spark plug help
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Likes: 9
spark plug help im running a 5.3 ls around 20 psi and using ngk br7ef plugs in it.I had another racer suggest going to a 8 but cant find the number for the 8 in ngk.At least I cant find any ngk br8ef plugs..Would love a cross reference or opinion on the plug number..thank you
They arent listed that way as they are not "resisted" plugs. To go to a resisted plug you either need to spend a fortune on iridium plug, or go to a resisted boot and run standard 8 heat range plugs.
iridium drop in's are TR8IX or NGK 3691
Standard 8 heat range recessed pugs are B8EFS NGK 1049
I use the boots and REALLY like them. They literally screw onto your wire so install is a breeze and there is a defined snap when installing them on the plug. They are also hard plastic as opposed to the soft rubber junk. I use standard OEM style wires, nothing fancy there. A lot of interference and VR signal issues (crank/cam sensor) can come from using the large diameter poorly insulated wires.
NGK 8031 Spark Plug Boot Cap
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33384806556...kAAOSwpbpf9NiM
iridium drop in's are TR8IX or NGK 3691
Standard 8 heat range recessed pugs are B8EFS NGK 1049
I use the boots and REALLY like them. They literally screw onto your wire so install is a breeze and there is a defined snap when installing them on the plug. They are also hard plastic as opposed to the soft rubber junk. I use standard OEM style wires, nothing fancy there. A lot of interference and VR signal issues (crank/cam sensor) can come from using the large diameter poorly insulated wires.
NGK 8031 Spark Plug Boot Cap
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33384806556...kAAOSwpbpf9NiM
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Likes: 9
They arent listed that way as they are not "resisted" plugs. To go to a resisted plug you either need to spend a fortune on iridium plug, or go to a resisted boot and run standard 8 heat range plugs.
iridium drop in's are TR8IX or NGK 3691
Standard 8 heat range recessed pugs are B8EFS NGK 1049
I use the boots and REALLY like them. They literally screw onto your wire so install is a breeze and there is a defined snap when installing them on the plug. They are also hard plastic as opposed to the soft rubber junk. I use standard OEM style wires, nothing fancy there. A lot of interference and VR signal issues (crank/cam sensor) can come from using the large diameter poorly insulated wires.
NGK 8031 Spark Plug Boot Cap
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33384806556...kAAOSwpbpf9NiM
iridium drop in's are TR8IX or NGK 3691
Standard 8 heat range recessed pugs are B8EFS NGK 1049
I use the boots and REALLY like them. They literally screw onto your wire so install is a breeze and there is a defined snap when installing them on the plug. They are also hard plastic as opposed to the soft rubber junk. I use standard OEM style wires, nothing fancy there. A lot of interference and VR signal issues (crank/cam sensor) can come from using the large diameter poorly insulated wires.
NGK 8031 Spark Plug Boot Cap
https://www.ebay.com/itm/33384806556...kAAOSwpbpf9NiM
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Likes: 9
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Likes: 9
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Meth/water plays hell on the 2 step when it comes on and off in my experience. The nozzle dribbling after its shut off can be annoying and then some as well. What ever you launch at boost wise, I'd set it over that point so it doesn't' come on when staging. You likely don't need it until 2-3 sec into the run. I feel you could have it kick on at 20 and you'd still be fine. The higher you have the turn on point the less likely you are to bog at healthy amounts. Also you don't need to be super rich with meth on top. I'd set it at a conservative 11.0-11.5 with no meth. (not sure how rich you have it) Progressive is honestly the way to go... but not practical for all. What ECU? Can you just PWM the meth pump?
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Likes: 9
Meth/water plays hell on the 2 step when it comes on and off in my experience. The nozzle dribbling after its shut off can be annoying and then some as well. What ever you launch at boost wise, I'd set it over that point so it doesn't' come on when staging. You likely don't need it until 2-3 sec into the run. I feel you could have it kick on at 20 and you'd still be fine. The higher you have the turn on point the less likely you are to bog at healthy amounts. Also you don't need to be super rich with meth on top. I'd set it at a conservative 11.0-11.5 with no meth. (not sure how rich you have it) Progressive is honestly the way to go... but not practical for all. What ECU? Can you just PWM the meth pump?
For comparison, my plugs look almost new after a pass on E85. Zero soot/black. No real visible fuel line either. Nickle plating is all still shiny and new aside from the strap. Do you have a WB02?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 131
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I have 2 sets of new number 8 plugs that just came in so will warm them up with current plugs and tow the car to the lanes.Shut if off after pass and check them then..Just havent been as smooth lately as I like.I have had the timing all over the place and put meth etc on it and no matter what I do I cant seem to keep the ls engines sealed.I always push alittle water so I was thinking maybe to lean even though the wideband says im ok..Im going to be really diligent on the plugs next time out..
