Projected horsepower
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From: Louisiana
Live and learn brother, usually raising the 2-step rpm is an easy way to raise the boost amount as well.
My car will make 5-6 lbs. on the 2-step at 3,000 rpm with an S484 turbo so you should have no issues.
I've been told as you raise the rpm, the boost increases as well so I'm curious to try it and see.
My car will make 5-6 lbs. on the 2-step at 3,000 rpm with an S484 turbo so you should have no issues.
I've been told as you raise the rpm, the boost increases as well so I'm curious to try it and see.
I'm running the MSD 2-step, it doesn't retard timing, my tune isn't adjusted for it to my knowledge, and it seems to work just fine.
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From: Louisiana
the lnc2000 has the option to retard the timing, if I'm not building boost on the line at 2800 then I would think retarded the timing only on the 2 step would help me to do that. I would think I would start at a small amount and gradually go more on the degrees until I atleast see it pulling what I have my gate pressure set too. Even if only 5-6 pounds I would imagine that would be a major improvement.
It surely can't hurt, I'd just start by pulling a couple degrees at a time from your target rpm window when on the 2-step.
You may have to if the converter is too tight and you may get lucky and get that cool popping, banging fireballs when on it lol.
You may have to if the converter is too tight and you may get lucky and get that cool popping, banging fireballs when on it lol.
Retard it 5 degrees or more to start and see if it lights off. That's the whole point of it. My 6 speed manual TA would launch in boost with a bigger turbo than the 7665 and manuals obviously provide no loading with the clutch pressed.
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From: Louisiana
when I'm asking what I should set it at I'm preferring to when i install the new turbo, the 78/75 1.25 ar. I don't plan on hitting the track again until I put this new turbo and 4 inch piping installed, but that's what I was think too, go 5 degrees and just get onto the 2 step and see what it gets too. What I'm hoping to get around 7 psi off the line, this truck is heavy I need to get this thing moving.
Retarding the timing to build boost with the LNC can be a mixed bag on a stalled auto, meaning if you can't even build a psi or two at your current 2 step RPM than retarding the timing isn't going to really do anything for you and you would be best served by just raising your 2 step RPM. If you can't raise your 2 step RPM to at least build a psi or two of boost it sounds like your converter is just too tight for your combo. You need to be able to build at least 3-4 psi of boost before retarding the timing is going to help spike that boost up without the RPM dropping too much. Also pulling a degree or two per pound of boost with the LNC isn't going to really do much in most cases as it usually needs to be more "dynamic" than that, you need to keep timing high until around 3-4 psi of boost and then make a huge quick drop in timing to get that exhaust very hot very quickly, then throwing that timing back in when it reaches the launch boost/rpm set point. There isn't a way to do that with that box.
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From: Louisiana
lol hell yeh ill definitely be looking for that, im doing away with all my exhaust and putting a 4 inch exit right out the side of the front bumper so id imagine its going to sound alot more roudy and hopefully perform much better as well. Ill give the convertor i have the benefit of the doubt for now because if im going to change that then id go back with a different trans as well so im hoping to stick with this converter for a little while.
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From: Louisiana
Retarding the timing to build boost with the LNC can be a mixed bag on a stalled auto, meaning if you can't even build a psi or two at your current 2 step RPM than retarding the timing isn't going to really do anything for you and you would be best served by just raising your 2 step RPM. If you can't raise your 2 step RPM to at least build a psi or two of boost it sounds like your converter is just too tight for your combo. You need to be able to build at least 3-4 psi of boost before retarding the timing is going to help spike that boost up without the RPM dropping too much. Also pulling a degree or two per pound of boost with the LNC isn't going to really do much in most cases as it usually needs to be more "dynamic" than that, you need to keep timing high until around 3-4 psi of boost and then make a huge quick drop in timing to get that exhaust very hot very quickly, then throwing that timing back in when it reaches the launch boost/rpm set point. There isn't a way to do that with that box.
it's activated off my brake pedal so why wouldn't I be able to do it with the box? Technically if I let off the brake the timing wire is deactivated therefore returning back to the normal timing that my tuner has set in the ecu. Also I could possibly get a little more out the 2 step, I could possibly put a little better set of brake pads on it and raise the 2 step to let's say maybe 3000 and I think it would be in boost, maybe not much but I think it would be there. It went from negative 11 to negative 3 fairly easy.
