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Too much back pressure?

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Old 05-20-2021, 11:54 AM
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I had a well known tuner tell me that he had tuned a 5.3 with the exact same turbos. At 7psi the back pressure was 1.6:1.

when he swapped to the .82 ar it went to 1.2:1 and picked up 40whp
Old 05-20-2021, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
This is my .63AR GT35 T3 next the ".83AR" 72/68"
hard to say but I think my housings are smaller. They are really thin on top

fyi love the videos. If you guys ever come by Kelowna let me know.

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Old 05-20-2021, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Fallguy
I had a well known tuner tell me that he had tuned a 5.3 with the exact same turbos. At 7psi the back pressure was 1.6:1.

when he swapped to the .82 ar it went to 1.2:1 and picked up 40whp
Much the same, I saw a 5.3L go from a 88/96 to a 102/112 turbine wheel with a 100+hp gain, backpressure is a bitch!

Old 05-20-2021, 12:50 PM
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If you have an aftermarket ECU a 0-100psi transducer is $16 on Amazon. Def worth the $. Either way, as seen guys are making silly power... regardless of back pressure readings.

Also fwiw here are the numbers at lower boost levels.

727/882 @ 22
624/796 @ 20
630/737 @ 17
573/674 @ 14
Old 05-20-2021, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
Much the same, I saw a 5.3L go from a 88/96 to a 102/112 turbine wheel with a 100+hp gain, backpressure is a bitch!

what Power and psi was that at?
Old 05-20-2021, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
If you have an aftermarket ECU a 0-100psi transducer is $16 on Amazon. Def worth the $. Either way, as seen guys are making silly power... regardless of back pressure readings.

Also fwiw here are the numbers at lower boost levels.

727/882 @ 22
624/796 @ 20
630/737 @ 17
573/674 @ 14
Sub 20hp gains per lb isn't great. Better off skipping the baby $200 turbos and getting a single $400 turbo at that point, make 100-150hp more than those units on a good bit less boost.
Old 05-20-2021, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Fallguy
what Power and psi was that at?
Roughly 1025whp@20PSI.
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Old 05-20-2021, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SLOW SEDAN
Sub 20hp gains per lb isn't great. Better off skipping the baby $200 turbos and getting a single $400 turbo at that point, make 100-150hp more than those units on a good bit less boost.
I agree, lots of better options. Depending on goals though, those are a pretty great value. I was thinking more along the lines of comparing power at boost levels similar to what the OP ran.

At that time, those cast baby GT3582's were $109 shipped! Pretty great value for turbos capable of 500+ crank each. The T4 versions do better on power, but the response isn't there.

I always wanted to do 3 of them just to be different. Cheapest set ive seen these days is $129 shipped.
Old 05-20-2021, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
I always wanted to do 3 of them just to be different. Cheapest set ive seen these days is $129 shipped.
here I am rocking 1200$ Precision’s 😕
While I was swapping the housings I went to rebuild them. Apparently these steel thrust bearings aren’t the best idea. So it’s an upgrade to go copper.



Old 05-20-2021, 03:14 PM
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That was kind of my point, those little bad boys should be putting out some power! Should be MUCH more efficient than the baby GT3582 china clones. I'd check your cranking compression. Ensure plugs are gapped way down at .015 or less and see if makes a difference. Something seems "off". I don't think it's a bad thing you went larger on the housings. Hope it solves your issues. Just bacuase china says .063 T3 def doesn't mean it specs out to that. While I'd assume precisions are accurate in sizing.
Old 05-20-2021, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
That was kind of my point, those little bad boys should be putting out some power! Should be MUCH more efficient than the baby GT3582 china clones. I'd check your cranking compression. Ensure plugs are gapped way down at .015 or less and see if makes a difference. Something seems "off". I don't think it's a bad thing you went larger on the housings. Hope it solves your issues. Just bacuase china says .063 T3 def doesn't mean it specs out to that. While I'd assume precisions are accurate in sizing.


I hope it’s just the housings lol. But it could be something else. I’m running BR7ES factory gap at .024
Old 05-26-2021, 08:07 PM
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Don’t know how accurate the tester was but 175psi on all 8 cly

also installed the new housings.



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Old 05-27-2021, 11:46 AM
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Looks good, looking forward to new numbers!
Old 06-01-2021, 08:49 PM
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Went back to the dyno. 13psi made 477 with the old housings. This time 535whp

and at 16-17psi it made 594whp

Not too sure if the pump fuel has much more in it for me.




Old 06-01-2021, 09:08 PM
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Very impressive gains! That is fantastic. That is one really impressive car.

You know, looking at the torque rise in your dyno plot with the old turbine housing, it looks like you gave up very little on spool response. After driving it around off the dyno, how does it feel on transient response compared to the old housing?
Old 06-01-2021, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Deude_Mann
Very impressive gains! That is fantastic. That is one really impressive car.

You know, looking at the torque rise in your dyno plot with the old turbine housing, it looks like you gave up very little on spool response. After driving it around off the dyno, how does it feel on transient response compared to the old housing?
it did drop some. The car has 3.15 gears in it so it’s noticeable. But with the higher boost it hits harder now. I’m working on getting a Ford IRS 8.8 in the rear.
Old 06-01-2021, 09:48 PM
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FWIW - I have a Ford 8.8 in my LS1 Miata. It uses a Ford Explorer aluminum IRS housing, and an Allison Truetrac differential, with a 3.55 R&P. The Truetrac is a very worthy differential for street or track. People even drag race with them. I am very happy with mine.

The limited slip Getrags are another good option. A friend of mine has one in his dedicated road race LS Miata, and does well with it on the track.
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Old 06-01-2021, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Deude_Mann
FWIW - I have a Ford 8.8 in my LS1 Miata. It uses a Ford Explorer aluminum IRS housing, and an Allison Truetrac differential, with a 3.55 R&P. The Truetrac is a very worthy differential for street or track. People even drag race with them. I am very happy with mine.

The limited slip Getrags are another good option. A friend of mine has one in his dedicated road race LS Miata, and does well with it on the track.
im on the fence on helical or clutch style. I hear if you break a helical style it can lock up bad. Don’t know how true that is.
Old 06-02-2021, 09:09 AM
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Why does boost / tq seem so laggy? Not hating on you or car!

I had a tune that looked like this before and turned out the timing was super low on the bottom end going up to like 4psi. Got it retuned by someone else and he said need low end timing to get turbos going. Car is 600+ tq by 4000rpm now. Night and day. Same setup but diff tuners.
Old 06-02-2021, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Z32_5.3
Why does boost / tq seem so laggy? Not hating on you or car!

I had a tune that looked like this before and turned out the timing was super low on the bottom end going up to like 4psi. Got it retuned by someone else and he said need low end timing to get turbos going. Car is 600+ tq by 4000rpm now. Night and day. Same setup but diff tuners.
could be the way I have my boost control setup, I think we added timing down low and it didn’t pick up much.

I’ll take a look.


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