STS Dyno Numbers!!
STS Dyno Numbers!! 
We just got off the dyno, it's was a completely stock 2000 Camaro Z28, now it's running 6 psi on the standard STS kit(60-1/.81 housing) on crappy 91 octane CA gas. 21 degrees of timing and running out of air at 5500-5600 rpm. It really needs an LS6 intake. I think the intake should bring the numbers up nicely and maybe a .96 exhaust housing. We also put in 42# injectors and a Racetronix fuel pump system. Drivability is great, and it feels really strong.
Last edited by 427 LS1; Oct 24, 2004 at 11:58 PM.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: F.H,Waterford,Port Huron, MI
Am I lost or some thing true duals on a rear mounted turbo? Why? And for 6psi that isn't so bad! I have to say I am a strong HATER of the STS kit,but I am trying to be fair here! I would like to see big numbers on this kit!
12 Second Truck Club
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Sacramento, CA
I assume you are using the base 60-1 turbo? If so I feel that is why your #s fall off on the top end. All the base kit dyno sheets I have seen do this. The A/R is choked down on it to aid in spool time that it kills top end power... The LS1 intake isn't whats causing it IMO... I have a truck intake which is even more restrictive on the top end and I could still pull flat to 6700rpm on my GT35.
Nice #s
Nice #s
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12 Second Truck Club
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Sacramento, CA
Sorry, I dont mean like a typical converter spike. I meant the TQ jumps up and stays there. Doesn't it do that with a 6-spd also? Not counting that small blip I had in the begining of the run at 4200rpm.
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Originally Posted by F8L Z71
Sorry, I dont mean like a typical converter spike. I meant the TQ jumps up and stays there. Doesn't it do that with a 6-spd also? Not counting that small blip I had in the begining of the run at 4200rpm.
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Richard
I can only get the STS at 5lbs to hold 16 degree's under boost on 93 octain with AF at 11-1 
It was a STOCK Z28. We had very little knock - 1.7 degrees and no audible knock on the street pushing it pretty hard. I think it's on a very safe tune, IAT maxxed at 137 degrees but usually in the 120's. If the top end didn't drop off like that I think there is 30 hp at least up there, probably a lot more!
The next one we're doing is my car, it will consist of:
370 cu in.
6.0L Block 4.030 bore
H Beam Rods w/ L19 rods bolts
Billet Stock stroke crank
Stg. 2 Ported Heads
8.6:1 compression
T70 w/ .81 or .96 housing
12-15 psi
6 speed
12bolt 3.42 gears
We'll see what that one does!!
The next one we're doing is my car, it will consist of:
370 cu in.
6.0L Block 4.030 bore
H Beam Rods w/ L19 rods bolts
Billet Stock stroke crank
Stg. 2 Ported Heads
8.6:1 compression
T70 w/ .81 or .96 housing
12-15 psi
6 speed
12bolt 3.42 gears
We'll see what that one does!!
We're going back to the dyno today to get the AFR closer 11-11.5 and pull the timing back to 16 degrees or so. Also it was dynoed with the sock on the air fillter so that will be coming off as it restricts at the upper RPM, isolate the exhaust a bit better so it's not getting spent gases recirculated and see what happens, I'll post an updated graph, ASAP. Dave
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Joined: Oct 2004
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Yes the camaro is all stock except for the fuel pump and injectors. It use to have loudmouth and a air intake on it but had to lose that to the turbo. Oh by the way ls1 427 im very pleased with the #'s great work. 
Dave,
just from reading others experiences, do you think changing the valve springs (minimum work) would benefit at all? And then upgrade the fuel pump to at least a Wlabro 340m model or equivalent?
I personally wouldnt remove the sock for any reason, unless there is an alternative, like a shroud or something, tune it like it will be run. Is the sock going to stay off for daily use?
Have the plugs been changed to like a TR6 or something as well, and gapped accordingly?
All too often ppl are claiming ALL STOCK, then later their discliamer comes out, well it had an ls6 intake, tr6 plugs @ .031", headers, a mild cam or WTFE. So asking for more in depth picture of this.
Thanks.
Charlie
just from reading others experiences, do you think changing the valve springs (minimum work) would benefit at all? And then upgrade the fuel pump to at least a Wlabro 340m model or equivalent?
I personally wouldnt remove the sock for any reason, unless there is an alternative, like a shroud or something, tune it like it will be run. Is the sock going to stay off for daily use?
Have the plugs been changed to like a TR6 or something as well, and gapped accordingly?
All too often ppl are claiming ALL STOCK, then later their discliamer comes out, well it had an ls6 intake, tr6 plugs @ .031", headers, a mild cam or WTFE. So asking for more in depth picture of this.
Thanks.
Charlie
Charley, I spoke with Rick at STS and he asid NEVER dyno with the sock on, it makes the turbo work a lot harder and also said only use the sock on the street if you have to, due to weather conditions or what not, I guess it chokes the turbo quite a bit, The main reason I want to dyno it with the sock off is to see if the top end picks up or not, so we'll know if that was the reason for the sharp drop off after 5500rpm. Changing the valve springs is only going to help if we change the cam or want to run more RPM than stock, neither of those applications apply...at least yet. We did put TR6's in gapped .030. In terms of stock I'm guess I'm more referring to the engine it's self, intake manifold, heads, cam, shortblock, etc. We're going back at 5:30pm today so I'll inform you guys of the results.
Sock is really only for harsh weather conditions. In fact, we have tested the kit without the sock through hard rain for extended periods of time and the only prob we had was the filter getting dirty sooner. We are in Florida so we know hard rain!
Better to tune with the sock off, to be ultimately safe. This allows you to tune for max airflow. If you tune with the sock on, then when you run with the sock off, you may run slightly more lean than what you tuned for.
Your Boost vs. IAT vs. Advance seems to be close, but advance could come down a little for safety. I would say around 19 degrees or so with high 11's AFR. If you are not seeing over high 130s IAT then that should be a good tune.
Better to tune with the sock off, to be ultimately safe. This allows you to tune for max airflow. If you tune with the sock on, then when you run with the sock off, you may run slightly more lean than what you tuned for.
Your Boost vs. IAT vs. Advance seems to be close, but advance could come down a little for safety. I would say around 19 degrees or so with high 11's AFR. If you are not seeing over high 130s IAT then that should be a good tune.