ChevyNo1

I didn't really want to push it last nite, being I haven't had it for a year I want to enjoy driving it for a while before I push the envelope.

Bottom line is 538rwhp, 586rwtq. This is on 91 octane, no alky on this setup, and just a hair under 10 pounds of boost. I'm going to list the differences between the old setup and the new, then post up dyno sheets. I'm not happy with these #'s, but there are a couple of reasons.

Old Setup
------------
Stock block, 918 springs
Alky injection ( 15gph )
12psi boost
42lb injectors

New Setup
-------------
370ci iron block, 8.7:1 CR
222/218 563/563 114LSA
TEA 6.0L unported, o-ringed, 2.02/1.60 valves ( not positive on intake, what's stock? )
NO alky injection
10psi boost
60lb injectors

Here are the dyno sheets:

Old:

New:

The as you can see, I'm making a LOT less torque around 2500 than I was on the last combo, partially due to the 8.7:1 CR. Not real happy about that. BUT I think my other MAIN problem is the passenger turbo, you've probably seen my other post.

I've got oil leaking from the turbo, and it's making it's way into the host leading to the intercooler ( not a lot ), as well as into the exhaust, as within 30 seconds of a cold ( several hours ) startup it blows blue-grey smoke, but only for about 10 minutes, then it's gone. But on the dyno I noticed the boost coming up really slow, and they should spool even quicker on this bigger motor.

Sooo, it appears that the turbo is not working anymore. I don't know if it has bad seals, or it's not getting scavenged properly, or what. If I assume it's just the seals and fix it, this may happen again. Bottom line is the turbo is full of oil for whatever reason. Got the car up on ramps ( back end of car on ground ) and disconnected the oil feed line for that turbo from the distribution block by the oil filter. Nothing came out, so it appears the checkvalve is functioning properly, unless the car needs to be level for it to leak.

Need help!!!!

- Dug

99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

Get your 2nd of the two turbos to work, then you should be good.

eviltwins

Trust me, you didn't lose over 150 ft-lbs of torque at 2500 RPM's because you went down 2 full point's in compression, that is crazy to think that. Most of it is the turbo, the torque graph shows you that boost is coming on later, there is no way a sub 2 point drop in compression paired with 24 extra cubic inches is going to cost you 150 ft-lbs.

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

pm'd you

ChevyNo1

I agree. Pretty sure the pass turbo is doing nothing for me right now, going to test that theory tonite!

NicD

iTrader: (7)

Yup, one turbo definately isn't working properly causing the huge spool time. Same situation as last time when the c-clip popped off the actuator.

ChevyNo1

Yep! I did verify that the same thing did not happen this time; everything is hooked up and moving properly. Gonna fake out the driver's side turbo into not building boost, that will tell me quickly!

- Dug

Race Car Driver

Numbers seem a little low to me. JMHO.

ChevyNo1

Yup, I agree! Pretty sure it made these #'s on only one turbo however.

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

nah theres no way it would take that long for a turbo that small to spool... Sounds like one of them might need to be rebuilt.

ChevyNo1

Does anybody have ANY idea what it might cost to have this type of turbo fixed?? Or recommendations of who? I'm thinking of Limit Engineering in Lake Havasu AZ

red ws6 99

If you have to get rebuilt, I would Limit Engineering. Should not cost that much for a couple of seals to rebalance the CHRA.

Gary

Race Car Driver

BTW, I would have no hesitation asking APE to build a motor for me.

TwnTrboCE

iTrader: (43)

I guess you'll find out with your test. But I don't think one turbo can support almost 600rwhp. How much timing were you at with the old and new?

ChevyNo1

Yes, I'm very happy with the motor so far . . .

- Dug

ChevyNo1

Yea, I figure the turbo has got to be doing SOMETHING, albeit not much. And if the housing IS full of oil, that would certainly impede spool times . . . That test will tell the tale of what it's doing. I think previously I was at 15 degrees peak torque; we may have that up to 18 or 19 now.

99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

Did you test anything tonight, Dug?

ChevyNo1

Naw, things didn't work out as I planned, but I work from home today, after lunch I'll be able to try it out, I'll let ya know how it goes.

- Dug

MadBoost

Dug,
Did you check both actuators to make sure they are hooked up and opening at the same time? Then just run thru the system and make sure none of the hoses blew off. Mine would blow off at the driver side inlet to the *** pipe.
For the passenger intercooler, drill a small hole on the front lower section of the bottom tank and drill and tap for a 6mm bolt as a drain hole. Open the hole, put a drain pan under it and start the car. Most of the oil in the hose from the compressor to intercooler will be forced out. I would replace the oil check valve as I know my car and Mike's car both had them stick open while sitting for extended times. The cartridges themselves started coming with restrictors built in at the time of the LS1 kits but LPE adds about a .026 restrictor to each oil inlet of the turbo if memory serves me correct. The only other oil issue i ran into is with the use of the weldon pump. If you are using this scavenge pump, you should also be running a one way check valve (maybe .5 psi crack pressure) between the pump and the oil pan so the oil cannot run back down to the passenger turbo while sitting.
On another note, what was the reasoning on the camshaft you went with?
Hope this all helps and I will keep thinking a little deeper on this.

Tom Porter

ChevyNo1

Hey Tom, thanks a bunch. Found out yesterday why the driver's turbo is not boosting. The damn actuator is REALLY loose. Only one bolt holding the bracket to the turbo, and it's stripped. Murphy's law. Can't get a tap in there so I'm thinking of a self-tapping bolt, and then use the existing bolt in the other hole. That should fix that.

You know, I was going to ask you what prevents oil from draining back through that scavenge pump into the turbo . . . where would I put that checkvalve? One the connector that goes into the oil pan? Any suggestions on where/what brand checkvalve?

I picked the camshaft I did after calling Cam Motion and Comp Cams. They asked me a bunch of questions, I gave them the answer, and they both spec'd out pretty well identical cams. Do you have another suggestion?

I found the actuator problem while running my tests . . . when only the driver's turbo was boosting, it almost went to redline just to see 5psi when the controller was set to 10.

- Dug