Projected horsepower
Burning plug wires is sort of an initiation into aftermarket turbo systems, lol. There is always an unexpected extra heat shield or wire sleeve needed somewhere. The best way to tell if you would be able to learn tuning on your own would probably involve downloading the HPtuners software and looking at the many youtube videos they have on how to use it. If you have a good basic understanding of air/fuel ratios and how engines work in general you should have no problem. Even though there are hundreds of parameters that can be adjusted, only a few of them will be relevant to merely turning up the boost or making minor hardware changes. Just remember that full tuning capabilities also allow you to fully fubar things if you aren't careful.
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Burning plug wires is sort of an initiation into aftermarket turbo systems, lol. There is always an unexpected extra heat shield or wire sleeve needed somewhere. The best way to tell if you would be able to learn tuning on your own would probably involve downloading the HPtuners software and looking at the many youtube videos they have on how to use it. If you have a good basic understanding of air/fuel ratios and how engines work in general you should have no problem. Even though there are hundreds of parameters that can be adjusted, only a few of them will be relevant to merely turning up the boost or making minor hardware changes. Just remember that full tuning capabilities also allow you to fully fubar things if you aren't careful.
Your tuning options depends on what PCM your truck uses. I did not see what year on this or your other post. I may have overlooked it. The different computers all have different limits that you may or may not hit, as well as different custom operating systems available through HPtuners and EFIlive. The P01 and P59 computers also have some freeware options, but that is a whole different level of less user friendly learning curve. Also, wrong changes to engine tuning can have transmission implications that can bite you in the ***.
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Your tuning options depends on what PCM your truck uses. I did not see what year on this or your other post. I may have overlooked it. The different computers all have different limits that you may or may not hit, as well as different custom operating systems available through HPtuners and EFIlive. The P01 and P59 computers also have some freeware options, but that is a whole different level of less user friendly learning curve. Also, wrong changes to engine tuning can have transmission implications that can bite you in the ***.
Most tuners wouldn't tell you you can't turn your car up because the maf is maxed is all I was saying. Esp. if you have already got the MAP on there. Calibrate for a 3 bar map and go to town.
Cast OEM manifolds are best by far because you don't' have to worry about plug wires or cracking. What manifolds do you have? You can dent the crap out of the tubular ones with little to no affect on power. But most are trying to run the plug boot in the wrong spot. Re route them to the bottom. I have the typical cheap manifolds used and I've never burnt a plug with this routing and 90* boots.
Billet ICT sells long plug wire relocation kits that work great.
Cast OEM manifolds are best by far because you don't' have to worry about plug wires or cracking. What manifolds do you have? You can dent the crap out of the tubular ones with little to no affect on power. But most are trying to run the plug boot in the wrong spot. Re route them to the bottom. I have the typical cheap manifolds used and I've never burnt a plug with this routing and 90* boots.
Billet ICT sells long plug wire relocation kits that work great.
Last edited by Forcefed86; Oct 23, 2023 at 09:30 AM.
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Most tuners wouldn't tell you you can't turn your car up because the maf is maxed is all I was saying. Esp. if you have already got the MAP on there. Calibrate doe a 3 bar map and go to town.
Cast OEM manifolds are best by far because you don't' have to worry about plug wires or cracking. What manifolds do you have? You can dent the crap out of the tubular ones with little to no affect on power. But most are trying to run the plug boot in the wrong spot. Re route them to the bottom. I have the typical cheap manifolds used and I've never burnt a plug with this routing and 90* boots.
Billet ICT sells long plug wire relocation kits that work great.
Cast OEM manifolds are best by far because you don't' have to worry about plug wires or cracking. What manifolds do you have? You can dent the crap out of the tubular ones with little to no affect on power. But most are trying to run the plug boot in the wrong spot. Re route them to the bottom. I have the typical cheap manifolds used and I've never burnt a plug with this routing and 90* boots.
Billet ICT sells long plug wire relocation kits that work great.
That's the thing though. If he is a tuner, it should be easy for him as well. 3 bar Senor is one bolt and easily accessed. All the changes are in software. It takes no more time to calibrate for that than anything else. Hell, you could bolt the sensor on yourself and send your ecu out for a mail in ecu flash. Had a few friends do this and it worked surprisingly well. Its just odd you have someone saying they can't run more boost because a sensor is maxed.
