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Old Oct 24, 2024 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Bbknucks
I had a cutout on mine but kept bending the plate with the anti lag/rev limiter bangs...so I removed it... I miss the sound of the turbine with it open though
I want my 2-step to shoot fireballs or at least pop and bang so bad but I don't know how.
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Old Oct 24, 2024 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by The ******
I'd do 2" hotside with the billet VS 7875.
Response will be fast and carry you to your rpm limit easily.
Spend a little money on the down pipe too, maybe 4" from the turbo with a cutout of some kind under the truck then to 3" running out to the bumper.
A free-flowing down pipe will really help spool.
Your combo on pump gas I'd keep it around 10-12 psi, I push 14-15 psi with mine now but it's more of a top end killer with an A2W I/C so different combos.
You can always add a water/meth kit later for a few extra pounds and piece of mind.

wow, you really think 2” hot pipe?
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Old Oct 24, 2024 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Oneshotkyle
wow, you really think 2” hot pipe?
Oh yeah, my current car is a T6 setup with 2 1/4" hotside and it'll rev out to 7,500+ rpm easy.
You aren't anywhere that rpm wise or power wise so 2" would be ideal imo, easier to package and response would be fast.
Paging @Forcefed86 as he's actually used 2" before and can provide real world feedback.
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Old Oct 24, 2024 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by The ******
I want my 2-step to shoot fireballs or at least pop and bang so bad but I don't know how.
mine pops and bangs soo loud i feel its gonna blow apart
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Old Oct 24, 2024 | 08:58 PM
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What is a good quality cut out i should look for
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Oneshotkyle
What is a good quality cut out i should look for
I think location is most important, the farther is it from the turbo, the longer it will live.
A friend of mine had his right off the turbo, it lasted about a year before it stopped working.
I had mine right under the driver floorboard about where my feet were, and it was good for four years until I sold the car, still made a huge difference in spool with my full 3" exhaust.
Mine was an electric QTP, never gave me any issues, others who use them regularly like Badlandz as well.
There are also vacuum/boost operated ones if you don't want electric, I prefer electric because then I can open it up while idling through car shows.
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 09:22 AM
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Unless you are planning on over 900ish crank HP, 2" is plenty. You are just giving up response and real estate and money going larger in my experience. Makes a pretty big difference "spool wise" going from a 2.5" merged to a 2" divided. To the point you can run a larger T6 turbo for less overall back pressure and more power per pound. While having similar "spool" as the T4 in most cases. I ran 2" on a 370" motor no prob into the 8.6x range @ 160. Also on 4.8 and 5.3 setups to similar MPH all with 1.32 T6 S400 frame turbos.

If you want the pops and bangs in my (experience anyway) you need a decent amount of RPM and an aggressive cut RPM range. I don't have a Holley, but I assume the fields are similar to the megasquirt for "soft" and "hard" timing cut zones on the 2 step.

Last edited by Forcefed86; Oct 25, 2024 at 09:32 AM.
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 09:37 AM
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Makes me consider redoing my hot side... I made mine out of 2.5... is it significant enough of a difference to remake?
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 09:46 AM
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Kinda depends how nice of a hotside you made and how long it takes ya to make one. Its worthwhile IMO. But if I had a ton of hours in a nice SS TIG'd 2.5 setup, id roll with that. I mig'd a mild steel setup in a few hours with factory manifolds and it held up 8+ years or so on about 4 different engines. Wasn't pretty, but was super functional and bullet proof. Also able to double wrap it (or more) because its so tiny. So it was completely covered as well. I paint all my piping and wrap with BBQ paint. Makes it last a lot longer and sheds water/oil.
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Kinda depends how nice of a hotside you made and how long it takes ya to make one. Its worthwhile IMO. But if I had a ton of hours in a nice SS TIG'd 2.5 setup, id roll with that. I mig'd a mild steel setup in a few hours with factory manifolds and it held up 8+ years or so on about 4 different engines. Wasn't pretty, but was super functional and bullet proof. Also able to double wrap it (or more) because its so tiny. So it was completely covered as well. I paint all my piping and wrap with BBQ paint. Makes it last a lot longer and sheds water/oil.
so a 2” schedule 40 hotside remote mount makes sense. Thanks for posting

