, the tuner is also the same pat g in Victoria Texas does all my tunes. I'll try to post a video for you guys when I get a chance.
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Verdad Gallardo That's not bad, ring gap was kinda wide based on what I've read about others doing, of course forged slugs might call for more gap too, do a compression check to be sure.
Its easy and cheap and will give you a definitive answer.
I doubt your tune is off, Pat G. tuned my 02 SS Camaro and that bitch made 700whp for four years on pump swill so that man definitely knows his ****.
Its easy and cheap and will give you a definitive answer.
I doubt your tune is off, Pat G. tuned my 02 SS Camaro and that bitch made 700whp for four years on pump swill so that man definitely knows his ****.
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Yeah, as the car was running he had his labtop hooked up to it and said everything looked good. He didnt see anything abnormal and wanted to do more pulls, but I decides not to as I had to drive the car back over 2 hrs to san antonio.
Take a hard look at your engine ventilation setup too.
Mine was insufficient on my 02 SS and one night it literally blew the oil dipstick out of the holder and sprayed oil everywhere.
Fully expected the engine to be shot but it wasn't, comp test came back okay, revised the breather setup with bigger lines and beat on it for three more years until I sold it.
A single catch can with a -12 line is what I used with a check valve and 3/8 line to TB for a vacuum source, you don't have to have vacuum but you definitely need lines big enough to flow the volume and keep pressure out of the crank case.
Mine was insufficient on my 02 SS and one night it literally blew the oil dipstick out of the holder and sprayed oil everywhere.
Fully expected the engine to be shot but it wasn't, comp test came back okay, revised the breather setup with bigger lines and beat on it for three more years until I sold it.
A single catch can with a -12 line is what I used with a check valve and 3/8 line to TB for a vacuum source, you don't have to have vacuum but you definitely need lines big enough to flow the volume and keep pressure out of the crank case.
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I ordered the mighty mouse setup last week, soo if the leakdown and compression test come back good then that's the next move to see if that helps. It's just weird I've been driving it for months with zero smoke from the oil fill area and now it does it at idle.
Engines do weird things sometimes, mine would make strange noises from time to time.
Inspected the oil on every change and opened the filter but never found any signs of abnormal wear.
I was burping the coolant system one time and the temp got up around 220-225 and the amount of steam coming out of the breather was really bad.
Thought I might have popped a head gasket, did a compression check and a leak down afterwards and all was good, after temp was normal the stream was greatly reduced, almost like the raised temp was cooking off all the extra condensation inside the engine.
I ran that SBE combo at 700whp for years and it never gave issue or failed, just weird little things from time to time.
Inspected the oil on every change and opened the filter but never found any signs of abnormal wear.
I was burping the coolant system one time and the temp got up around 220-225 and the amount of steam coming out of the breather was really bad.
Thought I might have popped a head gasket, did a compression check and a leak down afterwards and all was good, after temp was normal the stream was greatly reduced, almost like the raised temp was cooking off all the extra condensation inside the engine.
I ran that SBE combo at 700whp for years and it never gave issue or failed, just weird little things from time to time.
Leak down will tell the story.
To me, that piston to wall is pretty tight for a supercharged engine.
What brand of pistons are in it?
As far as the tuning, if Pat said it was really close, then it was. Pull to 5000 is the correct process.
Watched your video. The way it puffs, just doesn’t look good to me.
Let us know what the mechanic finds.
Ron
To me, that piston to wall is pretty tight for a supercharged engine.
What brand of pistons are in it?
As far as the tuning, if Pat said it was really close, then it was. Pull to 5000 is the correct process.
Watched your video. The way it puffs, just doesn’t look good to me.
Let us know what the mechanic finds.
Ron
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Finally got around to doing a comp test, which I did cold so unsure how accurate the numbers are. I did see plugs on cylinders 3 and 5 had oil on them. 7 was clean and well as the rest.
#2-180
#4-180
#6-180
#8-180
#1-180
#3-165
#5-165
#7-120
#2-180
#4-180
#6-180
#8-180
#1-180
#3-165
#5-165
#7-120
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Going to throw another variable at you, did you test the cylinders in the order posted ? Fuel pressure bled off and pump shut down ? Throttle held wide open? Battery charger hooked up ? Battery voltage dropping as you go from cyl. To cyl. Can cause the test numbers to drop , a quick way to rule that out is to retest #2 with the Battery in it's current state, if it's still at 180 your test is good - engine not. Also have to make sure you're not injecting fuel which will wash down cylinders more and more as the test goes on . Hopefully your test is accurate and you have found your problem, unfortunately not the cause of it