May have, those filters are usually pretty darn bad. OK to filter dirt for no boost street duty, but could cause a lot of power loss. I couldn't make over 9lbs with mine installed, which looked similar. But may not have been the same brand/quality. pleated filters generally have a ton more surface area is all. I know not everyone can fit a massive filter.
May have, those filters are usually pretty darn bad. OK to filter dirt for no boost street duty, but could cause a lot of power loss. I couldn't make over 9lbs with mine installed, which looked similar. But may not have been the same brand/quality. pleated filters generally have a ton more surface area is all. I know not everyone can fit a massive filter.
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That's the thing though. If he is a tuner, it should be easy for him as well. 3 bar Senor is one bolt and easily accessed. All the changes are in software. It takes no more time to calibrate for that than anything else. Hell, you could bolt the sensor on yourself and send your ecu out for a mail in ecu flash. Had a few friends do this and it worked surprisingly well. Its just odd you have someone saying they can't run more boost because a sensor is maxed.
May have, those filters are usually pretty darn bad. OK to filter dirt for no boost street duty, but could cause a lot of power loss. I couldn't make over 9lbs with mine installed, which looked similar. But may not have been the same brand/quality. pleated filters generally have a ton more surface area is all. I know not everyone can fit a massive filter.
May have, those filters are usually pretty darn bad. OK to filter dirt for no boost street duty, but could cause a lot of power loss. I couldn't make over 9lbs with mine installed, which looked similar. But may not have been the same brand/quality. pleated filters generally have a ton more surface area is all. I know not everyone can fit a massive filter.
If its at the dyno have him run it with and without the filter. See if it makes a difference. If its gonna see much street time I wouldn't run a screen. Street cars should have a filter. There are a few low profile pleated filters around that will likely flow 3x what that foam one does.
Yea somethings odd there... I'd tell him to disable the MAF and run a speed density tune. You can remove the MAF later when you have the time.
Yea somethings odd there... I'd tell him to disable the MAF and run a speed density tune. You can remove the MAF later when you have the time.
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If its at the dyno have him run it with and without the filter. See if it makes a difference. If its gonna see much street time I wouldn't run a screen. Street cars should have a filter. There are a few low profile pleated filters around that will likely flow 3x what that foam one does.
Yea somethings odd there... I'd tell him to disable the MAF and run a speed density tune. You can remove the MAF later when you have the time.
Yea somethings odd there... I'd tell him to disable the MAF and run a speed density tune. You can remove the MAF later when you have the time.
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So he's telling me the manifold I have on the truck isn't going to work. He said it's burning the boots and cracking the plugs every time he goes to make a pull. Basically that I need to put a different manifold on the truck. What do you guys think about that? I just don't understand that man, how can it be getting that hot that it's causing that.
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Really frustrating, idk what to do man. Do I have to pull this kit off and completely start over or is there something he is missing. I just don't understand how a manifold can get so hot that it cracks a spark plug
So he's telling me the manifold I have on the truck isn't going to work. He said it's burning the boots and cracking the plugs every time he goes to make a pull. Basically that I need to put a different manifold on the truck. What do you guys think about that? I just don't understand that man, how can it be getting that hot that it's causing that.
Andrew
Have any close ups of the manifold installed without the wires so we can see what the clearance is? Or link to the manifolds with pictures of them installed something else?
There is usually a way around it with a 90* boot and long wires. If there isn’t ¼ or so air gap all around, then clearance needs to be made. You can dent the crap out of the manifold with little to no performance loss. Just heat it up with a torch and use a long pry bar to clearance where needed. Some of the china manifolds are also crazy thin so the radiant heat can be pretty excessive. But if you have a decent air gap it shouldn’t be melting anything. Def. don't need to start over.
Also a chance your timing isn’t synced properly and the motors excessively retarded timing wise. That will cause the manifolds are glow excessively hot. Could be a dozen things… hard to know without being there. either way heat won't cause a plug to crack. It was cracked on installation or prior to install.
Sounds like the guy doesn’t want your money. I’d go somewhere else.
