am looking to get 525-550 rwhp. Know I am going with Kooks LTs and true duals, 12 bolt, clutch, nitto 555 DRs, 90mm Fast Intake manifold and throttle body, and a lid. I think i wanna run a stock Cam. Was wondering what supercharger and head setup would get me to my goal. Is there any thing i am leaving out, suspension ect? Thanks.

 

D1SC should do the trick just fine.

Remember you will need tuning software, injectors and possibly a low impidence converter box to get the most out of a setup like this.

 

I'd say go with the D1sc Procharger. If you looking for one let me know. I have one brand new with self tuner kit, 8 rib pulley, two air to air coolers. These system has never been ran. Also it comes with warranty. ITs still at the shop htat I got the system from. The reason Im selling this system is because my car is at Pro Turbos Kits right now and thats what Im going with insted. Im asking 4700 + shipping. Let me know. Thanks.

 

is the D-1SC kit street legal?

 

Where?
It does not have a CARB Exemption, but the P1-SC does.

 

what vendor sells that kit? Do i still need a fast 90 mm im and TB?

 

A few... Thunder and TByrne are 2 that I know off the top of my head. check the vendors>>>>
No you do not need the FAST stuff, especially if you have an LS6 intake.
Tuning + Fueling (injectors and pump) is what you will need >5+ psi.

 

so aside from that kit
full exhaust
the ls6 intake
a clutch
12 bolt
DR
and a lid
and some suspension stuff(SFC ext..)
what else would it take to reach my goal.

 

A lid why do you need a lid. You are bolting the tubing to the Maff. The lid is eleminated.
Here is a list of what u will need
Clutch $500-1200 depending on witch one u get. Remember you get what u pay for
Rear $2,000
Drive shaft $400
Injectors $380
Fuel pump $150
Headers $500
Rest of the exhaust 600-1000
Fuel rail $100-150
Heads 6.0 to lower the CR $200-300 for stockers and 1300-1800 for ported ones
Blower $5,000

So $9,730-$12,580 not installed or taxed or shipped.

That is also saying that your motor will last a year for you to save up enuff to build a forged motor. Keep your foot off the gas.

 

On the stock cam, at 525-550RWHP the LSX setup will not buy you anything, you would just be wasting your money. Use your stock TB, and if you dont have a ls6 manifold, get one, if you have one that is more than sufficient.

They key to what you are asking is reliability. Running a D-1SC would require 8 lbs or more on the stock cam and bottom end to get to 525-550 RWHP. 8psi is the absolute threshold for reliability on the stock bottom end.

There are many on top of many people here running more than 8lbs on a stock bottom end, but they are doing it at great risk and are asking for trouble. You can do it, but you dont leave yourself any room for error. You can be the judge of that. If you back off some on the boost, you will be able to take it to the track and run all day.

You have a better chance of hitting your mark if you split the cam up say 226/234 .595?/.600? on a 115/116/or 117 LS. You will want more lift on teh exhaust side than intake side. This will be manageable, and still idle really nice. It will allow you to build boost. You are also better off releaving pressure off of the piston by going with a head that has a bigger chamber. 6.0 or so. LS6 truck head. It has the bigger exhaust port which will help in getting the exhaust out of the chamber.

This is a guideline, not an exact science.

 

And to hit it home with goober35, stealing someones quote:
"take the price that you were planning on spending on your FI setup, and times it by 3."

It was a lot more expensive then I thought it would be. And gets exponentially more so the higher the boost goes.

 

Bingo. I thought my Mechine work was going to be 400-500 it was 850. I have $5300 in to a motor that is not even in my car yet. I still have to buy the turbo , BOV, Gate, Tubbing, IC, ECT ECT ECT and then i have to build my kit. I will have $15,000 easy into my car when i am done.

 

The D1sc is street friendly. I had the F1 set up and I was driving it everyday.