Projected horsepower
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From: Louisiana
I think I'm going to get rid of the boost controller and get a boost pressure sensor so I can control the boost off the holley. The boost controller doesn't seem to be as accurate as the holley and I feel like I don't need it anymore. I'm just not to sure how to do it. I also had 2 different people tell me different things, 1 suggest 1 put traction control and the other suggest I pull timing off the line. What do you guys think i should do to get the 60 foot down? When I'm on the 2 step i was building around 4-5 psi and as soon as I hit the gas it instantly hits 19-20 psi and spins the **** out of the tire, it's violent off the line so im sure that's my issue
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I don't know anything about the holley or any real boost strategies but my basic approach would be to reduce the 2 step rpm and if you're boost controller has what aem calls a Crack pressure setting reduce that until you don't spin , if that doesn't provide the 60' you want then you'll have to work on traction before you can put down more power early in the run. FWIW my trucks best 60' so far was 2500 rpm on foot brake, still in vacuum and crack pressure at 3.5 lbs , any higher on either of those results in spin . Probably could work on the traction some more but worried a bit about the 12 bolt truck diff as I have broken it before and doing a 9' and 4 link would cost as much as my whole truck - not for me
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From: Louisiana
I don't know anything about the holley or any real boost strategies but my basic approach would be to reduce the 2 step rpm and if you're boost controller has what aem calls a Crack pressure setting reduce that until you don't spin , if that doesn't provide the 60' you want then you'll have to work on traction before you can put down more power early in the run. FWIW my trucks best 60' so far was 2500 rpm on foot brake, still in vacuum and crack pressure at 3.5 lbs , any higher on either of those results in spin . Probably could work on the traction some more but worried a bit about the 12 bolt truck diff as I have broken it before and doing a 9' and 4 link would cost as much as my whole truck - not for me
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Had a look at the instructions for that controller, the GP1 setting is essentially the same as the Crack pressure on my aem . If you're spinning a little off the line , as boost comes up, not right at the line . Then I would reduce that number until traction holds . Will take some practice at the track playing with starting line rpm and boost control to find the sweet spot . Holley can do boost by rpm too can't it ? That may be worth playing with or boost by time . I'm sure others can help with a strategy there
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From: Louisiana
Had a look at the instructions for that controller, the GP1 setting is essentially the same as the Crack pressure on my aem . If you're spinning a little off the line , as boost comes up, not right at the line . Then I would reduce that number until traction holds . Will take some practice at the track playing with starting line rpm and boost control to find the sweet spot . Holley can do boost by rpm too can't it ? That may be worth playing with or boost by time . I'm sure others can help with a strategy there
Boost by time might be another avenue, leave on 5-6 lbs. then ramp to full boost after 3-4 seconds.
This is my plan once I get to the track eventually.
Spicy MPH too, easily a 10 second truck.
Nice work!
This is my plan once I get to the track eventually.
Spicy MPH too, easily a 10 second truck.
Nice work!
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From: Louisiana
he wants to hook up a speed sensor adapter to the transmission and says we will use the abs sensors from the front tires to compare wheel speed and also hook up and viair air tank, a second mac valve, and a dome pressure sensor so he can monitor and control boost directly from holley and doing away with the boost controller. He says I'll be much more accurate like this, and thanks man. It was pulling hard on the top end, rpm was shifting around 7100 and maybe dropped slightly below 6 between shifts. It definitely spun it's *** off on the line. I did add the traction bars on the rear so I figured I might could tighten them up a bit as well.
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All good choices on getting you there with boost control and keeping it all in one place. Great 1st outing!
I'd say you have a deep 10 in there when you get the 1st 660' figured out (there is certainly improvement in there). For reference my TBSS went 10.6x @128 making around 680-700whp, it's been a minute but I think I was around 4625# race weight.
I'd say you have a deep 10 in there when you get the 1st 660' figured out (there is certainly improvement in there). For reference my TBSS went 10.6x @128 making around 680-700whp, it's been a minute but I think I was around 4625# race weight.
