talked to the guys at vsracing and they recommended a 7875 next gen with T4 1.25 for my cammed 6.0 with ported heads running on E85. Does anybody know of a good kit that they would recommend for this single turbo set up? It will be going to a colorado or a canyon so things may be a little tight. Just wanted opinions on cast log manifolds versus tubular. Looking to make 900 rear wheel horsepower

 

No need to use anything but factory OEM manifolds fit your specific application. 900WHP is a lot. You would be leaning on that turbo heavy to hit those numbers. Well past its eff range. Lots better choices IMO for a 900hp 6.0. spend the $ where it matters, not on manifolds. Usually do more harm than good there w crappy plug access and poor fitment. Manifolds and hot/cold sides should really be made to fit the setup they are going on. Universal fit manifolds and kits usually suck IMO.

 

Thank you so much for the reply! After doing a little bit of research it definitely seems like that would be the ragged edge for that turbo. What is a better option in your opinion? VS racing 80/89 Billet Gen3 DBB 1.01 T4 divided?

 

Really depends on your goals and application. If its mainly a drag car with a properly spec'd converter and a trans brake, I'd never put a T4 on any V8. I could easily spool the 1.32T6 S480 on my 4.8. Big exhaust housing and big turbine means less back pressure and more power per pound of boost. It also lets you run a much more aggressive overlap cam. Which again will give you even more power per pound of boost. No reason to limit a drag car with a t4.

If its mainly for the street, 900hp is a pretty lofty goal and pretty unnecessary as you'll have to run things like traction control, boost by speed etc to ramp in power more slowly for traction and it owudl only see the full 900whp at 60-70+mph and up. Another reason T4's better response generally aren't necessary.

But yes. If you are set on a T4 that 80-89 is much better. Though ball bearing stuff is not usually rebuildable or with the cost over journal bearing stuff IMO. I'd be looking more along the lines of their 1.32 T6 S485 for a 6.0.

VSR stuff is great for the money but it doesn't perform like legit race turbos. A Forced Induction "race" S482 will stomp the VSR S485. It will make more power and do it more quickly. Kinda get what you pay for there.

As an extreme example, l I run twin 78/75s on my cam only 5.3. I have no issues spooling them on a trans brake with the right converter.

 

this will be in a t56 manual Chevrolet Colorado 2 wheel drive. It will be driven on the street a lot, and drag strips on the weekends.

 

On a street driven manual, I would always err on the side of smaller for a turbo, unless it is a strictly roll racing type of venture, but that is just me.

 

900whp on a 2-wheel drive manual Colorado will be all but useless.
Bring that down to 700-750whp and run the 7875.
Way more fun, much easier on parts and way easier to package.
My last car was 700whp with a T56 and the buyer wadded it up in less than a month.

 

I don't think people understand what needs to be done to A T56 to make it live at 900whp in a 3500lb car. Its not cheap. Strictly for $ reasons, I'm not a fan of a manual trans on any turbo car personally. Not to say they aren't fun... Just not your bast bang for the buck when you start getting into decent power. I'd pick a glide if under 3000lbs. TH400 if over. Even then you are in $2-3k for a decent trans. Much more if you want a really stout "reliable" one.

Look at TSP's line. Basic T56 rated for 850ftlb is $8k. Their 1250ftlb top of the line deal is $12.3K.

Plus big bucks on a clutch/pressure plate/flywheel setup. Folks need to be realistic with their goals.

 

100% Correct
The T56 design is maxxed out around 700wtq.
Will they take more?
Yes, but they wear quickly and a rebuild will cost you about $2,500 at least.
Decent twin disk clutch, easily $1000+, triple disk more like $1,500.
I'd source a Level 2 or 3 T56 or Magnum, keep the power around 700whp, Monster makes a twin disk for that level that is pretty reasonable price wise and works very well for the street.
Then there's the fun factor, turbo stick cars are fun, they're rowdy, definitely require skill to manage but a turbo auto car is flat out fast.
My previous T56 700whp car was fun and pretty quick, my 700whp TH400 car is on another level.
If I were going to spend T56 money, I'd look at a 4L80E (the 80E will have the ability to downshift where the TH400 won't) or even the Dodge 8 speed or the GM 10-speed autos.
There's a guy doing the 10-speed swap into a 4th gen, doesn't require any floor mods, he's building the controller, and the trans stock will hold big power.

