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FWIW here's 1 of my best , best 60' ever was 1.65 . 4420 lbs RW 80e approx 3000 ptc 3.73s MT et street 295/65r15 ( 30" tall) even with a good burnout 5-6 Mississippi s ( high tech ) it's traction limited I leave on vacuum @ 2500 rpm , it's positive pressure before 100% TPS trying to push it harder results in wheel spin . Even upping the Crack pressure on the aem tru boost from 3.5 to 5 lbs results in spin ( going to play with that some more . Installing DA front shocks helped, but I am long wheelbase with rear fuel tank and battery, I'm sure that the short wheelbase helps but not sure you're gonna get down to 1.5 without breaking parts - I broke a R&P followed by a 1330 ujoint at a track rental 3hrs from home - fun . Anyway just saying you can run 10s in a DD truck without a great 60' but if you can get it down it will help a lot
FWIW here's 1 of my best , best 60' ever was 1.65 . 4420 lbs RW 80e approx 3000 ptc 3.73s MT et street 295/65r15 ( 30" tall) even with a good burnout 5-6 Mississippi s ( high tech ) it's traction limited I leave on vacuum @ 2500 rpm , it's positive pressure before 100% TPS trying to push it harder results in wheel spin . Even upping the Crack pressure on the aem tru boost from 3.5 to 5 lbs results in spin ( going to play with that some more . Installing DA front shocks helped, but I am long wheelbase with rear fuel tank and battery, I'm sure that the short wheelbase helps but not sure you're gonna get down to 1.5 without breaking parts - I broke a R&P followed by a 1330 ujoint at a track rental 3hrs from home - fun . Anyway just saying you can run 10s in a DD truck without a great 60' but if you can get it down it will help a lot
wow your setup sounds similar to mine, I can stall up to about 27 or 2800 before I start pushing the tires but if i pump the brakes really well i can possibly go a little more. I actually didn't watch my gauge on the line so I'm not even sure if I was leaving on vacuum or in boost. I heard it spooling so seemed as I was building boost. Hopefully I don't break anything but honestly if it happens then I guess I need to upgrade whatever that may be. I think the track I go to is just prepped really well because we have another track and I have spun in the past at that one but the one I usually go to I hook up pretty well
Even better take a copy of his slip and it will help you visualize the numbers you need when you run the truck. Notice the 6.91/102 in the 1/8th.
oh truck me I have the numbers embedded in to my head what I need to do to accomplish this. Turbo is coming today, hopefully within about 2 weeks I'll have everything done
I'm definitely launching in vacuum, I got on the 2 step in the driveway just to confirm and my boost gauge reads negative 11 at ideal and when I get on the 2 steps it's about negative 3
I'm definitely launching in vacuum, I got on the 2 step in the driveway just to confirm and my boost gauge reads negative 11 at ideal and when I get on the 2 steps it's about negative 3
your 2 step is not setup right. That thing should easily be in boost with an auto and 2 step.
A stalled auto on a 2 step that can't launch in boost on a 7665 either has the tune setup horribly or has an issue with the 2 step configuration. Give the trucks ET and MPH the tune looks pretty good. I guess its possible the stall is just way too tight.
Was that at the limit of traction on street tires ? Could be closer to or in boost if you were on a track with DR s ? I had a quick look at RH's video on ls intakes with boost , while there's no direct early truck - tbss - sheet metal on a 5.3 with your cam you can compare different power curves with different intakes . In general on a 5.3 the fabbed intake was down at anything below 6200 IIRC so even if you raised the shift points you will be spending at least some time below that - just saying. There are quite a few differences between our set ups, similar weight and bad aero but mine is lq4 with baby cam 214/214 , i wanted a good sleeper and off idle torque for effortless cruising locked up in OD at near 5000 lbs . stock forward truck manifolds 7875 .96 . I mentioned the tbss intake cause it's readily available ( 08 and up trucks I think ) and dirt cheap and works very well in the average street vehicles rpm range . Remember we're running 500 - 1000 lbs heavier than the average street car , good little winter project maybe pick 1 up to have in case you can't get to 10s with the new turbo
A stalled auto on a 2 step that can't launch in boost on a 7665 either has the tune setup horribly or has an issue with the 2 step configuration. Give the trucks ET and MPH the tune looks pretty good. I guess its possible the stall is just way too tight.
