After 15 years of being out of the LS1 game I recently purchased a 2001 SS auto. Its completely stock with 42k miles (with the exception of long tubes and a Magnaflow catback) but after driving it I'm firmly in the "it needs more power" camp. I've yet to go the supercharged route in a ls, so I feel its time. The goals for this build are finding the "ideal" combination of price/efficiency/hp. Like many here, I see it as a challenge to make the best all around street performer on a reasonable budget (let's call "reasonable" somewhere around $10k over and above the Procharger kit). In the last few weeks I've gotten serious about research, but the more I learn the more I realize that things have changed a lot in the 15 years I've been absent from the platform. I'm looking for practical advice on achieving my goals as listed below:

Retain the stock bottom end with a healthy margin of safety
No radical heads and cam packages (been down this road and sold the car immediately afterwards due to the lack of drivability)
P1SC supercharger kit with base intercooler package
Peak hp/tq numbers are not the goal here. I want usable power at low to mid-rpm ranges as this is a street car. Drivability is my #1 concern (the closer to stock the better)
Not hacking up the car for an LSA swap

I would like to address the following areas of the car on this build.

Heads/cam/intake
Trans/Stall converter (would like to keep the trans stock other than converter and shift kit)
Fuel system (I suspect I will need larger injectors)
Other mods that will be required to meet more goals or will improve drivability/efficiency/reliability

To sum up the intent of this post; if you were building this car given the goals I've stated above, how would you do it?

Thank you for your advice

 

I guess it depends on your budget, ability. Procharger is more expensive, but don't have to deal with all the plumbing of a turbo (don't know what kind of car). A small tubo would be a lot cheaper, but into plumbing. I have used a couple of the Summit ghost cams, as I like to be able to lock the converter w/o drivability issues. If the stock motor is healthy, just boost and valve springs, rest stock would prob get you close. Fuel system upgrade of course.

 

Thanks for your reply. I have also looked at a Huron Speed T4 kit but have very little knowledge on turbo's so it was not really a serious idea for me but based on your comments maybe I should do some additional research. This is going into a 4th gen F-body. Motor is healthy other than a lifter that I will be replacing when I dig in. Is there any meaningful power gains updating H/C/I on a LS turbo? I would assume so, but again, I'm new to this side so maybe it's just not worth it. Thanks for your help

 

Keep it simple with the engine, cam and springs, do heads later.
Deka 80 injectors and a Walbro 255 or 340 should do the trick and be an easy upgrade.
The trans and diff will be the weak points for sure; those can fail with just the stock HP levels so don't abuse them once the blower is on.
Then get the trans built, they can be built to handle 600-700whp without spending a fortune.
Diff will require replacement, lots of options there especially if you can scoop up a used one. Keep a summer radial on until then, if the tires are spinning then the rear end is living lol.

 

If you can weld and fabricate turbo is by far the cheapest way to make power . Could even do a rear mount- check ddnspider's rear mount out . Converter and fuel system are going to cost no matter how you make power . Don't see a power goal but a small cam and springs with boost will make a lot of power in a very usable rpm range . My cam&springs lq4 is up near 800 crank hp now ( currently upgrading turbo ) drives like a stocker , gets 18 mpg in a 4500 lb truck and has been reliable enough for 3500 mile road trips and 35000 miles so far

 

I didn't even think about a rear mount which for him might be ideal, much less fab work involved, and he can leave the cooling system up front alone.
A little Turbonetics TC7868 might be the ticket, fast spooling and small size.

 

Thanks for input on supporting mods. So if I decided to go single front mount turbo all the info I'm getting from Boost lab and Garrett turbo "calculators" for my goals is showing something similar to a GTX3076 as the ideal sizing. I KNOW that I won't be chasing peak hp numbers later, just want something that's a lot of fun around town and has stock like driving characteristics. Given everyone's experience here does that sounds like a reasonable size? Garrett's are quite pricy so if you have any suggestions on more cost effective (no chinese/ebay type units please) then I am all ears. Thanks guys.

 

I will admit turbos are reliable and cheaper than a procharger but imo they are over played. I expect every built f body these day to pop there hood when they have an intercooler and have a turbo never a procharger. They are much more budget friendly than a procharger too. You also have to remember the more power you make boosted whether it’s turbo or procharger the more power it makes boosted. Been proven time and time again. In the end a nice head cam ls1 nothing wild and 8-10 psi would be a very fun street car

 

Well, after finding a deal on a Huron Speed V3 T4 kit locally that I just couldn't pass up it looks like I am going the turbo route. I am aware of the install requirements for this kit and the need for a new k-member (A/C Retained). After doing more research I think I'll roll the dice with a VSR 7875 Billet G2.5. My motivation has changed to keep this more of a budget build so based on what I've read this unit looks like a good compromise on price/quality/performance. Please correct me if I'm wrong...

I've also considered adding a mild turbo cam (i.e. TSP Stage 1 or similar) which I know will require new springs and supporting valvetrain components, will go head studs, and will also require a converter. I figured I would also update the timing chain while I'm in there, but from a fuel standpoint am I still good with the 80lb Deka's and a single walbro pump with this setup? Any other items I'm missing besides BOV and Wastegate or that make sense to do now while she's torn down?

Thanks

 

You do know your rolling the dice if you don't plan on gapping the rings?

