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Worked on it over the winter. Took off the Twin GT35's, bought some log manifolds off the 'net that while made for S10's, really fit well in my 96 Fbody. Welded up a hotside and cold side. Using two Tial Wastegates since I have the divided housing. Forcefed convinced me to use a 2.25 hotside piping to feed the T6 flange. I'll be running E85 this summer. Also installed a Summit stage 2 Turbo cam. She fired up on the first try. Had to address a faulty power steering line I fabbed up but other than that, I'm really pleased. She has a bit of a lope now when the A/F meter indicates 14.5:1 on the 93 octane still in the tank. Right now, the exhaust transitions from 5" to 4" to 3" on the Borla Catback but I have a 3.5" Electric cutout that will be coming off the 4" downpipe to a fender exit.
Last edited by mightyquickz28; Apr 18, 2021 at 07:00 AM.
Worked on it over the winter. Took off the Twin GT35's, bought some log manifolds off the 'net that while made for S10's, really fit well in my 96 Fbody. Welded up a hotside and cold side. Using two Tial Wastegates since I have the divided housing. Forcefed convinced me to use a 2.25 hotside piping to feed the T6 flange. I'll be running E85 this summer. Also installed a Summit stage 2 Turbo cam. She fired up on the first try. Had to address a faulty power steering line I fabbed up but other than that, I'm really pleased. She has a bit of a lope now when the A/F meter indicates 14.5:1 on the 93 octane still in the tank. Right now, the exhaust transitions from 5" to 4" to 3" on the Borla Catback but I have a 3.5" Electric cutout that will be coming off the 4" downpipe to a fender exit.
I do but it's on my phone. I tried to upload it from my Android but it says it's not a support media type. How have you guys been getting phone created video onto this site?
Hope to find out soon. Just rebuilt the engine over the winter too so I'm breaking it in. I've seen some TotalSeal Piston ring techs say we don't have to baby the engines during break in anymore since the metal and ring technologies have improved/advanced so much over the years. They say that anywhere from 40 to 80 miles is good enough and that you need to 'seat the rings' by putting some load on them during the break-in. Good news.
Yesterday, I drove it around a little, still being somewhat cautious, watching coolant temps, oil pressure, pulling over every so many miles to check for leaks, smoke, etc. Snuck up on about 5psi at the end of the day, data logging, pulling over to update the tune , driving some more.. I'm going over at lunch (it's across the street in a storage facility) to get under it to re-check driveshaft u-joint nuts at the differential, trans cross member, all other bolts/nuts. Just to be sure everything is staying tight.
I haven't got over 52% throttle yet. At just 43% Throttle Position and 3,176 RPM, it's starting to see the beginning of boost.
IS that intake really that bad? If the center of the turbo is the only area really "sucking" air in and not the surge port... Do you really need a mammoth 6" pipe on the inlet of the turbo? Or could you size the intake pipe to the minor blade size of 80mm? Which is only 3.14". So Im assuming that's 4" there? Isn't that technically enough? if the charge around the surge ports are just recirculating? is a massive inlet pipe needed?
I'm asking BTW... I have no idea.
I have seen back to back dyno pulls with that rubber 90* bend on the TB removed and replaced with a nice transition of 3.5" pick up 40whp on an 850whp setup. I was pretty surprised by that.
IS that intake really that bad? If the center of the turbo is the only area really "sucking" air in and not the surge port... Do you really need a mammoth 6" pipe on the inlet of the turbo? Or could you size the intake pipe to the minor blade size of 80mm? Which is only 3.14". So Im assuming that's 4" there? Isn't that technically enough? if the charge around the surge ports are just recirculating? is a massive inlet pipe needed?
I'm asking BTW... I have no idea.
I have seen back to back dyno pulls with that rubber 90* bend on the TB removed and replaced with a nice transition of 3.5" pick up 40whp on an 850whp setup. I was pretty surprised by that.
Thanks Forcefed for adding some context. I wasn't sure what the prior comment was about. I bought a huge 5.5" inlet K&N filter for the turbo but didn't count on the radiator pipe in my mock ups. So, I put that 4" tube and reducer on there. I take it from what you're saying that the reducer is masking or covering up the surge port? I can weld up an aluminum transition to open to that 5.5, maybe even angle it down to clear that radiator tube.
Before putting time/effort into changing it, id get some data. Maybe run it with the hood off? Try your intake setup now. Then try an open 6" 90 facing up maybe? Hvac piping works well for this. It has joints and is cheap. you can shape it how you need and glass over it. The 6" alum piping is ridiculous $
Will be hard to get good comparison data if one setup is sucking hot air form the radiator and the other is not. Im actually wondering if what you have is fine, and many are OVER intake piping the big single setups. I'm not sure you need more than a 4" inlet in terms of flow for an 80mm turbo. I'm just not sure how that funky reducer will effect airflow and the surge ports. Let us know what you find, I'm curious!
Thats 5" alum dryer duct. Once glassed, I could stand on it. Plenty strong.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Apr 7, 2021 at 09:06 AM.
Before putting time/effort into changing it, id get some data. Maybe run it with the hood off? Try your intake setup now. Then try an open 6" 90 facing up maybe? Hvac piping works well for this. It has joints and is cheap. you can shape it how you need and glass over it. The 6" alum piping is ridiculous $
Will be hard to get good comparison data if one setup is sucking hot air form the radiator and the other is not. Im actually wondering if what you have is fine, and many are OVER intake piping the big single setups. I'm not sure you need more than a 4" inlet in terms of flow for an 80mm turbo. I'm just not sure how that funky reducer will effect airflow and the surge ports. Let us know what you find, I'm curious!
Thats 5" alum dryer duct. Once glassed, I could stand on it. Plenty strong.
Thanks, I'll see what I can find. The local track, LEBANON VALLEY, opens later this month.
I went online , looking for some straight 5.5" aluminum tube. Found some and it's ordered, along with a 5.5" silicone coupler. When it gets here, I'll measure out what distance I need to dip below the radiator tube and then pie cut some welds
I've been taking her out daily and driving like to/from the local track. Just trying to get some miles on her and making sure she's dependable, not leaking, etc. I have the 4 port mac valve hooked up to my AEM Tru Boost and had it to the 'OFF' setting (running spring only). Pressing the throttle from 60 to 80% Throttle Position, it would get up to 7.x psi and that'd be it. Today at lunch I took her out and set the TruBoost to setting 'A'. I don't remember from the past year where the duty cycle was set but it was the more aggressive setting between 'A' and 'B'. I went out to a unoccupied section of the local highway and, keeping her in 3rd (TH350) just pressed down the gas pedal, starting at 2,764 RPM. I went to about 96% ( about 9 psi and 4,109 rpm at that point) throttle, then backed off just a bit to 84% (19 psi at 5,129 rpm) at that point) before letting off.
Everything was stable, no popped couplers, no leaks. Engine temps still below the first 1/4 mark on the gauge. IAT was 75 degrees at peak KPA(229).. Advance was 13 degrees at peak KPA. The duty cycle on my Bosh 127# was 58% at peak KPA
I'll drain the last bit of 93 octane sometime between tonight and Sunday, fill her up with E85, swap the tune and restart the fine tuning again.
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Got the VS Racing S480 clone installed. 