I think he said he's running a 3800 converter.
Scott you need to be talking to Greg he's done this. I was aggressive in my guestimation on the 60 but the 1/8th numbers are in line with what I was saying.
I checked, his tires are 28" with 3.42 s and mine are 30" with 3.73s, without doing the math that puts us fairly close . Main difference is in the engine set up
I hear the turbo whistling when I get on the 2 step but the boost gauge doesn't show that I'm in boost. I can possibly try and bumping my 2 step up a bit because at the negative 3 that was very close to being in boost. How would the 2 step not being setup right affect me not being to build boost from the line?
Was that at the limit of traction on street tires ? Could be closer to or in boost if you were on a track with DR s ? I had a quick look at RH's video on ls intakes with boost , while there's no direct early truck - tbss - sheet metal on a 5.3 with your cam you can compare different power curves with different intakes . In general on a 5.3 the fabbed intake was down at anything below 6200 IIRC so even if you raised the shift points you will be spending at least some time below that - just saying. There are quite a few differences between our set ups, similar weight and bad aero but mine is lq4 with baby cam 214/214 , i wanted a good sleeper and off idle torque for effortless cruising locked up in OD at near 5000 lbs . stock forward truck manifolds 7875 .96 . I mentioned the tbss intake cause it's readily available ( 08 and up trucks I think ) and dirt cheap and works very well in the average street vehicles rpm range . Remember we're running 500 - 1000 lbs heavier than the average street car , good little winter project maybe pick 1 up to have in case you can't get to 10s with the new turbo
I possibly could of pushed it a little further, I had it raised when it was all motor and it would try and spin the tires so I backed it down and haven't tried going back up. Also I don't change the tires it's always on the mickey Thompsons. So what would be the route to go on intake manifold, I don't mind if it's not the cheapest route. Also the new turbo 1.25ar not the .96. My new tuner choose the turbo and it came in last night.
Scott you need to be talking to Greg he's done this. I was aggressive in my guestimation on the 60 but the 1/8th numbers are in line with what I was saying.
my tuner is telling me exactly what you are saying.
Wow you guys just majorly opened my eyes, I read into the lnc2000 launch control with boost and I had no idea I was supposed to use the timing retard feature with boost. So the way I have my 2 step wire is through a toggle switch that received power from my brake pedal. And the reason I did it like that is because at first I didn't have the switch and I couldn't do burnouts because it was activating the 2 step so the switch allows me to heat the tires then activate, but what I'll do now is run the orange timing wiring from the LNC2000 to that same switch that way it activates at the same time as the 2 step. Is there a suggested amount of timing I pull per psi? I know what the Nitrous I did 2 degrees per 50 shot. I know it will only be activate during launch control but I just want to make sure I'm pulling the right amount of degrees. Wow man this explains my 60 foot, little did I know smh
Wow you guys just majorly opened my eyes, I read into the lnc2000 launch control with boost and I had no idea I was supposed to use the timing retard feature with boost. So the way I have my 2 step wire is through a toggle switch that received power from my brake pedal. And the reason I did it like that is because at first I didn't have the switch and I couldn't do burnouts because it was activating the 2 step so the switch allows me to heat the tires then activate, but what I'll do now is run the orange timing wiring from the LNC2000 to that same switch that way it activates at the same time as the 2 step. Is there a suggested amount of timing I pull per psi? I know what the Nitrous I did 2 degrees per 50 shot. I know it will only be activate during launch control but I just want to make sure I'm pulling the right amount of degrees. Wow man this explains my 60 foot, little did I know smh
Live and learn brother, usually raising the 2-step rpm is an easy way to raise the boost amount as well.
My car will make 5-6 lbs. on the 2-step at 3,000 rpm with an S484 turbo so you should have no issues.
I've been told as you raise the rpm, the boost increases as well so I'm curious to try it and see.
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