Turbo dilemma
It all depends on your total setup. Steep gears, lightweight car, and small turbo with a stock cam would be an entirely different conversation. Your situation is almost the opposite of that. And as it is now, the turbo will play no part in the initial off-idle takeoff during normal street driving. Luckily you have a decent size motor, but it is still a heavy truck and the 4l80 still has a tall first gear. The fact that you are putting a turbo on a larger than stock motor tells me you want at least decent performance when just driving around, and a higher stall will help a lot with that. Just stay away from the budget brands that drive like mush or you will be spending money again on a better one in no time.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 234
Likes: 16
From: South dakota
It all depends on your total setup. Steep gears, lightweight car, and small turbo with a stock cam would be an entirely different conversation. Your situation is almost the opposite of that. And as it is now, the turbo will play no part in the initial off-idle takeoff during normal street driving. Luckily you have a decent size motor, but it is still a heavy truck and the 4l80 still has a tall first gear. The fact that you are putting a turbo on a larger than stock motor tells me you want at least decent performance when just driving around, and a higher stall will help a lot with that. Just stay away from the budget brands that drive like mush or you will be spending money again on a better one in no time.
All of you, thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 234
Likes: 16
From: South dakota
At wot, out of boost (with pump gas) it should be in the 12's (I like 12.5:1 personally) but in boost, it better be in the 11's. 11.9 is good on 1-2psi but I start fattening it up as boost goes up. I run a touch over 20psi and its around 10.6-10.8:1 (this is what I do, its worked for me for years without having to replace a head gasket). 14psi will be around 11.2:1. So as you can see as I go up in boost, I go up in fueling. You see 14.xx afr in boost....you better let off quick.
14.7:1 is good for idle and cruise (very light load). I I increase load, I add a little fuel.
14.7:1 is good for idle and cruise (very light load). I I increase load, I add a little fuel.
having fueling at 14.7 at wot is asking to destroy an engine. That’s waaaay too lean. 14.7 is meant for light loads only, idle-cruise-light acceleration.
It all depends on your total setup. Steep gears, lightweight car, and small turbo with a stock cam would be an entirely different conversation. Your situation is almost the opposite of that. And as it is now, the turbo will play no part in the initial off-idle takeoff during normal street driving. Luckily you have a decent size motor, but it is still a heavy truck and the 4l80 still has a tall first gear. The fact that you are putting a turbo on a larger than stock motor tells me you want at least decent performance when just driving around, and a higher stall will help a lot with that. Just stay away from the budget brands that drive like mush or you will be spending money again on a better one in no time.
Honestly, when I said low end converters, I was referring to stuff like TCI or generic converters that feel like complete mush and don't pull at all until you are almost at stall speed. Those type of converters are why lots of people think a stall over 3000rpm is completely out of the question on a daily driver. I haven't really kept up with the various good name companies in years, but I used to like the Yank converters. Back then Vigilante was the only popular brand that I found to be garbage.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 234
Likes: 16
From: South dakota
I don’t understand the last part of your question, but the examples I gave are what “I” run on my boosted 5.3 gto. That has kept my engine together for at least 5 years.
having fueling at 14.7 at wot is asking to destroy an engine. That’s waaaay too lean. 14.7 is meant for light loads only, idle-cruise-light acceleration.
having fueling at 14.7 at wot is asking to destroy an engine. That’s waaaay too lean. 14.7 is meant for light loads only, idle-cruise-light acceleration.
The reason you have your fuel afr where it is, is because 14.7 at WOT is a lean condition
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Launching!
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 234
Likes: 16
From: South dakota
Honestly, when I said low end converters, I was referring to stuff like TCI or generic converters that feel like complete mush and don't pull at all until you are almost at stall speed. Those type of converters are why lots of people think a stall over 3000rpm is completely out of the question on a daily driver. I haven't really kept up with the various good name companies in years, but I used to like the Yank converters. Back then Vigilante was the only popular brand that I found to be garbage.
Call FTI for a converter for your 4l80e. I had a Circle D in my 4l80e and it was way too tight. I called FTI and they hit the nail on the head! I'm right around 3200-3400 and it gets my turbo spooling much faster
Honestly I think that can happen with any manufacturer. My son has a triple disc circle d in his truck and its tight driving it around, actually feels fantastic, like stock, but when you stall it or put the hammer down, it works amazingly compared to the fti (he destroyed) and the yank (he also destroyed) he previously had.
Honestly I think that can happen with any manufacturer. My son has a triple disc circle d in his truck and its tight driving it around, actually feels fantastic, like stock, but when you stall it or put the hammer down, it works amazingly compared to the fti (he destroyed) and the yank (he also destroyed) he previously had.
I sent my Circle D back because I thought there was an issue, turns out the trans was cooked.
Circle D sent me a shipping label though for $50 which was great, they got it turned around quickly and have been great to deal with which is why I recommend them.
Technically I'm over the recommended power limit for this converter but it seems to be working pretty well still with slip in the 7-8% range up top iirc.
Be really curious to see what it does at 20-25lbs. with the meth running.
I tried contacting PTC several times but was never able to reach anyone unfortunately.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 234
Likes: 16
From: South dakota
I have not, there is a local guy thats been around for awhile, and also has an awd capable dyno. I'm also good friend with Brett McClelland, worse case I'll have him look it over.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 234
Likes: 16
From: South dakota
I came across a turbo, with the following spec
Comp Inducer: 80mm
Comp Exducer: 98mm
Turbine Inducer: 82mm
Turbine Exducer: 75mm
Housing A/R 1.01 or 1.15
My current turbo;
Comp Inducer: 80mm
Comp Exducer: 117mm
Turbine Inducer: 96mm
Turbine Exducer: 88mm
housing A/R 1.30
would i see much of a difference between a 1.15 housing and the current 1.30?
Comp Inducer: 80mm
Comp Exducer: 98mm
Turbine Inducer: 82mm
Turbine Exducer: 75mm
Housing A/R 1.01 or 1.15
My current turbo;
Comp Inducer: 80mm
Comp Exducer: 117mm
Turbine Inducer: 96mm
Turbine Exducer: 88mm
housing A/R 1.30
would i see much of a difference between a 1.15 housing and the current 1.30?
I came across a turbo, with the following spec
Comp Inducer: 80mm
Comp Exducer: 98mm
Turbine Inducer: 82mm
Turbine Exducer: 75mm
Housing A/R 1.01 or 1.15
My current turbo;
Comp Inducer: 80mm
Comp Exducer: 117mm
Turbine Inducer: 96mm
Turbine Exducer: 88mm
housing A/R 1.30
would i see much of a difference between a 1.15 housing and the current 1.30?
Comp Inducer: 80mm
Comp Exducer: 98mm
Turbine Inducer: 82mm
Turbine Exducer: 75mm
Housing A/R 1.01 or 1.15
My current turbo;
Comp Inducer: 80mm
Comp Exducer: 117mm
Turbine Inducer: 96mm
Turbine Exducer: 88mm
housing A/R 1.30
would i see much of a difference between a 1.15 housing and the current 1.30?