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Now that's a great video, I had watched others but the strap wasn't easy to see and they didn't do a very good job of explaining everything.
Thank you John!
Everyone says that, and I'm sure there are instances where it's true like running straight methanol, and maybe nitrous. I call BS on real street pump gas stuff. You can't tell the fueling, but you CAN tell the timing, heat range, and signs of detonation or speckling. I don't care if the plug has 1000 miles on it you can still tell that stuff.
Here are some pics of plug #7 which from my understanding is the leanest plug and the one most guys seem to reference the most.
So if I'm reading this right, my timing is pretty close where it needs to be since the timing mark looks to be right down close to the bottom ground strap?
I didn't cut the plug in half but the porcelain was white way down towards the bottom, probably because I was a touch lean when I was making these hits, my tuner fattened up the VE table so should be happier now.
Here are some pics of plug #7 which from my understanding is the leanest plug and the one most guys seem to reference the most.
So if I'm reading this right, my timing is pretty close where it needs to be since the timing mark looks to be right down close to the bottom ground strap?
I didn't cut the plug in half but the porcelain was white way down towards the bottom, probably because I was a touch lean when I was making these hits, my tuner fattened up the VE table so should be happier now.
turn the plug 180 and give us a good shot of the porcelain.
Yep. Timing is OK and I don't see any black or Metallic speckling on the porcelain. Now check the threads and see how many threads are discolored. That'll give you an indication of plug heat range. You typically want 1 to 2 threads discolored.
Yep. Timing is OK and I don't see any black or Metallic speckling on the porcelain. Now check the threads and see how many threads are discolored. That'll give you an indication of plug heat range. You typically want 1 to 2 threads discolored.
Why is timing just OK?
According to Steve's video you want the timing mark right at the base of the strap or am I reading them wrong?
So if I wipe off the anti-seize you'll be able to see the thread discoloration?
I mean ok as in not a problem. You want it at the bend for idea timing. If timing is past the bend towards the threads it's getting too spicy.
Yes wipe off antiseize to better see discoloring of the threads for heat range.
Also, number 7 isnt automatically the worst. I typically pull them all for a baseline. Then whichever cylinder is the hottest gets the attention going forwards to save time.
I mean ok as in not a problem. You want it at the bend for idea timing. If timing is past the bend towards the threads it's getting too spicy.
Yes wipe off antiseize to better see discoloring of the threads for heat range.
Also, number 7 isnt automatically the worst. I typically pull them all for a baseline. Then whichever cylinder is the hottest gets the attention going forwards to save time.
Got it, I'm traveling for work until Friday but when I get home, I'll pull them all and take some pics.
So I'm looking for timing marks on the strap no lower than the #7 plug shown and for thread discoloration no more than 1-2 threads down.
Really appreciate the help and schooling.
And any speckling either black or shiny on the porcelain. These 3 things have kept me from blowing anything up since I started tuning like 15 years ago. And I never did it on fresh plugs no runtime.
And any speckling either black or shiny on the porcelain. These 3 things have kept me from blowing anything up since I started tuning like 15 years ago. And I never did it on fresh plugs no runtime.
Well and I don't have that option because I'm not track legal and I sure as hell aren't going to go make a hit on the street and pull over so Johnny Law can come nail me lol.
IMO when just starting out, you’d need clean plugs to read them easily. Otherwise, the electrodes have so much info on them from cruise and multiple pulls you can’t really read the peak heat well.
I know it’s a pain, but I’d buy 16 new plugs and throw them all in the car. Take all tools to change them out with you. Once you get to your “test ground” Install the 8 new plugs. And cycle the other 8 in/out of the hottest cylinder when dialing in timing.
Do a full pull with very little idle/run time and shut the car off at the end of the ¼. Pull over and pull all 8. Find the one that looks the hottest going by the strap and color. Then just cycle new plugs from that hot cylinder in the future when tuning. As mentioned #7 isn't always the hottest.
