Been chipping away at it. Cold side is done. Mostly everything up top is finished. Just need to wrap up the passenger side hot side and a few other small things here and there.

 

What radiator is that?

What pump?

Could you describe your cooling system?

 

Radiator is a scirocco style from C&R. Fan came with the radiator, I believe its a Spal. 20an lines and the fill is from Chase Bays. Pump is a Davie's Craig EWP150 and a 417 motorsports water manifold

 

It looks well set up to me. Thanks.

And, basically the same stuff I have, but my rad is in the rear…. It seems I have issues getting the air out, as it runs way hotter than I’d like.

 

I almost want to redo my setup and run twins, so I can move the rad back up front…

I’d be an idiot to do it, but that’s kinda how I roll…

 

I've done several trials filling my water system. When i first finished my build i had absolutely zero cooling issues, I filled the system by pulling a vacuum via a air lift tool. Everything was peachy until i swapped heads, and then after that it never seemed to run as cool. I burped and burped, jacked the car, used that lengthy filler funnel, etc. It seemed to be full but ran a little hot.

Then one day i just decided to empty the whole thing and vacuum fill it again, and poof - it took an extra couple of quarts of coolent to fill. which is pretty evident that there were air pockets in there.

Long story short, always vacuum fill - especially with more complicated cooling systems. The tool is only $150


Thats the tool i use ^^

 

You’re not the first one to mention Vac fill to me. It certainly seems to be the way to get it filled correctly.
I’ll pick up the necessary stuff and try it out.

Thanks.

and now, back to your regularly scheduled programming…

 

I was also going to recommend this, haha. Also, you can try cracking the lines as you fill it up from bottom to top. Example: as you are filling it, crack the bottom line of the radiator till water starts to flow out then close it. Continue to fill and then crack the top line of the radiator. Also the fill location would be jacked into the air as the highest point of the system while doing this.

I had trouble with my old setup creeping up in temp on the highway. I jacked the front up as high as I could and filled it up. I would cycle the water pump for a bit and then top it off. Rinse and repeat that a couple times until it wouldn't take anymore water. Then I left it like that for a couple days with the cap off. When I came back to it, I saw that the level had dropped some more so I just topped it off and closed it up. After that, it worked great. 170-180 degrees on the highway. This was at 70-75mph in 4th gear, pretty much 1:1 gear.

For the most part, if I am not in a rush, when I fill up cooling systems, I let them sit for a few hours or a day or two, jacked up and the cap off. That usually works for me.. Like right now, I topped off my car and its sitting with the cap off for a few days till I can get to it again.

 

That should be fun, after coming full circle from the 5.3 turbo stuff do you feel the smaller displacement engine is a lot less fun even though you can make the numbers that way?

 

Is that itty bitty radiator really going to keep that thing cool?

 

I wouldn't say its a lot less fun. You do have to run more boost to achieve the same power. I do like the smaller displacement for traction reasons. It's a little easier to keep the tire planted.

I've honestly never ran a boosted setup with this much compression or cubic inches. It's going to be interesting. Not to mention it still has 4.10 gears. I'd venture to say, traction is going to be non-existent.

 

It did when I ran the rear mounted setup in my last car. Although, that had a lot more water capacity. It worked great when the car was NA. It may get a little hotter while under WOT, but should still keep it cool under normal driving.

 

Here's how it sits, completed. Its full of fresh e85, oil, and water. Attempted to fire it up earlier today and the battery just didnt have enough juice. Was able to get some oil moving, TPS autoset, and fuel primed. Ordered a Noco jump box to try again tomorrow.

 

I keep a Noco battery tender on my car at all times, works great.

 

I had a tender specifically for lithium batteries (anti-gravity battery) but I wasn't able to find it. I have a regular one but don't want to keep it on that one because I'm afraid of it frying the battery. I'll order another one soon.

 

Its ALIVE!!!!
I was having trouble getting it to fire off. Not sure if i just needed to add more fuel in the tune or the 210 injectors i got from a buddy are/were no good. Had a friend swing by some stock ls3 injectors and it kicked off almost right away. I did still have to add some fuel to get it to stay on and idle well. I dropped those 210s off to have checked/cleaned/flowed, so we will see.

It does have a small oil leak that i've almost gotten completely sealed up. Got crank on the AN line a smidge more.

Revs are nice and snappy with the solid roller in there. Overall, the exhaust is pretty quiet with the Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonators on there. Just has a deep, bass tone.

I did get to take it up and down the block and everything felt solid.

 

idle vid

 

So, I finally got word on my 210 injectors that I dropped off to be tested and cleaned. 6 of the 8 were locked up. After a day or so of soaking, only 1 other free'd up. So, those are junk pretty much. I placed an order for a new set from VS Racing. Should be delivered tomorrow.

Everything else is pretty much ready. Installed the dual 525s, installed the meth pump/tank/lines/relay, ordered a AEM 12 position switch and installed that, may have fixed the oil leak finally.

Just been letting it idle and stuff while I waited to hear about the injectors. I have some stock LS3s in there right now and those aren't even enough to go WOT if I was NA, lol. So didn't want to spend a lot of time getting these to drive knowing I was goin to replace them anyway.

Should be able to start doing some rips in this thing, if the weather doesn't turn to crap.

 

How does that work?

Why would you not use the BoV which you have anyway?

 

That was a comparison for the Smooth Boost that they sell for PD blowers. Electronically controls the wastegate to control boost. Centri guys use wastegates or dual chamber blow off valves to bleed off boost for traction, etc.