Meth injection after throttle body
The point being the pump shouldn't be limited at his current power levels on E50. So it *should* have room to turn up pressure. Assuming there isn't a restriction somewhere.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
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From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Ya I think my hp loss from crank to wheel is more than a turbo. That is some of it and possibly the bung in the tank. I’ve got -12 from tank to pump no pre filter. Magnafuels post pump filter. -8 from filter to Y then -8 into both rails to regulator. Then -8 from regulator to stock feed as return. Duty cycle is 90-92 percent at 7200 rpm at 20 psi boost. I do run low 11’s on the afr scale in boost also. I’ll probably back that down a touch to 11.5 when meth gets added.
Canceled the Weiand order probably going to order the BTR tonight. I’ll put it together and get the tune close without meth and see how everything does.
Still want to add a dual nozzle meth. One 12” before iat and the other in the front on the intake just after throttle body. Just a small amount for cooling and to take a little pressure off my fuel system.
I do plug filters often. They always look clean and debris free but have a wax like substance every few months.
Canceled the Weiand order probably going to order the BTR tonight. I’ll put it together and get the tune close without meth and see how everything does.
Still want to add a dual nozzle meth. One 12” before iat and the other in the front on the intake just after throttle body. Just a small amount for cooling and to take a little pressure off my fuel system.
I do plug filters often. They always look clean and debris free but have a wax like substance every few months.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
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From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
For what its worth, I also put a 50 psi pressure switch in my actual feed line right at the nozzle and run that to an LED. When the kit is active and I have 50 psi of pressure spraying at the nozzle, I see the LED on. It's basically a quick and dirty way to guarantee that you have meth flow.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
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From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
This is the one I was looking at. I assumed it was adjustable. Seems pretty robust.https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-sw76575
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IT would be curious to ask @Summitracing about it. It looks like they quote 2 different rpm ranges but only the TB appears different.
The Short runner intake have their place, but for 90% of folks that aren't turning much over 7k or have a converter under 4500-we lean toward long runner plastic intakes. Fast 102 or Dorman LS2 type intakes make great area under the curve and are a solid choice for most folks. The MSD starts to look better in the 5500-7500 range and still fits under a lot of hoods. The sheetmetal's are really a drag piece where 25+ lbs of boost pressure or nitrous backfire damage is a consideration. The advertised power range on intakes is dependent on what the manufacturer considers it to be and that's subjective unfortunately.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Went ahead and ordered the Btr equalizer 1 intake off summit along with rails and throttle body adapter. I’m using tall ls1 injectors, but it’s unclear if that intake needs the larger ls3 style o rings so I went ahead and ordered them as well just in case to avoid additional down time.
Put the meth stuff in my wish list for now. I should be able to put some timing back in down low to offset some of the low rpm loss with that intake.
Put the meth stuff in my wish list for now. I should be able to put some timing back in down low to offset some of the low rpm loss with that intake.
https://www.plastic-mart.com/product...ank-sp002-5-rt
Nozzles push lock fittings and line can be had dirt cheap on ebay.
Same nozzles alky shops charge $25-35 for you can get for $5.
http://www.greatplainsupply.com/en/n...zzles-do1.html
Thats a great switch and its adjustable. Pop the rubber tip off and theres an allen head screw. Hobbs is another great pressure switch brand, looks very similar. Just make sure the pressure range goes well above 4psi. I don't activate my single on point kits till higher boost levels, tends to bog at low boost.
Surflo 8000 series pumps or similar can be had for around 100-110 and put out 150psi or so. No need to buy a vendor "kit" pump. But I have had good luck with devils own recirc 300psi pumps. One of the few that have a flow vs pressure chart as well. Basically the same cost as the AEM and put out more pressure/flow.
You need to be really confident in your check valve if you are installing post TB. I wouldnt suggest it. Check valves fail pretty frequently. You can hydro lock the engine if you aren't careful. The pumps themselves have a check valve as well.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
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From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
I've been running pumps higher than the WMI reservoirs for years with no issue. As long as it's primed you'll be fine. Obvious try to fit the pump below if possible but I wouldn't say it's mandatory.
Most of the pumps even state "self priming". The washer reservoir works well. Having the low fluid light is a bonus as well. I like having 2+ gallons and a big filler lid tho. Looks like you have a lot of room in that trunk/fuel pump area.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
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From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Yep tons of room and easier work space in the trunk. Up front has the benefit of already having the washer tank there as well as shorter lines for both meth and vacuum source is nearby.
I hate the trunk for having to run the line through/under the car. The pump itself has a check valve, so once primed its not bad. Also if you run more than 50% meth I dont like having flammable stuff spraying on my windshield... or in the engine bay if possible. I do like a check valve right on the nozzle. Stops it from dribbling after the pump turns off. Also don't like it active on the burnout.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,265
Likes: 671
From: Oskaloosa, Iowa
Windshield washer reservoir is directly in front of the passenger front tire. Easy to get to by just removing the wheel or having it completely turned possibly. ddnspider is going to frown upon this, but I removed the AC completely as well as the front sway bar over the winter. So I may have room with a very short line to mount the pump horizontally if that works. From there another very short line to where ever I want to go on the intake post intercooler.
What is the best thing for tapping the reservoir without removing it? I couldn't get to the inside of it if I wanted to anyway due to the long skinny filler neck. I'm liking this idea now. Same pressure switch and relay setup with the cheaper nozzles linked above and the windshield reservoir idea with a single nozzle pre iat seems much simpler and cheaper than my original plan.
What is the best thing for tapping the reservoir without removing it? I couldn't get to the inside of it if I wanted to anyway due to the long skinny filler neck. I'm liking this idea now. Same pressure switch and relay setup with the cheaper nozzles linked above and the windshield reservoir idea with a single nozzle pre iat seems much simpler and cheaper than my original plan.