427 LS1

iTrader: (10)

We just got off the dyno, it's was a completely stock 2000 Camaro Z28, now it's running 6 psi on the standard STS kit(60-1/.81 housing) on crappy 91 octane CA gas. 21 degrees of timing and running out of air at 5500-5600 rpm. It really needs an LS6 intake. I think the intake should bring the numbers up nicely and maybe a .96 exhaust housing. We also put in 42# injectors and a Racetronix fuel pump system. Drivability is great, and it feels really strong.

lock down

not bad for a completely stock z28 dam. What do you think the ls6 intake and lt with true duals would do?

trtturbo

iTrader: (25)

Most stock LS1's are in the 400 - 420 range @ 5psi.

2FAST4U

Am I lost or some thing true duals on a rear mounted turbo? Why? And for 6psi that isn't so bad! I have to say I am a strong HATER of the STS kit,but I am trying to be fair here! I would like to see big numbers on this kit!

F8L Z71

I assume you are using the base 60-1 turbo? If so I feel that is why your #s fall off on the top end. All the base kit dyno sheets I have seen do this. The A/R is choked down on it to aid in spool time that it kills top end power... The LS1 intake isn't whats causing it IMO... I have a truck intake which is even more restrictive on the top end and I could still pull flat to 6700rpm on my GT35.

Nice #s

F8L Z71

Actually on second thought that sheet looks different.

Why does TQ not spike up fast like normal? What was max timing you guys ran?

oxidizr

iTrader: (4)

You have an automatic (at least in your truck) and the converter flash is what you are seeing as the spike. This car was a 6 speed.

F8L Z71

Sorry, I dont mean like a typical converter spike. I meant the TQ jumps up and stays there. Doesn't it do that with a 6-spd also? Not counting that small blip I had in the begining of the run at 4200rpm.

Like this...

oxidizr

iTrader: (4)

The converter will allow the torque to spike and hold then drop off as a normal curve ... the "unlocked" condition @ wot makes that possible. Had you forced the converter into lockup the charts would look more simliar. Also if you look at the ranges the charts cover and look at the numbers the curves look much more similar .. the 6 speed curve starts at 2500 and yours is at 4000+ ... look at the 4000+ mark and they lok very similar.

Richard

F8L Z71

Ahh ok. Makes sense Thanks for explaining.


So this was on the 60-1 turbo though right?

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

21 degree's of timing on 91 octain I can only get the STS at 5lbs to hold 16 degree's under boost on 93 octain with AF at 11-1

CHRISPY

It is a BONE stock Z28

427 LS1

iTrader: (10)

It was a STOCK Z28. We had very little knock - 1.7 degrees and no audible knock on the street pushing it pretty hard. I think it's on a very safe tune, IAT maxxed at 137 degrees but usually in the 120's. If the top end didn't drop off like that I think there is 30 hp at least up there, probably a lot more!

The next one we're doing is my car, it will consist of:
370 cu in.
6.0L Block 4.030 bore
H Beam Rods w/ L19 rods bolts
Billet Stock stroke crank
Stg. 2 Ported Heads
8.6:1 compression
T70 w/ .81 or .96 housing
12-15 psi
6 speed
12bolt 3.42 gears

We'll see what that one does!!

Blackbird

yah a 12:1 A/F and 21 degrees of timing on 91 is really, really, pushing it.

if that was tuned on a dynojet I fear for that persons engine on the street.

427 LS1

iTrader: (10)

We're going back to the dyno today to get the AFR closer 11-11.5 and pull the timing back to 16 degrees or so. Also it was dynoed with the sock on the air fillter so that will be coming off as it restricts at the upper RPM, isolate the exhaust a bit better so it's not getting spent gases recirculated and see what happens, I'll post an updated graph, ASAP. Dave

Blackbird

smart move IMO.
can't wait to hear the results.
good luck!

eas020223

Yes the camaro is all stock except for the fuel pump and injectors. It use to have loudmouth and a air intake on it but had to lose that to the turbo. Oh by the way ls1 427 im very pleased with the #'s great work.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Dave,

just from reading others experiences, do you think changing the valve springs (minimum work) would benefit at all? And then upgrade the fuel pump to at least a Wlabro 340m model or equivalent?
I personally wouldnt remove the sock for any reason, unless there is an alternative, like a shroud or something, tune it like it will be run. Is the sock going to stay off for daily use?
Have the plugs been changed to like a TR6 or something as well, and gapped accordingly?

All too often ppl are claiming ALL STOCK, then later their discliamer comes out, well it had an ls6 intake, tr6 plugs @ .031", headers, a mild cam or WTFE. So asking for more in depth picture of this.

Thanks.

Charlie

427 LS1

iTrader: (10)

Charley, I spoke with Rick at STS and he asid NEVER dyno with the sock on, it makes the turbo work a lot harder and also said only use the sock on the street if you have to, due to weather conditions or what not, I guess it chokes the turbo quite a bit, The main reason I want to dyno it with the sock off is to see if the top end picks up or not, so we'll know if that was the reason for the sharp drop off after 5500rpm. Changing the valve springs is only going to help if we change the cam or want to run more RPM than stock, neither of those applications apply...at least yet. We did put TR6's in gapped .030. In terms of stock I'm guess I'm more referring to the engine it's self, intake manifold, heads, cam, shortblock, etc. We're going back at 5:30pm today so I'll inform you guys of the results.

SSnakekiller

iTrader: (8)

Sock is really only for harsh weather conditions. In fact, we have tested the kit without the sock through hard rain for extended periods of time and the only prob we had was the filter getting dirty sooner. We are in Florida so we know hard rain!

Better to tune with the sock off, to be ultimately safe. This allows you to tune for max airflow. If you tune with the sock on, then when you run with the sock off, you may run slightly more lean than what you tuned for.

Your Boost vs. IAT vs. Advance seems to be close, but advance could come down a little for safety. I would say around 19 degrees or so with high 11's AFR. If you are not seeing over high 130s IAT then that should be a good tune.