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Don't mean to argue with anyone specifically. Was commenting in general for anyone reading. With all that nice swag, I can’t imagine paying for a cheap kit. It will be more headache that its worth. Or at least until I find one that proves different, it will be.
Just stating that IMO, a quick and dirty mild steel hotside is the best budget option for most. It will work well and be serviceable for many year. Usually out living the motor it’s attached to. Not as likely to crack as SS IMO either. Seems like people in general feel like they need to put together some show worthy SS TIG’d masterpiece.
I can TIG, but I hate it. For me, it’s a giant waste of time/gas/money for a “pretty weld” that I’ll spray paint and cover up with heat wrap. 90% of my hotside isn’t even visible. So no reason to blow through $100 worth of argon and spend 20 hours TIG welding something suitable for SEMA. When I could MIG a whole kit in a few hours for peanuts that will run great for many years. KISS principle is where its at IMO. Not knocking the “Artists” out there welding up some amazing looking pipes either. Only saying its not needed to do the job well.
No argument here. I agree, I could do a quick and dirty setup... no doubt. Its just, its not what he or I want. I don't have time for it either. Theres numerous factors in this equation. I work 50-60 hours a week, so I don't feel like doing it. It has to get done quickly, He works in the plants so he can't take off and get paid just yet. Only been there two months. He doesn't have another vehicle to drive yet but he's working on it. I'd rather not give up my truck for him to drive and me have to drive the GTO. As much as I like the car, it doesn't have the luxuries the truck does that I'm spoiled to... remote start, heated seats, automatic climate control, heated steering wheel and most importantly..... a fully reclining driver seat. I take a nap at lunch everyday and my seat barely reclines in the GTO. And him taking the GTO to work is non negotiable lol. that won't ever happen. When I price it all out, the way I prefer to do it, it's not a bunch of money more to just buy a nice kit. The Huron seems to be the way to go, so thats the way we are going. As much as it pains me to NOT to build it, because I do love building stuff, I just don't have the option right now. I will have to modify the downpipe so I'll show what I do there. I still want to post a thread on it and maybe a video(s) but I'm not too videogenic.....
No argument here. I agree, I could do a quick and dirty setup... no doubt. Its just, its not what he or I want. I don't have time for it either. Theres numerous factors in this equation. I work 50-60 hours a week, so I don't feel like doing it. It has to get done quickly, He works in the plants so he can't take off and get paid just yet. Only been there two months. He doesn't have another vehicle to drive yet but he's working on it. I'd rather not give up my truck for him to drive and me have to drive the GTO. As much as I like the car, it doesn't have the luxuries the truck does that I'm spoiled to... remote start, heated seats, automatic climate control, heated steering wheel and most importantly..... a fully reclining driver seat. I take a nap at lunch everyday and my seat barely reclines in the GTO. And him taking the GTO to work is non negotiable lol. that won't ever happen. When I price it all out, the way I prefer to do it, it's not a bunch of money more to just buy a nice kit. The Huron seems to be the way to go, so thats the way we are going. As much as it pains me to NOT to build it, because I do love building stuff, I just don't have the option right now. I will have to modify the downpipe so I'll show what I do there. I still want to post a thread on it and maybe a video(s) but I'm not too videogenic.....
I hear ya, time is more valuable to me as well. That’s why I can justify a few weekends building a quick kit VS being frustrated with “store bought kit” that I have to modify anyway.
Take the $2600 Hurron kit for example. Sounds ok at first. But that kit is really $3000++. At minimum factor in the +$200 option to relocate AC lines, add $180 for shipping, and $200 for tax. Then you have to mess with recharging the AC system…. More money and time. Then also note it states “please provide a 6 week build time” ! That’s a lot of things to consider vs hammering out a DIY kit for 1/3 the cost. (if that)
I hear ya, time is more valuable to me as well. That’s why I can justify a few weekends building a quick kit VS being frustrated with “store bought kit” that I have to modify anyway.
