My 6.2 bronco is almost finished then I am going to build my dream car …a 98-02 WS6. I also had my c6 z06 built before I sold it. Also had a whipple on my gen 1 6.2 raptor.

My goal is about 600whp but a clean powerband and good midrange. My initial plans are todo a ls3 based engine for a pro charger or a aluminum 5.3 for turbo, mamo heads, whatever the best manifold for the application is, tick t56 magnum, undecided rear end, and pretty much all the standard bells and whistles.

Should I go twin turbo or pro charger? This is where I’m hung up. I’m inclined to go pro charger being from Kansas City. I wanted to support a local business and I’m very familiar with their products. The fun part: this car will be a dual purpose build. It won’t just be straight line. I’ll be carving the mountains here in the Pacific Northwest. I need reliability above all else.

 

I almost always prefer turbos, but for a lot of driving in the twisties, it would be hard to beat the predictability of the procharger boost. At the low boost levels needed for 600rwhp, I don't see where belt slip should be a big issue like it can be at higher levels. A turbo (or 2) would have to be sized properly for the combo to avoid acting like some of the 80's cars that were widely known as widowmakers.

 

My last car was built for the curves (I also live in the PNW unfortunately) which was an 02 Camaro SS six-speed car and with a turbo the power delivery wasn't very linear which is also turbo dependent.
I had the LS1, T56 and a basic 7875 set at 14lbs. so about 700whp and it would come on so hard in the lower gears you really had to be careful coming out of a corner or even just going straight with a normal summer radial like the Nitto NT05.
It had 295 fronts and 315 rears and was still a real handful.
@gametech is 100% accurate regarding his widow maker comment, the guy I sold the car to wadded it up in less than a month.
If it were me, I'd go Procharger, keep it around 600whp as planned, fully upgrade the suspension, install a Watts link out back, upgrade the cooling system and have a good time.
Buy a driver seat with good bolstering too, my biggest problem was keeping myself planted in the seat during hard cornering.
Honestly now that I think about it, a rowdy stroked NA LS3 would be a ton of fun too, might not get you all the way to 600whp but it would be close, more reliable and easier to manage.

 

As a turbo guy, that turbos everything (including his turbos), I'd say at 6.0 with rectangle port heads and an LSA blower is the way to go for strong midrange and predictable power.

 

widowmaker is what I want to avoid. I’d rather not go tumbling down hurricane ridge. My last GTO would kick out the rear like crazy. Did not like. My z06 was manageable.

my thought after this post was to dial it down a bit and just do a big *** NA motor. I bought a motor for my z06 from a member here due to block damage. I had a 434ci and made 550rwhp. It was SMOOTH. Maybe I just recreate that. But I really want boost.

 

Just to argue, id say you don’t need a big motor, blower, or heads to be snappy and reach your goal easily.

I’d run an alum gen4 5.3 bone stock with a cam and springs. Then run an S369-s371 turbo. No need for heads with those goals. That turbo will light off violently and will be plenty snappy.

 

Everyone on this forum will always recommend turbo. Keep that in mind.

 

There's a good deal on a 750hp 416" pump gas motor in the sales forum right now.

 

416 on 91 octane with 100% stock LS3 heads/intake with a BTR Stage3 cam made 560rwhp on 91 octane in my buddies C10 thru a T56 Magnum and 12 bolt running 335/30/18 tires. Super simple combo with no overheating issues to worry about plus you shave easily 50lbs off the front end from the required supercharger/mounts/intercooler etc. It isn't really even worth going forced induction for only wanting 600rwhp IMO.

 

Other than a huge cost difference. A bone stock 4.8 with a 170$ china 78/75, no intercooler, $150 camp, and $80 BTR “LS6+” springs will make 600whp easy and cost diddly.

LS3 anything any you are into 3-5x the cash as a small bore motor here. Then get into stroker cranks, pistons, rods, machine work etc to get to a 416? Gets ridiculous pretty fast. No less cool, but an odd way to make 600 hp IMO.

 

Prochargers always seem to bring cooling challenges in some form.

 

False.

My IAT's are never an issue with just an air to air intercooler and I can sit in traffic on a 100 degree day with my ECT never going over 185 degrees. This is with a hood on my car. Only people I've known with heating issues and needing to run without a hood are turbo cars.

I can make a test pull or pass at the track and check my plugs with no issues immediately because under hood temps are cooler. I've never enjoyed changing plugs on a turbo car right after a pass if I even could at all.

Anyone that tells you under hood heat is more of a problem with a procharger than a turbo is either lying or has never had a procharger personally. I've had a turbo car, big inch stroker NA, nitrous combo, and a procharger. I prefer the procharger over all of them by a landslide in a daily capable car or even a race car.

The only combo I haven't personally owned is a twin screw.