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From: Louisiana
All good choices on getting you there with boost control and keeping it all in one place. Great 1st outing!
I'd say you have a deep 10 in there when you get the 1st 660' figured out (there is certainly improvement in there). For reference my TBSS went 10.6x @128 making around 680-700whp, it's been a minute but I think I was around 4625# race weight.
I'd say you have a deep 10 in there when you get the 1st 660' figured out (there is certainly improvement in there). For reference my TBSS went 10.6x @128 making around 680-700whp, it's been a minute but I think I was around 4625# race weight.
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From: Louisiana
Well that was fun while it lasted, it you guys knew me personally you would understand why this is so frustrating. Man i take damn good care of my truck and im the guy driving 40 mph in the slow lane with a 750 hp truck. I had a meeting to attend with my company so i decided to drive the truck just so i could take it out and i noticed my hot oil pressure was 45 psi and its usually 60, by the time i got to my destination idle pressure was 20 psi, when i drove home it would come back up to around 35-40 while driving and by the time i made it home idle pressure was around 15 psi and the oil gauge was flickering. I was hoping oil pressure sensor or pickup tube o ring so I changed the sensor and drained the oil and I noticed the oil looked to have a sparkle or haze to it so I cut the oil filter open and to my finding is what you see. I guess the gen 3 block, rods, & pistons couldn't handle 750. So back to square 1, do i go out and get a gen 4 short block that already has pistons and rods, do I go pull a 5.3 from the junkyard and put gen 4 pistons and rods in it, or do I pull my motor and put gen 4 pistons and rods in it?
Unfortunately, you already know it will be impossible to determine the correct next step until you pull it and see what the damage truly is. That is, unless you suddenly become wealthy enough to just buy a new fully forged replacement motor, of course.
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From: Louisiana
yeh I know, it just trying to determine which rout i should go.
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Sorry to hear it , man you have no luck at all. If you've got a place you can disable it for a while you might as well pull it and investigate what happened, could have started with the vavle train . Too bad cause probably getting into good driving weather down there , up here you'd be saying - oh well got all winter to get it fixed . Keep us updated
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From: Louisiana
Sorry to hear it , man you have no luck at all. If you've got a place you can disable it for a while you might as well pull it and investigate what happened, could have started with the vavle train . Too bad cause probably getting into good driving weather down there , up here you'd be saying - oh well got all winter to get it fixed . Keep us updated
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I'm just going to put gen 4 rods and pistons with arp rod bolts in my block. Is it better to pull the heads first and then pull the shortblock or pull the whole long block assembled?
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Should come out easily enough with the heads still on , will save some over the fenders work . Is all that metal aluminum or steel (check with magnet) still curious what failed first. Guys bend gen3 rods without the bearings failing . Read back a bit and see the dyno graph falling off pretty hard around 6400 , not sure if they let off at that point or not . You said you shifted at 7100 ? That may be a bit higher than optimal, experimenting at the track when you get back to it will tell. My lq4 had 180k miles when I started and added another 32k since if that helps with your decision making
Thread Starter
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From: Louisiana
Should come out easily enough with the heads still on , will save some over the fenders work . Is all that metal aluminum or steel (check with magnet) still curious what failed first. Guys bend gen3 rods without the bearings failing . Read back a bit and see the dyno graph falling off pretty hard around 6400 , not sure if they let off at that point or not . You said you shifted at 7100 ? That may be a bit higher than optimal, experimenting at the track when you get back to it will tell. My lq4 had 180k miles when I started and added another 32k since if that helps with your decision making
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From: Louisiana
that's what I'm going to do, it was still running and pulling normal, no strange noises or anything. I just knew it always had really good oil pressure so that was a major sign for me, and ive changed every damn thing in this truck except the pistons and rods(bottom end) and it would be the one thing i haven't changed that failed on me. Smh, never ends man. I've already started ripping it apart. I'll get it back up and running soon. This truck will not defeat me.
