Projected horsepower
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Logging most runs is an absolute must even if you have no intention of doing any tuning. You can potentially catch small problems before they become really big ones. Years ago I had a MAP sensor blow out and suddenly I had 100kpa worth of fuel instead of 170kpa worth. Instead of sweating over a hot engine wondering why it just fell on its face, I could immediately see the problem and fix it.
On The Tree
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Dude just go forged and be done. I get that people don’t mind tearing down motors gapping rings and round tripping the install. But the forged stuff is cheap peace of mind. You’re two more exploded SBE’s away from spending forged money anyways.
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Last edited by Tommy42088; Oct 15, 2024 at 05:18 PM.
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Up to you, can hit your goal reliably with the gen 4 stuff at a fraction of the cost though. Quick use of some of wallaceracing.com calculators puts you at under 5800rpm at 130mph depending on converter slip % in case you to think about your power curve and gearing
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yeh thats why i was debating it. Ive seen plenty guys push to 1000hp with gen 4 so i didnt really think it would be a problem. And tbh i didn't notice where my rpm were when i crossed the finish line and i was at 128 so i was right there at that speed
If the crank is still good, I'd drop in gen IV rods and pistons and keep going.
Those should literally be a drop in deal which you could do yourself, gap the rings while you're in there.
Buy some block cleaning brushes and a case of brake cleaner and give the block a very good cleaning or have it hot tanked.
A forged rotator will also require cleaning the block and balancing so more money, Summit has a good rod/piston package too.
I'd scoop up a LC9 or L33 aluminum block and piece together a fully forged rotator over time while enjoying the engine with the Gen IV parts.
Those should literally be a drop in deal which you could do yourself, gap the rings while you're in there.
Buy some block cleaning brushes and a case of brake cleaner and give the block a very good cleaning or have it hot tanked.
A forged rotator will also require cleaning the block and balancing so more money, Summit has a good rod/piston package too.
I'd scoop up a LC9 or L33 aluminum block and piece together a fully forged rotator over time while enjoying the engine with the Gen IV parts.
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From: Louisiana
If the crank is still good, I'd drop in gen IV rods and pistons and keep going.
Those should literally be a drop in deal which you could do yourself, gap the rings while you're in there.
Buy some block cleaning brushes and a case of brake cleaner and give the block a very good cleaning or have it hot tanked.
A forged rotator will also require cleaning the block and balancing so more money, Summit has a good rod/piston package too.
I'd scoop up a LC9 or L33 aluminum block and piece together a fully forged rotator over time while enjoying the engine with the Gen IV parts.
Those should literally be a drop in deal which you could do yourself, gap the rings while you're in there.
Buy some block cleaning brushes and a case of brake cleaner and give the block a very good cleaning or have it hot tanked.
A forged rotator will also require cleaning the block and balancing so more money, Summit has a good rod/piston package too.
I'd scoop up a LC9 or L33 aluminum block and piece together a fully forged rotator over time while enjoying the engine with the Gen IV parts.
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Verdad Gallardo We have a spare crank if mine is damaged, and the piston and rods im looking at don't require balancing. My tuner won't charge me much for labor is I do have to take it to get balanced Regardless as his dad works at a machine shop. Also I did consider getting a different block, the only reason I didn't is because I just bought the arp studs and I knew I couldn't use them with the aluminum block. I'm waiting for him to open the block as I haven't purchased anything yet. I want to see what he finds before I spend any money.
Fingers crossed for that.
If that's the case, add a new HV/HP oil pump with new bearings, that will help keep oil pressure stable at high rpm, factory pumps tend to cavitate above 6,000 rpm.
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it has a melling oil pump in it now, if i have to replace ill go back with that one again. The sleeves definitely looked fine. It never knocked or lose power so im hoping I caught it soon enough to where it didnt cause to much damage.
Could just be cam bearings too, I've seen those go bad and do exactly what you're seeing and its actually pretty common.
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I'm thinking it's the main bearings. If I had to guess I'd said number 1 cylinder. If you recall I posted several months back, not sure if it was this post or a different one but the rod had broken off from the piston. The valve seal was stuck and the valve could close and detonated the hell out the piston. I had stuck another gen 3 piston and rod in it and replaced the head and put it right back on the road. So I'm assuming that bearing probably failed cause I didn't check clearances or anything on it.
Damn it man.
Time to start at looking at other options instead of tossing yet another used short block at it.
Is the crank salvageable?
At this point I'd have them prep the block, clean up the crank if possible, pick up a rod/piston package from Summit and be done with it or if the crank is junk get that from summit too.
Either that or pick up a fairly low mile (100K or less) L33 or LC9 short block, inspect it thoroughly, confirm gaps and make sure its ready for duty.
Or...or.... get another crank and a set of factory bearings and go back together while saving for option one.
Time to start at looking at other options instead of tossing yet another used short block at it.
Is the crank salvageable?
At this point I'd have them prep the block, clean up the crank if possible, pick up a rod/piston package from Summit and be done with it or if the crank is junk get that from summit too.
