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After its made, popping on an off a hard line with AN fittings and collars is just as easy IMO. Its is more durable and needs less attention than flex line too. Also seems to be the cast for aviation. They hardline all that they can. The Flex SS line has a life limit and needs more maintenance. Not always the easiest to plumb, but an oil feed off an LS is pretty easy/accessible IMO. I use push lock high temp hoses because I'm lazy. hasn't bit me yet!
After its made, popping on an off a hard line with AN fittings and collars is just as easy IMO. Its is more durable and needs less attention than flex line too. Also seems to be the cast for aviation. They hardline all that they can. The Flex SS line has a life limit and needs more maintenance. Not always the easiest to plumb, but an oil feed off an LS is pretty easy/accessible IMO. I use push lock high temp hoses because I'm lazy. hasn't bit me yet!
I work for a forklift manufacturer and one of the ways we separate ourselves from our competition is we use a lot of hardline for the hydraulics in our trucks.
More durable than rubber hose and allows us to create a laminar oil flow increasing performance and reducing energy consumption so I'm a big fan of hard line.
I just don't trust myself to make a hard line that looks good, I did my brake lines and I still give them side eye lol.
The Evil Energy stuff from Amazon is real good. Haven't had an issue with their lines and fittings. I get all my PTFE lines/fittings from them.
Same, only issues I ever had was with a fuel filter I bought from them which had metal shavings (long strings) in it from the lathe process that caused it to leak, and the o-rings were too small and would shrink when the car sat also causing a pretty bad leak when pressure was applied.
Replaced the o-rings with some thinker ones and cleaned it out, still working well to this day.
I should've checked it first but now I know to check anything from these Chinese sellers.
Sorry boys. Been sidetracked with updating my lil 3.5 dash to the 12.3 pro dash. Lots of wiring and updates to come for future turbo. Gotta get the dash painted black and that tilt installed still
So i haven’t ordered turbo or manifolds yet. Been busy on the pro dash and new tilt column to arrive Monday . I have heater delete plates to weld up firewall. This will give more room on the exhaust down pipe. I have since decided on no a/c which opens up the option of amazon/ebay turbo manifolds. All have 2.5 crossover with wastgate down below. Is this a no no? And then i would shoot for a 7875 billet with t4
So i haven’t ordered turbo or manifolds yet. Been busy on the pro dash and new tilt column to arrive Monday . I have heater delete plates to weld up firewall. This will give more room on the exhaust down pipe. I have since decided on no a/c which opens up the option of amazon/ebay turbo manifolds. All have 2.5 crossover with wastgate down below. Is this a no no? And then i would shoot for a 7875 billet with t4
That wastegate location is sus, I know its a lot more money but I'd be looking at something like the Summit manifold below. Summit Racing SUM-G9300 Summit Racing™ Pro LS Turbo Manifolds | Summit Racing
Another gent on here bought the CX Racing setup because it was cheaper and then ended up heavily modifying it to make it work right.
I could see you using the eBay setup and having boost control issues and you end up having to modify it to make it work anyway.
That wastegate location is sus, I know its a lot more money but I'd be looking at something like the Summit manifold below. Summit Racing SUM-G9300 Summit Racing™ Pro LS Turbo Manifolds | Summit Racing
Another gent on here bought the CX Racing setup because it was cheaper and then ended up heavily modifying it to make it work right.
I could see you using the eBay setup and having boost control issues and you end up having to modify it to make it work anyway.
ive thought about blocking of ebay crossover and putting gate in a flange to flange spacer with gate in between. or weld to turbo housing.
ive thought about blocking of ebay crossover and putting gate in a flange to flange spacer with gate in between. or weld to turbo housing.
You can certainly put the wastegate directly on the turbo, lots of guys have done that and it works very well.
My only thought was if you wanted to sell the turbo later then you'd be unable to or at least, have a more difficult time is all.
Also toss those cheap gaskets it comes with in the trash and get some MLS ones.
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hasn't bit me yet! 