Last edited by Oneshotkyle; Oct 25, 2024 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Kinda depends how nice of a hotside you made and how long it takes ya to make one. Its worthwhile IMO. But if I had a ton of hours in a nice SS TIG'd 2.5 setup, id roll with that. I mig'd a mild steel setup in a few hours with factory manifolds and it held up 8+ years or so on about 4 different engines. Wasn't pretty, but was super functional and bullet proof. Also able to double wrap it (or more) because its so tiny. So it was completely covered as well. I paint all my piping and wrap with BBQ paint. Makes it last a lot longer and sheds water/oil.
I did the same... couple hpurs worth of mild steel on factory manifolds... i grafted a 3in schedule 40 90* to the passenger side and made the other side 2.5 in merge up into the bottom of the elbow.... was considering redoing this winter anyway to put the turbo inlet more into the fender vs so close to radiator
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Oneshotkyle
so a 2” schedule 40 hotside remote mount makes sense. Thanks for posting
Schedule 40 should support the weight of a 7875 on its own as well.
Use truck manifolds and if possible cut the pipe flanges off with them so then you just have to add pipe.
T4 Divided Inlet to 2" Schedule 40 Pipe Twin Ports Turbo Flange Merge S300 S366 | eBay
A divided T4 with a billet wheeled 7875 would spool stupid fast, my 2.25" divided T6 with a billet S484 turbo spools faster than my old merged 2.5" T4 cast wheel 7875 setup.
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Oneshotkyle
so a 2” schedule 40 hotside remote mount makes sense. Thanks for posting
Yes and no. Depends on the power level you want. Sch40 flows more because it has an actual 2" ID. 16g 2" exh tubing ID is like 1.8".

Remote mount is tricky because you are adding a ton of length to the system. Obviously a 10ft 2" system with a ton of bends won't flow like a short run with minimal bends. Also depends if you are dividing the system form each manifold as well. But yea, a 500-600hp setup would be fine with a 2" remote hotside if setup properly. Helped a couple build that exact setup.
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Yes and no. Depends on the power level you want. Sch40 flows more because it has an actual 2" ID. 16g 2" exh tubing ID is like 1.8".

Remote mount is tricky because you are adding a ton of length to the system. Obviously a 10ft 2" system with a ton of bends won't flow like a short run with minimal bends. Also depends if you are dividing the system form each manifold as well. But yea, a 500-600hp setup would be fine with a 2" remote hotside if setup properly. Helped a couple build that exact setup.
Remote mount as in not in the engine bay?
It looked like there was plenty of room in there?
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 10:45 AM
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This is a very nice piece.
Dual Inlet Divided T4 (shearerfabrications.com)
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Forcefed86
Yes and no. Depends on the power level you want. Sch40 flows more because it has an actual 2" ID. 16g 2" exh tubing ID is like 1.8".

Remote mount is tricky because you are adding a ton of length to the system. Obviously a 10ft 2" system with a ton of bends won't flow like a short run with minimal bends. Also depends if you are dividing the system form each manifold as well. But yea, a 500-600hp setup would be fine with a 2" remote hotside if setup properly. Helped a couple build that exact setup.
i plan on using holley manifolds so there 3” vband comes straight forward under heater hoses. I plan on installing a pass side a/c bracket and then the turbo along side that. Whatever it takes in length off holley vband maybe 12 to 18” of schedule 40 id suppose
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by The ******
Remote mount as in not in the engine bay?
It looked like there was plenty of room in there?

its going in engine bay alongside the pass a/c bracket i have to install

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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Oneshotkyle
i plan on using holley manifolds so there 3” vband comes straight forward under heater hoses. I plan on installing a pass side a/c bracket and then the turbo along side that. Whatever it takes in length off holley vband maybe 12 to 18” of schedule 40 id suppose
Okay so still in the engine bay, the closer to the engine the better.
I dunno man, that's a lot of coin.
I'd rather do factory manifolds for a fraction of the cost and put that money back into something else.
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 11:19 AM
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Also just planning on double vband 7875. Not a t4.

i have already puchased mac 3 port solenoids. VS racing said a 50mm wastegate. But whos wastegate is good quality?
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Old Oct 25, 2024 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Oneshotkyle
Also just planning on double vband 7875. Not a t4.

i have already puchased mac 3 port solenoids. VS racing said a 50mm wastegate. But whos wastegate is good quality?
VS isn't bad, a lot of guys use them, just pull it apart and inspect it first since it's a Chinese product.
I don't like to skimp on parts that can blow up my engine if they fail so I buy name brand wastegates.
I've run Tial and Turbosmart with great results, JGS also makes a good one.
If you're set on running the Holley manifolds, I'd get an elbow with the wastegate port right off the bend to give it the best priority.
You'll get the best boost control there.
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