 

I've had no issues with VSR stuff , works great and reliable. I'm sure there is better available but in a very different price range . How much power or et goal are you looking for ? There's more money to saved if the goals aren't crazy ...
- keep the cam at .550 lift and use ls6 springs , stock rockers and pushrods
- helping a friend with a budget build and chose a summit 209/217 .550 " IIRC with ls6 springs , stock everything else
- with a small cam you might get away with the stock converter, my 6L 214/214 combo actually drove quite well with the stock 80e converter and that's at about 4600 lbs and 3.73s with 30" tires
- leave the heads on with the stock gaskets and bolts
- the deka 80s will be fine but you could even use stock decapped units ( mine are truck injectors that I decapped and sent 16 to Derr injector service for 120$ they are cleaned , flowed and shipped back )
- depending on power level a 340 or 450 pump
-what's the mileage on the engine? High mileage helps open the gap a little, I didn't gap mine , it had 180k on it and I didn't think I would be going over 12 lbs boost LOL - Hitting it with 17.5 last yr
-way back the sts kits were used on new ungapped engines and were about 7 lbs of boost , so there's that
- I would invest in a simple W/M kit , it may be why my combo has lived so far
- hope this helps

 

Power goal is 500-550 whp but with a fat torque curve. I don't care to go much beyond that. I've been looking at some of the summit "truck cams" with lower lift thinking they may be what I'm looking for but it may be that I don't need a cam at all. Still trying to figure that part out. I plan on sticking with stock heads now but will use head studs. It's an 01 auto with 40k miles.

 

That's very low mileage!
550whp will be no trouble, you could use a single 450 or 525 but you'll need to upgrade the wiring as the stock wiring won't handle the amp load. Racetronix makes a great hotwire kit or you can make your own. A friend of mine runs a single 525 on his boosted 00 TA around 12-13 lbs and he says it works fine.
How it drives is mostly in the tune, I don't run a big nasty race cam, but it has a lot of chop and still drives just fine. I'd find a Stage 1 Turbo cam from any of the well-known providers and keep moving.
Start looking to have the trans beefed up though, those 4L60E's are quite fragile in stock form.

 

Thanks. I'll look into the Racetronix hotwire kit. After calling a few turbo manufacturers and explaining my goals they all suggested a 7875 turbo so I picked up a VSracing 7875 Billet G2.5 this morning.

I've been searching for the "right" cam for a while but I think I may have found one yesterday which looks like it could be a good fit. Details are below, if you have any thoughts on it (goal is to retain as close to stock driveability wise). Thanks!

• Advance: 0
• Cam Type: Hydraulic Roller
• Duration @ .050: 225*/230*
• Duration Advertised: 290*/294*
• Grind Number: LSRH-290-3A
• Gross Lift: .578/.578
• Lobe Center: 114
• RPM Range: 2500-6800

 

That doesn't look too bad, mine is similar but with more duration, lift and a 115 LC.
RPM range is also similar but with a turbo you can usually squeeze more rpm out at peak.
Lower lift number means it won't be hard on valve springs which is nice.
Here's a link to a build I did some years ago that will have some good info for what you're doing.
2002 Camaro SS AC Retaining Turbo Build - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
You'll have to relocate some items like the cooling fans but nothing you can't handle.
Be warned, lots of guys come in here just wanting a fun streetcar making a little boost myself included.
What starts out as a modest 500-550whp goal can quickly become an LFG 900-1,000whp goal.
Ask me how I know lol.......

 

Haha. I know how the scope creep can get out of control. Getting older now so I've learned a few lessons, lets see if I can remember them a few months from now.

Is the cam really worth it in my application of the stocker? If it will make a noticeable difference through the power band I think it would be, but if I'm really only seeing gains over 5k rpm, not entirely sure it's worth the upgrade for me. I know it's all subjective but the information seems to be conflicting on this one with many saying the stock cam is sufficient for these power goals.

 

So, for me personally, I like to take things as far as I can and if it were me with your goals then I'd leave the stock cam.
Will a dedicated turbo cam make more power, sure but ultimate power isn't your current goal.
Get some drop in springs, maybe do head studs and see what it makes.
You should be able to get up around 10lbs. pretty safely on pump gas and that might be enough for now, you can always do the cam later.
Just the turbo will be enough to break everything south of the engine if you aren't careful, so I'd get it running with the turbo, have a little fun while collecting parts for the trans, build the trans, have more fun maybe add the cam and some other items and see where it goes.
There's a set of FIC 80lb. injectors for sale in classifieds as well right now.

 

Sound advice. Should save me me additional down time as well. I didn't find the injectors but I did find your posting and am interested in the gauges and EBC. Can you shoot me a PM to discuss? Thanks

 

I have a stock cam 6.0 LQ4 and 7875 in my '61 Chevy pickup. At 9psi it is absolute straight up giggles on the street. I have zero intention of taking it to any track and have zero complaints. The stock cam made it EASY to tune, and it is VERY driveable. Heck - it's even 1100rpm tootling around in town, 2200rpm on the highway - no need for more cam for the 99.99% of low-rpm driving that I do.

It really all depends what you want, what your goals are, and what you want to give up.

I am looking forward to reading your build!!

 

We agree with the others here, the stock cam is just fine for your goals.

At 500-550whp with a 7875 and 8-10 psi, you don’t need to reinvent the wheel. The factory cam works really well under boost and will keep the torque curve good down low, where you actually drive the car.

Would we love to sell you a cam? Heck yeah. But we also respect when someone has a clear direction for their project. No need to tell you that you have to buy "XYZ bumpstick" because it’s the best thing ever.

If it were ours:

• Drop-in LS6 style beehives, which have been proven to safely raise the rpm capability over the stock LS1 springs
  
• Head studs
  

Good fuel system, good tune, and go enjoy it. You can always cam it later if you decide you want more rpm or more power. For what you’re describing, the stock stick isn’t holding you back