 

You guys are right, I guess I am shooting for the stars. will the 7875 easily be spooled, or at that rate, should I actually step down to the 7675 (either way, attempting to achieve 750whp at peak power)

 

With the 6.0 the 7875 is a good bang for the buck street turbo that should still spool very fast.

I have this turbo, no experiences running it yet but should be very similar to the 7875. I liked it because its Vband. I'm running it on a 5.3. I too am aiming for 700whp.

https://turbo4less.com/product/vsr-8...ons-available/


If you want good street response use a "long runner" intake manifold (like a stock ls6). Don't get stupid with the cam either, the Truck Norris or Summit 8720r1 would be nice off the shelf options. You should still get to 6500rpms easily which is also plenty of rpm.

 

I have a tbss intake, and was going to go with a mild BTR camshaft. I really like the turbo you have selected as well! Which a/r etc did you end up going with and why?

 

@rel3rd has run a 7875 on his 6.0 for some time now, he'd be a good one to ask about how well it works and what you can expect.
TBSS intake will work great, I'd ask around on the cam.
You don't want too much or you'll choke the turbo sooner with that 6.0.
Don't worry about the cam rpm range, mine states peak power at 6,500rpm but it'll pull all the way to 7,500+rpm, a good flowing turbo will do that.
@Forcefed86 Would agree keep the hotside piping small (2-2.25") and a nice big down pipe (3.5-4") ideally with a cutout or fender dump.
750whp with a six-speed in a little truck is going to be a ton of fun, invest stock in your favorite tire company lol.
For a clutch I recommend the Monster twin disk LT1-S iirc, stock pedal effort, low noise (twin/triple disks always make a little noise), will use the factory master and slave and their support is great.
The big single disks tend to require a lot of pedal effort which gets old in traffic really fast.
Also invest in the Tick remote bleeder, makes bleeding the slave by yourself a breeze.

 

I selected the 1.25ar. I had the cheapest 7875 .96ar that VS makes and did 550whp running out of fuel through 3" exhaust. I could tell I was close but wanted a little more. Thats why I went with this one. I have a Huronspeed kit and am going to run their 4" bumper exit to get the most out of it. I think 700whp is right in the zone. I could push it more but like these guys said 700 is a lot of power. People don't realize how butt puckering it is. Lol


But anyhow, you can verify with Viren @ VS but I think this thing is roughly equivalent to the Gen 3 7875 they sell just with vbands and slightly different compressor wheel. It should boogie.

 

I always +1 any mention of installing a remote bleeder, because it really does make that much difference. In other news, opinions vary, but even though they are great for performance, I would hate to have a fender dump on any mostly street vehicle. That gets old quick. As much as I loathe dealing with twin setups, I went twin turbo on my last build simply because I could not see how to get a big enough single downpipe and still be able to run a reasonable exhaust out the back.

 

Different strokes for different folks right lol.
My last car had a cutout which was open way more than it was closed, the only time it was really ever closed is when I was evading the fuzz.
Current car has a 4" dump right in front of the passenger tire and I love it.
My son and I cruise it all the time and while it is loud, it's not so loud we can't have a conversation while going down the road.
For the best of both worlds, I'd recommend a large diameter 4" downpipe with a cutout of some kind at the end and tee off from that into a smaller 2.5"-3" exhaust out the back.

 

I had a 7875 on a 6.0 with a t56 then a magnum behind it. Boost came in violently. For a street car 900 hp is pretty useless and if you do have traction the t56 wont like it much. Thats why I switched to the magnum.

Car was a blast on the street though. i wouldnt want a giant turbo on a manual car for the street.

 

I will be going with the magnum, the question now is, do I want a T4 or do I want a T6 turbo of similar specs until I decide to go bigger/make changes in the future?

 

I have t4 now but am planning on switching up my setup and will be goin with a v band

 

If more power is in your future which for turbo guys it always is, then I'd go T6.
My last car was a T4/M6 car and past the 7875 your options get really limited and expensive, a T6 flange opens up a lot of options.
Build the hotside for the T6 with a T6 flange and then use a T6 to T4 adapter for the 7875.
Then when you're ready, remove the adapter and run a T6 and make more power.
If you go T6 I'd look at something like the FIS S476R with a smaller turbine in the 85mm range, that Betty will make a ton of power as the boost goes up.