Take the $2600 Hurron kit for example. Sounds ok at first. But that kit is really $3000++. At minimum factor in the +$200 option to relocate AC lines, add $180 for shipping, and $200 for tax. Then you have to mess with recharging the AC system…. More money and time. Then also note it states “please provide a 6 week build time” ! That’s a lot of things to consider vs hammering out a DIY kit for 1/3 the cost. (if that)
O yea I considered all that. I need to look at it and see If I need the ac relocate line. Funny you say I have to recharge it. It doesn't have any Freon in it right now anyways. He's got a leak somewhere. I charged it up a few weeks ago and put dye in it but its not showing up anywhere. We have an ac machine here at work so I'm not worried about that part anyways. cost me $22 for freon. They didn't charge shipping on the manifold. Tax yea, of course we are just used to getting raped for that. We also need to get a blow off valve. He's not worried about the extra bits its gonna need. He knows, but to him its worth it. I gave him a choice. First do Cam and heads, or turbo, not both. Maybe do the cam and heads later on. He chose turbo. I would too.
What would you guys recommend for catch can? I'd rather him not spend $400 on a mighty mouse can. I'm sure theres a decent cheaper alternative. What have you guys used?
What would you guys recommend for catch can? I'd rather him not spend $400 on a mighty mouse can. I'm sure theres a decent cheaper alternative. What have you guys used?
The MM Can is great if you want to keep PCV function, my last car had one at 700whp and it worked great.
My current car runs a regular vented catch can and works fine, install it up in the front of the car, on the firewall and the cabin air intake may pull the fumes in but even that is rare.
Find a cheap baffled one and press on.
Just make sure the line(s) for it are of sufficient size.
Anyone ever try the Tial knockoff summit wastegate? Summit usually has good stuff.
I have two of them on my new build. They seem to be working fine. I took them apart to change springs and they weren’t full of metal shavings or any of that. I haven’t turned my boost controller back on and really put them through their paces yet though.
Ok, update. We ordered the whole kit. I had been Emailing back and forth with Jon at Huron and decided to get the whole thing along with the stock exhaust connection pipe and the AC line relocate kit. Jon has been great to deal with and very helpful, answered emails quickly. I see why they have such positive feedback. He said 6-8 weeks till we get it, so I'll be playing the waiting game and collecting the other stuff we need in the meantime.
I have two of them on my new build. They seem to be working fine. I took them apart to change springs and they weren’t full of metal shavings or any of that. I haven’t turned my boost controller back on and really put them through their paces yet though.
we ordered one to check it out. If it doesn't pass my inspection, we gonna ordered a tial or turbosmart.
Lowdoller Motorsports is a good place to get sensors (oil/fuel etc). Many people are having good luck with the new version VS Racing wastegates. If you use (2) 38mm gates or bigger you can allow for some serious future growth.
Here is my hot side using truck manifolds on my '69 Chevelle.
The swaintech coating cost more than the materials and labor to build the kit (not including 60mm WG or turbo).
Lowdoller Motorsports is a good place to get sensors (oil/fuel etc). Many people are having good luck with the new version VS Racing wastegates. If you use (2) 38mm gates or bigger you can allow for some serious future growth.
Here is my hot side using truck manifolds on my '69 Chevelle.
The swaintech coating cost more than the materials and labor to build the kit (not including 60mm WG or turbo).
thanks. I already got the wastegate, the 3 bar map sensor, the kit of on order and the whole thing is stainless. I actually do cerakote myself so I’ll probably do the turbo housing black. We have a summit 44mm which oddly looks identical to my Tial, even in quality. It’s not a cheapo depo china boy. I’m sure it’s made in china, but a much higher standard than the $50-$60 china gates. Even the screws used aren’t the china cheapies. If you know, you know.
Sup fellas. Original plans were to take my time on the install and video it. Well that didn’t go as planned because this is his daily driver and we were in a rush to get it back on the road.
when pulling the manifolds a bolt broke off in each of the heads. I made short work of that with mig welding a nut to the broke off bolt.
the Intercooler piping took longer than anticipated because I didn’t want to put his cooler like they had it in the instructions, the Intercooler pipe did not fit until I relocated the cooler. Everything else went well though. Nice kit.
it is missing a few things. You’ll need to get exhaust gaskets and a few fittings. Nothing major, just had to stop and run to the parts store a few times. You’ll need some silicon hose and some vacuum line and vacuum caps. You also need a maf extension wire of 24” long.