I'm not saying a procharger is the best option for the OP's needs but I will not keep my mouth shut when I see false information being spread.

I do find it interesting for you of all people to state this since I’ve seen your posts about your personal over heating problems with your turbo car and having to run without a hood to keep temps down all this and you don’t even live in a hot weather high humidity state. You also run an air/water inter cooler. Nothing about a Procharger increases ect under normal driving in any temps so if they had an issue something else they’ve done caused it

 

The way you aggressively defend Procharger's honor makes me think you own a significant amount of stock in the company lol.
It's not false though, your car is not a 4th gen F-body so it's completely different.
The OP is building a 4th gen so in this case its absolutely applicable and should be mentioned.
The guy I bought my current car from which is a 4th gen, ran a Procharger on it and the way you have to configure the fans (you have to remove one of the two) to run a D1SC will cause the ECT to run hotter, not the under-hood temps.
To be fair since you mentioned it, my current turbo configuration has never overheated, never gotten over 200 degrees, never melted anything, I pulled the hood because I have no AC/heater fan and my feet would get warm in the summer, plus it looks cool which was the main reason, it didn't have to be done but I wanted to.
I could fully wrap the hotside which would really help bring temps down, 80% of it is not wrapped, just haven't done it yet because it's not that big of an issue.
For the record if you scroll down, I still recommended the OP go with a (takes a deep breath, swallows turbo pride) Procharger in this case so what's the problem?

 

@NoGo you're running a Procharger in your Fbody right?
What has been your experience with coolant temp issues, had any at all or have you found ways to mitigate them since you're making a lot more power than the OP is wanting?

 

I’m sorry you feel Im too aggressive and I’m sorry I offended you by calling out your lies. Your past posts are there I pulled my comments from your own previous posts.

The Procharger didn’t cause over heating removing a fan did which further proves my point that they did something else to cause over heating.

of course im always made out to be the bad guy. Have a nice day.

 

Bit of a silly argument. Either setup may or may not have cooling issues. My hooded turbo RX7 would cruise at 165* on a hot summer day with adequate fan/radiator/pump. It also would overheat prior to me installing better cooling equipment. Same can be said for any setup.

To me, the bottom line is always getting the most for my money and time. A turbo is more efficient and MUCH cheaper. If you have a mig welder and an ounce of talent… turbo over blower hands down value vs performance. Even if you had to buy a mig welder, you'd still be money ahead!

That said I’ve had blower cars too and they are plenty of fun and easier to install. Esp. the cool self-contained units they have now. Also just something super pleasing about the sound they make...(Had a P600B unit, which was the loudest "whine" on the market at the time I believe). But centri blowers don’t make instant boost like so many think. Only positive displacement blowers have instant boost and NA “table top style” dyno graphs.

IMO though paying 6x cost (or more) makes that installation advantage null and void. I can mig together a hotside in about 3 hours with factory manifolds for very little money. (and very little welding talent). Not to mention all the cheap aftermarket log manifolds available.

An S480 is more capable than a D-1sc and the clones can be had for $450 shipped from common suppliers like VS racing. (cheaper from ebay or aliexpress). Compare that to 6-7-8k+ D1sc kits… and there really is no comparison. Not to mention rpm dependent boost and the belt drive losses with a blower.

Some of the HUGE blowers are in a different class and just as capable as turbos in drag races. (and better in some ways) But the cost of those units are ridiculous.

 

American made costs money that’s for sure. The new F1r-103 looks interesting f1x power in an f1a size. No belt drive issues for me way over spinning the f1a-94 on an 8 rib. No reason to run cooler than 185 ect. I’ve drove to the track 2 hours each way in the summer no issues.

 

You gotta relax guy, I was just teasing you a little bit, no one is saying you're the bad guy here or that you're wrong.
It's okay to disagree but calling me a liar for posting feedback from people who have first-hand experience just makes you look less credible.
The 4th gen Fbody D1SC Procharger kit comes with a fan shroud that replaces the factory twin fan setup with a single fan so I'm not sure how you can blame the user for that?
The car doesn't overheat but the ECT's can run hotter and if you're running the car hard it can be more difficult to keep the ECT's in line, that's all I was saying.
It sounds like you've never had any experience with the 4th gen Fbody platform, not sure why that's my fault or makes what I'm saying false.
I hope you have a nice day as well and will continue to share your experiences/knowledge.

.

 

Reliability above all else and carving mountains in an f-body, keep it naturally aspirated. If you are actually leaning on it carving mountains it's going to overheat with boost regardless if it's turbo or a blower in that car, those cars just don't have enough airflow for cooling boosted setups that are not just drag raced or regular street use. Also reliability above all else, I don't care how good of a tuner somebody is a boosted application is going to be more volatile than a naturally aspirated one.

 

how’s ground clearance?