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From: Louisiana
What I'm saying is that box is limited to pulling a set amount of timing per psi of boost and technically that's not going to accomplish much for you. Pulling timing to build boost generally needs to be more "dynamic" than that for it to work properly so using that box for this specific situation isn't going to do much. Having a higher RPM set point will have a MUCH greater effect on building boost for you.
that's not true, only if you wire it through the map sensor it will pull degrees per psi, if you wire it directly to +12v then you can pull up to 15 degrees no matter what psi your pulling. Thats why im saying im going to put all new brake pads on it so i can hold it back a little better and wire it directly to the 12v i have tied in with the 2 step thats activated by combination of switch and brake pedal. Also you can set the delay of seconds you want it to take to pull the degrees
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Sorry, I'm no help with the 2 step - never had one. You are going to need it more with larger turbine and housing most likely. Anyone else have an opinion on intake manifold, keeping in mind the weight of the truck , gears, converter, trans , cam , displacement etc... ? My thoughts are that the early truck or better the nnbs / tbss intake will make a lot more torque in the usable rpm range and especially in the converter stall area . Better VE in that area area would mean more exhaust volume which would mean better/faster spool , more torque in that area would actually stall the converter higher , more rpm would also mean more exhaust -even faster spooling. Snow ball effect , it's a win win IMO . Anyone with comparison results?
that's not true, only if you wire it through the map sensor it will pull degrees per psi, if you wire it directly to +12v then you can pull up to 15 degrees no matter what psi your pulling. Thats why im saying im going to put all new brake pads on it so i can hold it back a little better and wire it directly to the 12v i have tied in with the 2 step thats activated by combination of switch and brake pedal. Also you can set the delay of seconds you want it to take to pull the degrees
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From: Louisiana
Exactly right. I wouldnt do it with the MAP, let it dump all at once. It worked on my setup and you already have it and its easy to wire up. I'd suggest you simply try it on the current turbo because again its super easy to wire up and test. NicD does have a good point that you should find the 2 step RPM where you cant hold the truck anymore on the brakes. Play with that first, and then try retarding timing.
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From: Louisiana
You can't hook it up like that to dump it all at once as that will actually hurt your spool time because it's not triggering at a particular RPM. Actually the retard build timer function MIGHT work if you time it correctly, but it's still not how it should be done as that box just doesn't give you that level of control. What you really need is more RPM...
Who is your tuner?
I'd first swap over the parts and with your tuner see how it comes up on the 2 step as a baseline. You'll kinda know if it's lighting off in a decent amount of time or is on the laggy side. I'm not a tuner but perhaps your tuner or the guys on here who have tweaked they spooling-up aspect of their tunes can advice you on what to do.
My buddy who went from S483 / 370 to S491 had to for the first time retard timing to get it to spool in a reasonable time window.
I'd first swap over the parts and with your tuner see how it comes up on the 2 step as a baseline. You'll kinda know if it's lighting off in a decent amount of time or is on the laggy side. I'm not a tuner but perhaps your tuner or the guys on here who have tweaked they spooling-up aspect of their tunes can advice you on what to do.
My buddy who went from S483 / 370 to S491 had to for the first time retard timing to get it to spool in a reasonable time window.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2022
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From: Louisiana
Who is your tuner?
I'd first swap over the parts and with your tuner see how it comes up on the 2 step as a baseline. You'll kinda know if it's lighting off in a decent amount of time or is on the laggy side. I'm not a tuner but perhaps your tuner or the guys on here who have tweaked they spooling-up aspect of their tunes can advice you on what to do.
My buddy who went from S483 / 370 to S491 had to for the first time retard timing to get it to spool in a reasonable time window.
I'd first swap over the parts and with your tuner see how it comes up on the 2 step as a baseline. You'll kinda know if it's lighting off in a decent amount of time or is on the laggy side. I'm not a tuner but perhaps your tuner or the guys on here who have tweaked they spooling-up aspect of their tunes can advice you on what to do.
My buddy who went from S483 / 370 to S491 had to for the first time retard timing to get it to spool in a reasonable time window.