Either that or pick up a fairly low mile (100K or less) L33 or LC9 short block, inspect it thoroughly, confirm gaps and make sure its ready for duty.
Or...or.... get another crank and a set of factory bearings and go back together while saving for option one.
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From: Louisiana
Damn it man.
Time to start at looking at other options instead of tossing yet another used short block at it.
Is the crank salvageable?
At this point I'd have them prep the block, clean up the crank if possible, pick up a rod/piston package from Summit and be done with it or if the crank is junk get that from summit too.
Either that or pick up a fairly low mile (100K or less) L33 or LC9 short block, inspect it thoroughly, confirm gaps and make sure its ready for duty.
Or...or.... get another crank and a set of factory bearings and go back together while saving for option one.
Time to start at looking at other options instead of tossing yet another used short block at it.
Is the crank salvageable?
At this point I'd have them prep the block, clean up the crank if possible, pick up a rod/piston package from Summit and be done with it or if the crank is junk get that from summit too.
Either that or pick up a fairly low mile (100K or less) L33 or LC9 short block, inspect it thoroughly, confirm gaps and make sure its ready for duty.
Or...or.... get another crank and a set of factory bearings and go back together while saving for option one.
he's telling me it's not worth saving the block because I would have to line hone it and the main studs are damaged. Mind you this is an lm7 block. He said the damages he found is worse case scenario. Crank is damaged as well, crank was flexing? He said he has a 6.0 bare block that I can buy for 300 and he has a spare crank we can use and of course I would have to get pistons & rods and the few other small variables it takes to put the shortblock together.
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I aint scared to change the turbo, im waiting on the guy to call me with the 6.0. He said he's 90% sure he will sell it so im trying to push him on the 10%. It will probably be down a little while though because im going to go ahead and send mh transmission back to frank and get it upgraded to the next stage and i want to put a transbrake in it too.
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U can use the 5.3 rods and crank in the 6.0 if they are salvagable and just get a set of replacement LQ9/LS2 pistons if the rods are floating rods….if not you can find them pretty cheap already refurbished on ebay….ive done that a few times to build a couple 6.0’s and converting 4.8’s to 5.3’s…..but im sure you already know this….but a 6.0 block for $300, yeah you might wanna check that one out before you miss out on it……it might just be the answer u need…..i scored a LQ4 block and crank on craiglist a few years back for $500, got a pair of gen 4 rods that were refurbished for $150 and a set of new .030 over LS2 flat tops with rings for a hair over $200….had the block bored .030 over and put 64cc LS3 style heads on it for a super budget 11.2:1 compression 370” ripper, a year later added a LSA blower and now im putting together a 408” stroker assembeley to go into the block because who doesnt want more power!!!…..except on the 408” im going with 68cc factory style GM LSA heads and a LOWER 9.85:1 compression cause buying cases of boostane is starting to add up and there is no E-85 nearby…….but you get the idea….i will then put the 370” setup into my vortech centrifugal supercharged ‘73 c10 swb fleetside which currently has a lil rowdy supercharged 4.8 that thinks its a 6.0, even before boost that 4.8 was pretty damn stout!!! And sipped gas , as compared to any LS with a 4.00 or larger bore…..they are both just play vehicles so im not after MPG’s like most that use their car/truck as a primary source of transportation
Thread Starter
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From: Louisiana
U can use the 5.3 rods and crank in the 6.0 if they are salvagable and just get a set of replacement LQ9/LS2 pistons if the rods are floating rods….if not you can find them pretty cheap already refurbished on ebay….ive done that a few times to build a couple 6.0’s and converting 4.8’s to 5.3’s…..but im sure you already know this….but a 6.0 block for $300, yeah you might wanna check that one out before you miss out on it……it might just be the answer u need…..i scored a LQ4 block and crank on craiglist a few years back for $500, got a pair of gen 4 rods that were refurbished for $150 and a set of new .030 over LS2 flat tops with rings for a hair over $200….had the block bored .030 over and put 64cc LS3 style heads on it for a super budget 11.2:1 compression 370” ripper, a year later added a LSA blower and now im putting together a 408” stroker assembeley to go into the block because who doesnt want more power!!!…..except on the 408” im going with 68cc factory style GM LSA heads and a LOWER 9.85:1 compression cause buying cases of boostane is starting to add up and there is no E-85 nearby…….but you get the idea….i will then put the 370” setup into my vortech centrifugal supercharged ‘73 c10 swb fleetside which currently has a lil rowdy supercharged 4.8 that thinks its a 6.0, even before boost that 4.8 was pretty damn stout!!! And sipped gas , as compared to any LS with a 4.00 or larger bore…..they are both just play vehicles so im not after MPG’s like most that use their car/truck as a primary source of transportation
Last edited by Tommy42088; Nov 16, 2024 at 05:36 PM.
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Sounds like a plan…..i got my fingers crossed for ya, hopefully that aluminum 5.3 checks out and is good to go, $800 for any aluminum block (not ls4)LS is a bargain, if it checks out O.K. That is……aluminunum 5.3’s here in the s.f. Ghey area go for $2500 on a good day so for $800, yeah ill take 3 please!!!