I can tell the plug you pulled wasn’t new with 1 clean pass on it. The timing mark is not clearly visible on that plug. At least not in the first pic. 2nd looks maybe half way, but again. Hard to read.
You don’t want it anywhere near the bend IMO. I’m not sure how anyone can call that “ideal” for a turbo car.
If you really want to push pump gas, lower the compression. What heads are on it now? Can you run 317’s? All the talk of “low compression” making the motor a “dog” is BS IMO. I ran my dished piston 5.3, with ls9 HG, and 317 heads. (around 8.6:1) It ran great. Sure it wasn’t a raspy or snappy out of boost. But you are talking like 4% NA hp per full point of compression! That’s like 14HP on a 350hp engine.
IMO when just starting out, you’d need clean plugs to read them easily. Otherwise, the electrodes have so much info on them from cruise and multiple pulls you can’t really read the peak heat well.
I know it’s a pain, but I’d buy 16 new plugs and throw them all in the car. Take all tools to change them out with you. Once you get to your “test ground” Install the 8 new plugs. And cycle the other 8 in/out of the hottest cylinder when dialing in timing.
Do a full pull with very little idle/run time and shut the car off at the end of the ¼. Pull over and pull all 8. Find the one that looks the hottest going by the strap and color. Then just cycle new plugs from that hot cylinder in the future when tuning. As mentioned #7 isn't always the hottest.
I can tell the plug you pulled wasn’t new with 1 clean pass on it. The timing mark is not clearly visible on that plug. At least not in the first pic. 2nd looks maybe half way, but again. Hard to read.
You don’t want it anywhere near the bend IMO. I’m not sure how anyone can call that “ideal” for a turbo car.
If you really want to push pump gas, lower the compression. What heads are on it now? Can you run 317’s? All the talk of “low compression” making the motor a “dog” is BS IMO. I ran my dished piston 5.3, with ls9 HG, and 317 heads. (around 8.6:1) It ran great. Sure it wasn’t a raspy or snappy out of boost. But you are talking like 4% NA hp per full point of compression! That’s like 14HP on a 350hp engine.
Plug swapping is really tough for me since I live in the middle of the city and my test ground is the highway so pulling over/little idling and all that isn't possible plus I have to make my hits at night when there's no traffic.
The area I live in has gotten really sketchy the last few years and last thing I want to do is pull over with the hood up at night so someone can sneak up on me.
Compression will remain the same, but I have no idea what heads are on the car as there are no markings on them, whoever CNC'd them removed all the markings I could find.
Thinking I may just stop here for pump gas and either start blending fuels or get a WMI kit.
Friends have used WMI for a lot of years, I'd suggest finding 2 folks who have done what you want and have good results.
Are you in WA state?
I'm not opposed to a WMI kit, I already have one in mind if I don't end up blending fuels.
Most everyone I know local in my group runs A2A intercoolers and E85 from a barrel in their garage.
Its looking like I'll be moving soon so I'm thinking of just stopping where I'm at and enjoying the car for the rest of the summer.
I am in WA State, just south of Seattle in Tacoma.
If ya can't plug tune, dyno time or a track visit are the best options. If you have the typical 64cc 243/799 heads a 72cc 317 would make a lot of difference tune wise and allow pump to go alot further. WMI is much easier than blending, but distribution is janky at best. Esp. with OEM manifolds and a single spray point pre TB.
In your situation I’d def add a water/meth kit. But I’d make it a DIY small volume "single on point" kit. No reason to pay $500+ for kits that are a glorified washer pump spraying very little fluid with a boost switch. You can build your own for $200ish. Or less if you use a china pump. I’d run 7-10gph of washer fluid max. Make your own 50/50 using 2 bottles of HEET in 1 gal of -30 washer fluid.
That alone will get you a few psi safely IMO. As well as a little safety margin in the tune up. Then mix race gas or the methanol blend in if you want more boost. A 50/50 M blend is some powerful stuff if you have the fuel system to pull it off. Direct port meth injection or a 16 injector setup is also an option.
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