New turbo and smoke
Feed pressure to high, stock pump with out a restriction recommended by VS racing
Not draining properly -10AN level is level ish to the pan
Bad turbo
Any other possible causes for excessive smoke, crank case pressure at idle would this even be possible?
its my first time so excuse my ignorance
https://huronspeed.com/wp-content/up...tall-Guide.pdf page 2 of that guide
The drain line in the kit was way to long I tried to loop it in front of the turbo but it wasn't that long. The line is looped at the pan its parallel with the ground but the elbow points to the rear of the car and does 180 turn then back to the front where the turbo is. Again I'm new with turbo's is this just a dumb way of doing this?
I have about 6 weeks to work the bugs out of this before I tear it down and redo the motor for more boost, I'm going to run 5lbs for the fall season.
1. Pressure drop thru the brg hsg...You have no where near 60psi after the turbo.
2. Do a bit of reading... Drain lines are not "looped".
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A 24+ inch oil return line probably needs to have the turbo side on that hose at lease 3" higher than the oil pan side with 0 slack in the line. It's preferred to have greater than 45 degrees of slope back to the engine...
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he was trying to use the same size line in and out.. (-4)The drain tube is the "settling" can or windage control for the drain back.
-10 IMHO is marginal.. I use -12 and like mentioned above NO horizontal or uphill of any amount.. On a big power setup I have had to use -15 and dedicated a scavenge stage from the dry sump to the two turbos.
Also if you run it much that way you will thrash the bearing. The bearing is deathly dependent on the oil blowing though it to cool.
Need for the restrictor is not a automatic yes or no decision, it depends on oil volume being fed to the turbo, so your engine build, oil pump, oil pressure , all play in to it.
And the restrictors come in sizes for a reason...

I'm not a "turbo guy" at all but I've worked on a ton of cars with them at the track and your finding the like #1 issue I've seen that cause turbo issues, poor drain and over oiling.
BTW I do road race and Sprint cars.. Not much drag race experience..
he was trying to use the same size line in and out.. (-4)The drain tube is the "settling" can or windage control for the drain back.
-10 IMHO is marginal.. I use -12 and like mentioned above NO horizontal or uphill of any amount.. On a big power setup I have had to use -15 and dedicated a scavenge stage from the dry sump to the two turbos.
Also if you run it much that way you will thrash the bearing. The bearing is deathly dependent on the oil blowing though it to cool.
Need for the restrictor is not a automatic yes or no decision, it depends on oil volume being fed to the turbo, so your engine build, oil pump, oil pressure , all play in to it.
And the restrictors come in sizes for a reason...

I'm not a "turbo guy" at all but I've worked on a ton of cars with them at the track and your finding the like #1 issue I've seen that cause turbo issues, poor drain and over oiling.
BTW I do road race and Sprint cars.. Not much drag race experience..
)I also installed some high temp yellow pex just for dyno run so we could watch on a bigger engine, once we got the motor warm it was pretty easy to see the bubbles build up.
In 3/4 pex they calmed quickly in 1/2 inch they kinda turned in to a mass and youd see it start backing up oil on top of the foam.
Temperature played in a lot. once your over 180 ..
We also tried some of the DOXES GM oil and it does what they say very little foam.
I have seen several cars with low mount turbos and horizontal drains with no smoking. V8 Lotus Esprits drain 90 degrees right off the turbo into the pan, no scavenge setup, with no smoking. Im not saying it will always work like that but it can be done.