There is usually a way around it with a 90* boot and long wires. If there isn’t ¼ or so air gap all around, then clearance needs to be made. You can dent the crap out of the manifold with little to no performance loss. Just heat it up with a torch and use a long pry bar to clearance where needed. Some of the china manifolds are also crazy thin so the radiant heat can be pretty excessive. But if you have a decent air gap it shouldn’t be melting anything. Def. don't need to start over.
Also a chance your timing isn’t synced properly and the motors excessively retarded timing wise. That will cause the manifolds are glow excessively hot. Could be a dozen things… hard to know without being there. either way heat won't cause a plug to crack. It was cracked on installation or prior to install.
Sounds like the guy doesn’t want your money. I’d go somewhere else.
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Have any close ups of the manifold installed without the wires so we can see what the clearance is? Or link to the manifolds with pictures of them installed something else?
There is usually a way around it with a 90* boot and long wires. If there isn’t ¼ or so air gap all around, then clearance needs to be made. You can dent the crap out of the manifold with little to no performance loss. Just heat it up with a torch and use a long pry bar to clearance where needed. Some of the china manifolds are also crazy thin so the radiant heat can be pretty excessive. But if you have a decent air gap it shouldn’t be melting anything. Def. don't need to start over.
Also a chance your timing isn’t synced properly and the motors excessively retarded timing wise. That will cause the manifolds are glow excessively hot. Could be a dozen things… hard to know without being there. either way heat won't cause a plug to crack. It was cracked on installation or prior to install.
Sounds like the guy doesn’t want your money. I’d go somewhere else.
There is usually a way around it with a 90* boot and long wires. If there isn’t ¼ or so air gap all around, then clearance needs to be made. You can dent the crap out of the manifold with little to no performance loss. Just heat it up with a torch and use a long pry bar to clearance where needed. Some of the china manifolds are also crazy thin so the radiant heat can be pretty excessive. But if you have a decent air gap it shouldn’t be melting anything. Def. don't need to start over.
Also a chance your timing isn’t synced properly and the motors excessively retarded timing wise. That will cause the manifolds are glow excessively hot. Could be a dozen things… hard to know without being there. either way heat won't cause a plug to crack. It was cracked on installation or prior to install.
Sounds like the guy doesn’t want your money. I’d go somewhere else.
I can't open these files but Maybe you can, this is suppose to be the tune files. Man I went back and forth all morning and he swears its the manifolds, he said its only happening on number 7&4 and that if it had half an inch more that it would of probably been ok. He says the flanges are welded to close to the 90s. Everyone I've talked to tell me differently but I'm now stuck with a Truck I have to tow home and a 3000 dollar bill
I wouldn't expect any issues from the driverside, just the passenger side.
Get some good ceramic wires like the Accel units and some heat sleeves and start there, make sure the manifold is well wrapped and hell you may need to wrap it twice.
Maybe buy a custom wire set and run them to the rear of the engine and the down around the back of the engine and back up to the front from underneath.
That would keep the wires away from any close heat sources and be pretty cheap and easy to do.
Remove the problem plugs. Then get a map gas torch and a crowbar. Go to town on the area that needs more clearance. A ¼ gap all around is all that’s needed. Heat sleeves and wrap work great, but you still need a 1/4“ gap at minimum IMO. If the boot touchs the manifold, they will burn up. I’d assume tight 90’s pointing down are what you will need. That does look like a tricky manifold though!. You can also use a metal coat hangar fixed to the wire to ensure it goes where you need it and stays there.
Wouldn’t be able to tell anything from his tune files. It’s the mechanical timing between where the engine actually is VS where the ECU thinks it is. Would need a piston stop to find TDC. Mark the balancer. Then use an adjustable timing light to see where the time actually VS what the ECU is commanding. I’ve had motors be as much as 12* off. So when the ECU is commanding say 15* its actually at 3*. But since you are using the OEM ECU, thats likely not your issue. I’d try clearance first.
Wouldn’t be able to tell anything from his tune files. It’s the mechanical timing between where the engine actually is VS where the ECU thinks it is. Would need a piston stop to find TDC. Mark the balancer. Then use an adjustable timing light to see where the time actually VS what the ECU is commanding. I’ve had motors be as much as 12* off. So when the ECU is commanding say 15* its actually at 3*. But since you are using the OEM ECU, thats likely not your issue. I’d try clearance first.
