What is out there that works and doesn't cost a fortune? I found a GReddy protec, $400, I don't have any experience with them so I don't have a clue. I'm looking at CO2 or air to control the waste gates so a controller is a must. I was going with the manual but I think it would spool faster staging with a controller and compressed air or CO2. I want something consistent while racing and street wise I'd run off the spring. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

 

Cortex EBC by SIRHC Labs. You can use air with it. Has a ton of features and only costs around $450 with the Mac solenoid. It can also control nitrous or water/meth if you need that.

 

Dang, that's a good deal, thanks.

 

Checked it out, $395 for the complete kit, if you already have a solenoid, $320. On their FB page they run sales a lot. I found several U tube videos of how to set it up, it's a pretty nice piece for the price.

 

Since I am a simpleton, I prefer a simple one, LOL.
Another option for you.
I use this one:

Price has risen a bit (I paid $268), like everything else, but it's simple (IMO) to use, and also can control (by RPM or Boost) an external relay, for meth, etc.
It comes with a 3 port MAC valve, although when I converted to dual wastegates, boost numbers were erratic, and I needed to swap to a 4 port MAC.
With the 4 port, and boost measured in the charge pipe, I can make anywhere from 3# to 22.5# steady, with a pair of 4# springs
It has 2 boost tables to set. And they can be switched back and forth via the button on the controller, or an external switch, depending on how you set it.
I run on wastegate or slightly higher, when bracket racing, and use a handheld remote starter button, for my "scramble", to toggle to the much higher (2nd) boost setting....works very well for me most of the time. It also has a highest boost recall feature, as well as an overboost protection. I've already decided that even if I ever go from factory ECU, to a Holley, I'm not going to dick around with trying to make it work with that, since it works great 100% of the time, on it's own.

 

I don't see the need for an EBC when a $15 valve can get you what ever boost is needed for the most part. Spending that much on a BC makes no sense to me. You can buy a micro squirt for $340 and have BC and many other functions. Or save a little and buy a holley terminator ECU or MS3 gold box.

As far as your comment for needing CO2. I don't understand this. What boost ranges are you needing? You can build a setup that will spool just as fast as an EBC mechanically for peanuts. Either use a simple spring/ball setup with a crackign pressure of your desired boost. If you need even more range (smaller WG spring) incorporate a solenoid to the top of the WG as well. The quickest spool you can get will be no signal to the bottom port and all the boost to the top. Realistically most don't need this unless you want to run a REALLY weak WG spring. A typical 8-10lb spring is almost always all that is needed. I can run 8-30lbs with an 8lb spring.

This should improve spool and is adjustable. They work really well. Basically stay seated until your desired pressure is hit. So they keep the WG shut completely until that point.

Def. don't' need co2 for 90% of the setups. That's generally for competition use only.

 

I'm using the Cortex unit in my car as well, the unit features are many but a laptop is required.
The other big plus is tech support, I had an issue connecting my laptop to the unit and Cortex tech support responded to my email request within minutes and within 30 minutes I was up and running.

 

I'm going to start out with a manual like forcefed86 is describing but I was told they weren't consistent when you approach up around 20 lbs of boost. Not saying that's a fact or anything, just what I was told. I plan on this car seeing a lot of track time now and was just researching for the future. Thanks for the info forcefed, we will be trying this first because this is for sure a budget build. My grand daughter wants to go drag racing again so I'm going to do my best to do so.

 

Right. Except that a ball and spring setup can even work in competition. NHRA championships have been won with a ball and spring setup.

 

Def not the case. Though the overall range does depend on the plumbing. With the usual spring that is supplied in the 38-44mm gates I see 8-9lbs with the manifold boost directly to the bottom port. With no signal to the lower port and the top vented It roughly doubles that. I see 8 and 22lbs on my latest twin setup. This will vary a little depending on diaphragm/valve sizes as well as back pressure. Then if you install a bleed style to the top port you can run from 22-30 plus. But I don't run that much boost.

For a cheap street strip setup I usually have a ball valve on the lower port and a bleeder on the top. I close the ball valve at the track and add a tiny bit of pressure on top to get my usual 25ish lbs. Goes from a low 10 sec car on the street to a high 8 sec car at the track with those 2 settings.

Now I typically use a 3 port mac valve and the EBC that's built into the aftermarket ECU's. (no CO2) This allows fun stuff like boost by speed/gear etc. Still have a range of 8-30+.

 

I had an eboost street one time that worked great. Its the rectangle style and had two settings i believe you just tap the button for the high setting.

 

The Innovate SGC-1 worked well for me on my last car, was very easy to use and very cost effective.
Had good features like over boost cut and AFR boost cut.