.70 is 10.3 on gas scale. That's beyond the peak rich power window for E85. I'm not saying you'll pick up 50 hp, but there's really no reason to go richer than 10.8 or .75 or so with E85 IMO. Factor in the meth and your likely around 10.1: ratio. Defiantly too rich. Its extremlyhard to read the fuel line on an ethanol plug. Most rely on the WB02 for this.
Your also not spraying much meth at all IMO. I'd step up to your biggest Meth nozzle, what ever that may be and have it kick on at higher boost levels to eliminate "bog". Target about 11.5:1 (.78 ish) AFR on E85 with no meth. I forget this isn't always the easiest for carb guys. Its 2 clicks for us EFI guys.
What I like to do is get a read on all 8. Find your leanest cylinder, and just swap plugs out of that cylinder. No reason to waste 8 plugs every time to get a read IMO. I pop one new plug in before a run and setup my timing table off my hottest cylinder. (oddly enough #4 in my case)
IF you are pushing water I'd dial back the timing at PK TQ. That's where your cyl pressures will be the highest. I don't put diddly for timing in my stuff until 5500+ RPM wise. much better off adding another 2lbs and dropping 3-5* out of it until its dialed in and not pushing water IMO. Personally I'd pull timing until it didn't push water. Then slowly add boost up top.
Good luck! hope you get it sorted! Sounds like there is a lot left in it. Always curious to see how the hot air stuff runs.
Your also not spraying much meth at all IMO. I'd step up to your biggest Meth nozzle, what ever that may be and have it kick on at higher boost levels to eliminate "bog". Target about 11.5:1 (.78 ish) AFR on E85 with no meth. I forget this isn't always the easiest for carb guys. Its 2 clicks for us EFI guys.
What I like to do is get a read on all 8. Find your leanest cylinder, and just swap plugs out of that cylinder. No reason to waste 8 plugs every time to get a read IMO. I pop one new plug in before a run and setup my timing table off my hottest cylinder. (oddly enough #4 in my case)
IF you are pushing water I'd dial back the timing at PK TQ. That's where your cyl pressures will be the highest. I don't put diddly for timing in my stuff until 5500+ RPM wise. much better off adding another 2lbs and dropping 3-5* out of it until its dialed in and not pushing water IMO. Personally I'd pull timing until it didn't push water. Then slowly add boost up top.
Good luck! hope you get it sorted! Sounds like there is a lot left in it. Always curious to see how the hot air stuff runs.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Likes: 9
.70 is 10.3 on gas scale. That's beyond the peak rich power window for E85. I'm not saying you'll pick up 50 hp, but there's really no reason to go richer than 10.8 or .75 or so with E85 IMO. Factor in the meth and your likely around 10.1: ratio. Defiantly too rich. Its extremlyhard to read the fuel line on an ethanol plug. Most rely on the WB02 for this.
Your also not spraying much meth at all IMO. I'd step up to your biggest Meth nozzle, what ever that may be and have it kick on at higher boost levels to eliminate "bog". Target about 11.5:1 (.78 ish) AFR on E85 with no meth. I forget this isn't always the easiest for carb guys. Its 2 clicks for us EFI guys.
What I like to do is get a read on all 8. Find your leanest cylinder, and just swap plugs out of that cylinder. No reason to waste 8 plugs every time to get a read IMO. I pop one new plug in before a run and setup my timing table off my hottest cylinder. (oddly enough #4 in my case)
IF you are pushing water I'd dial back the timing at PK TQ. That's where your cyl pressures will be the highest. I don't put diddly for timing in my stuff until 5500+ RPM wise. much better off adding another 2lbs and dropping 3-5* out of it until its dialed in and not pushing water IMO. Personally I'd pull timing until it didn't push water. Then slowly add boost up top.
Good luck! hope you get it sorted! Sounds like there is a lot left in it. Always curious to see how the hot air stuff runs.
Your also not spraying much meth at all IMO. I'd step up to your biggest Meth nozzle, what ever that may be and have it kick on at higher boost levels to eliminate "bog". Target about 11.5:1 (.78 ish) AFR on E85 with no meth. I forget this isn't always the easiest for carb guys. Its 2 clicks for us EFI guys.
What I like to do is get a read on all 8. Find your leanest cylinder, and just swap plugs out of that cylinder. No reason to waste 8 plugs every time to get a read IMO. I pop one new plug in before a run and setup my timing table off my hottest cylinder. (oddly enough #4 in my case)
IF you are pushing water I'd dial back the timing at PK TQ. That's where your cyl pressures will be the highest. I don't put diddly for timing in my stuff until 5500+ RPM wise. much better off adding another 2lbs and dropping 3-5* out of it until its dialed in and not pushing water IMO. Personally I'd pull timing until it didn't push water. Then slowly add boost up top.
Good luck! hope you get it sorted! Sounds like there is a lot left in it. Always curious to see how the hot air stuff runs.