Projected horsepower
#561
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You must have the early style VC that had a valve built into the DS cover , haven't actually seen 1 but have heard of them . PS cover should go pre turbo, post filter ( supplies clean air into engine during non boost use ) can also vent pressure during boost , no check valve required. DS cover into catch can , out of catch can to pcv port at top of manifold with check valve to prevent boost going into can . I have another out on my can that goes pre turbo also and with some air filter restriction provides a vacuum source during boost , it also has a check valve to prevent it from being a huge vacuum leak into the pcv system. If you tee the 2 valve cover lines together you will not have a clean air in , bad air / gases out. If your can has only 2 ports I would run the PS cover hose to a remote mounted filter that can provide clean air in and vent any pressure. Maybe fender or fire wall mounted, above the height of the cover
#562
What did you decide on an air filter? Is it the screen? If so yeah I would hook the PS cover to vent type filter , maybe keep it up at top of manifold height. It's going to vent gases and maybe oil mist under boost so a bit of height and distance should reduce oil mess
#563
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I put it like this and i can put a small filter on a hose to the passenger valve cover and possibly make a bracket and screw it to the firewall.
#564
There is a problem with this set up , under vacuum conditions you have a proper pcv system, under boost when the check valve in the pvc line closes then the pass side is the only crankcase vent . Could hook up a low pressure gauge to the dipstick tube temporarily and do a test run on street or dyno and check pressure
#565
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There is a problem with this set up , under vacuum conditions you have a proper pcv system, under boost when the check valve in the pvc line closes then the pass side is the only crankcase vent . Could hook up a low pressure gauge to the dipstick tube temporarily and do a test run on street or dyno and check pressure
#566
Im kind of confused then, so how do you suggest i do it? Im hearing different ways and not exactly sure what to do. I have extra hose, i have different t clamps and I also have the small air filter so I can make the needed adjustments pretty easily. Just not exactly sure what would be the right way. I was going to hook the drivers side to the can and back to the distribution block and then vent passenger or should I t them together and put them both into the can?
#567
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bigger problem if you tee them together with an unvented can and check valve in the line to the vacuum block, when the check valve is closed in boost the whole engine is sealed up and will surely push oil past seals and gaskets unless pushing out the dipstick is enoughof a vent LOL. If stuck with the 2 port can and no pre turbo filter or plumbing to hook into I would stick with the vent the PS and run the DS through the can . Were you venting the PS right at the fill cap ? With or without that 3-4" extension piece at the filler ? That piece could reduce oil getting pushed out . I made my whole set up cause I've had friends get tickets for open breathers on various set ups- even a 38 chev !! No way am I paying a 350$ fine . I'm actually surprised that it works so good considering it was a first attempt and most say -10 lines off each cover
#568
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This is exactly how my valve covers look
#569
By pre turbo filter I mean engine air filter, a bit of restriction there offers a slight vacuum source under boost and filter air to go into VC. if you have no check valve you will push boost into the DS VC thru the engine and out of the vented PS VC . not sure if the factory pcv in the DS VC is capable of stopping this ? No check valve and no vent would mean you are pressurizing the crank case . Never blew out the dipstick or pushed oil out anywhere?
#571
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By pre turbo filter I mean engine air filter, a bit of restriction there offers a slight vacuum source under boost and filter air to go into VC. if you have no check valve you will push boost into the DS VC thru the engine and out of the vented PS VC . not sure if the factory pcv in the DS VC is capable of stopping this ? No check valve and no vent would mean you are pressurizing the crank case . Never blew out the dipstick or pushed oil out anywhere?
#572
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#573
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I ordered a check valve, I think I understand. So I'll run the drivers valve cover into the can and from the can I'll run the out port into the check valve then from there to the distribution block with flow going into the block and I'll put a hose with a filter on the passenger side with an air filter and elevate the filter?
#574
I could put a small air filter on the turbo, that is an option. also i havent driven it closed so im not sure. Im waiting on the transmission i had built to come in and i wanted to get this addressed while i have it down. Ive only driven it with the air filter on the oil cap. So if it hooked it up like you said previously with the air filter on the passenger side valve cover then would that be OK since it has a vent that way? Or should I do it that way and add an air filter on the turbo as well? I don't mind buying stuff to do it right i just don't want to keep ordering stuff that I'm really guessing how to do. I've already ordered a few things that I don't seem to need now. I can get a check valve if that's what I need to do also, I'm just not sure what kind to get and where I would put it.
#575
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I would only do the engine air filter if you can put something on there that's not going to hurt power too much . Can you apply shop air at say 20 psi to the DS pcv port and see if it act like a check valve - no air coming out of the dipstick tube? That would determine if a check valve is required, if it is needed put it between the intake or vacuum block ( which is a boost block under boost ) and catch can oriented to allow flow into the intake or block but not out . Then the breather on the fill port and block PS VC nipple.
#577
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#578
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New transmission is in, catch can is hooked up the way Greg and I discussed with the check valve in between the can and the distribution block and the passenger side is on a filter. Tomorrow when I get home from work I'll hook up the drive shaft, converter bolts and all the accessories to the trans. The circle d converter came with 2 different sets of washers so I guess I'll have to measure to see which ones to use. I have a few 1/8 drill bits I can measure with. Trans was a little rough to put in with no trans jack but with 2 jacks and some 2 by 4 I slowly worked it into place and got it in. I put 1 quart of fluid in the converter before I put it in.
#580
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I didn't get much done today cause I ended up working all day, i measured the torque convertor today and I ended up needed the smaller washers so I put them in and torqued the bolts to 50 pounds, but I'm off tomorrow so I'll definitely do whatever it takes tomorrow to be able to turn key tomorrow.