I’ll have to take updated pics because I ran the air filter down so it won’t be sucking hot air off the radiator.
originally I had it on only 3 psi with a custom 2 bar operation system with the stock 24lb injectors. He ran like that for two weeks until I could get the 80lb dekas installed. It was at 115% duty cycle, 11.8:1 afr on the stock injectors. Felt 50-70hp stronger.
yesterday I put the 80 dekas in and retuned it. I was expecting to have issues tuning it because a couple people said 80’s were trash compared to the 60’s but I ran into no issues. Tuned refine. Runs fine. Changed the spring in the wastegate and it’s on 13lbs gate only with no controller. He raced a built 5.3 (heads, cam, headers, gears, huge stall etc) trans am last night and walked him. Then raced a built 6.2 trans am on slicks. The trans am surprisingly got him off the line (the 4wd leaves hard but it’s not building boost on the launch yet) but he ran him back down way before the 1/8 and the trans am let off. He ran him from a roll and as he went to pass the trans am, he let off again. What a sissy in my mind.
O and yea, I forgot. Forget about keeping the clutch fan and shroud. You have to ditch that and convert to electric fans. LUCKILY we had a new bigger radiator and a factory fan setup that someone gave us. That was just by lucky chance. This whole project would have been on hold had we not had this on hand. Good thing is his ac blows even colder and yesterday in the 95f heat I was making hits and the highest I saw was 201f. It usually sits at 197f no matter what.
i forgot to mention. After turning it up to 12-13psi yesterday, he told me he’s super happy with it and didn’t think it would run like it does. He kept asking me if it was going to be fast and I kept telling him yea. Now he believes me. I do t think I’m going to do a cam anytime soon. We might do ported 243’s and better gaskets with arp bolts.
Nice install. Have any pics of your cooler bracket mods/mounts ?
Are you going to put heat shield over those number 4 and 6 COILS ?
They look warm from here.
You don't actually need to LENGTHEN the MAF wires..... note the origin of the MAF pins is the PCM which is about 9 inches away.
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Were you able to install Turbo drain fitting clear of the A/C belt idler pulley ? MOAR Pics if you have 'em....?
Nice install. Have any pics of your cooler bracket mods/mounts ?
Are you going to put heat shield over those number 4 and 6 COILS ?
They look warm from here.
You don't actually need to LENGTHEN the MAF wires..... note the origin of the MAF pins is the PCM which is about 9 inches away.
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Were you able to install Turbo drain fitting clear of the A/C belt idler pulley ? MOAR Pics if you have 'em....?
I’ll take done tomorrow. He’s at his g/f’s house.
the turbo drain is in the valve cover.
I didn’t feel like the coils were too close, but I’m going to wrap the down pipe anyways. We were in a time crunch and I didn’t have time to wrap it. I got it back running and driveable Sunday night around 10:00. We started Friday evening. He had to have it driving for work Monday morning and we barely made it. At the last minute we realized we had no blowoff valve so I doubled up a microfiber over the blowoff v band flange and zip tied it on till we got a blowoff for it. It drove fine, no boost at that time. I didn’t even have time to tune it.
well I would take some pics of the trans cooler that I went out of my way to make, but it wouldn’t fit when I put the Intercooler one. Meh. So for now I have the trans cooler zip tied to the radiator with those ties and foam pads that come with them. It works for now.
the maf extension. I didn’t feel like undoing the harness to get it over there. I figured I might could but it actually reached temporarily without it as seen in the pics. It was just much easier to buy a cheap 24” extension. I’m not using the maf for anything except air temp. I’m still boggled how good the stock motor runs on 11lbs with no cam or anything. It leaves so hard it’s probably gonna break some **** soon.
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how good the stock motor runs on 11lbs with no cam or anything................................ It leaves so hard it’s probably gonna break some **** soon.
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. What axle ratio under there ?
Stock torque converter ?
02-01-2024, 11:15 AM
