Incon Guys Within Please!!
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Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Incon Guys Within Please!! OK . . . what exactly is that sound ( and it sounds like mostly driver's side ) where it's blowing off boost? I've got this sound that doesn't sound like anything I've had before. I can cruise down the street in 2nd gear and just let off the gas so it pulls a vacuum. Then I hear this 'psssshhh' sound, every few seconds . . . almost sounds like one of those state fair rides.
I also did some tests to see if the passenger turbo really is doing nothing. It is the driver's side!! I faked out the drivers actuator to 10psi so it wouldn't build boost, expecting to see no boost ( or little ) from the passenger turbo. Uh-uh, it's building fine! Switched, so now the passenger turbo shouldn't build boost, and the boost came on REALLLLLY slow for the driver's side. I'm thinking that since it's only affecting that side, if it were a boost leak, it would only be between the turbo and the intake, including the intercooler. Is there an easy way to test if I have a leak? What else would cause it to build so slowly??
- Dug
I also did some tests to see if the passenger turbo really is doing nothing. It is the driver's side!! I faked out the drivers actuator to 10psi so it wouldn't build boost, expecting to see no boost ( or little ) from the passenger turbo. Uh-uh, it's building fine! Switched, so now the passenger turbo shouldn't build boost, and the boost came on REALLLLLY slow for the driver's side. I'm thinking that since it's only affecting that side, if it were a boost leak, it would only be between the turbo and the intake, including the intercooler. Is there an easy way to test if I have a leak? What else would cause it to build so slowly??
- Dug
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Also . . . who of you have the turbular k-member? Which brand? And after installing it, was there anywhere the hoses ( turbo -> intercooler ) were still crushed? Or can you replace them easy with the new k-member?
- Dug
- Dug
I used a PA Racing k-member. But the rear a-arm pocket has to be clipped to clear the Incon kit. This then means that you have to use tubular a-arms as well. The stock ones will no longer fit. The only place that still remains tight is where the inlet tube goes between the block, k-member and rack. Unless your running A/C. Then that is still a tight fit between the compressor and K. But none of the charge pipes are effected.
Does the turbo spin freely? What about shaft play? If these things check out I would say you have a leak somewhere. Possibly IC? If you don't see any holes in the tubing.
Does the turbo spin freely? What about shaft play? If these things check out I would say you have a leak somewhere. Possibly IC? If you don't see any holes in the tubing.
i have BMR and I had to get it clipped for the passenger turbo as well. Mine makes the psss sound too. Sometimes when it goes into lock up mode (a4 tranny) it will shhh shhh shhh
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From: Phoenix, AZ
OK guys, thanks a lot . . . how much weight can I save with this k-member? And would you recommend the PA over the BMR, or vice-versa? What are the cost differences, and who can I get the best price from?
Well, found out why the driver's side is not boosting . . . the actuator is loose! So when it builds pressure, the actuator actually moves and allows it to bleed off boost. There is only ONE bolt holding the bracket to the turbo, and of course ( Murphy's law ) it's stripped. Can't get a tap in there, not enough room. Would you suggest a self-tapping bolt?
- Dug
Well, found out why the driver's side is not boosting . . . the actuator is loose! So when it builds pressure, the actuator actually moves and allows it to bleed off boost. There is only ONE bolt holding the bracket to the turbo, and of course ( Murphy's law ) it's stripped. Can't get a tap in there, not enough room. Would you suggest a self-tapping bolt?
- Dug
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Originally Posted by ChevyNo1
OK guys, thanks a lot . . . how much weight can I save with this k-member? And would you recommend the PA over the BMR, or vice-versa? What are the cost differences, and who can I get the best price from?
Well, found out why the driver's side is not boosting . . . the actuator is loose! So when it builds pressure, the actuator actually moves and allows it to bleed off boost. There is only ONE bolt holding the bracket to the turbo, and of course ( Murphy's law ) it's stripped. Can't get a tap in there, not enough room. Would you suggest a self-tapping bolt?
- Dug
Well, found out why the driver's side is not boosting . . . the actuator is loose! So when it builds pressure, the actuator actually moves and allows it to bleed off boost. There is only ONE bolt holding the bracket to the turbo, and of course ( Murphy's law ) it's stripped. Can't get a tap in there, not enough room. Would you suggest a self-tapping bolt?
- Dug
I have one of the original PA k-member and a-arms chromoly before they got new ownership. Welds look like crap, fitment sucks (passenger side shock mounts had to be dilled out, because they were off by 1/8" and a few other issues. I have 12000 miles on them with no issues, and lots of big pot holes. I actually blew-out a front Hal a couple of week ago but the k-member and a-arms are fine. So based on that they can't be to bad. As far as weight probably 35-40 lb off the front of the car ( maybe a little more). As stated you will have to get at least the passenger side back control arm mount modified. PA modified mine on both sides no cost.
Gary
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I just installed 2 of there mild steel K's this past week. Both fit and looked real good. The rack was a little troublesome. Getting the bolts lined up on both required some leverage. But nothing to bad. One was for an Incon car. Just let Jason know when you order and they will clip the corners for ya.
I just installed 2 of there mild steel K's this past week. Both fit and looked real good. The rack was a little troublesome. Getting the bolts lined up on both required some leverage. But nothing to bad. One was for an Incon car. Just let Jason know when you order and they will clip the corners for ya.
Originally Posted by ChevyNo1
Thanks Mike! Did this work with the stock a-arms, their site said it would.
- Dug
- Dug
Then a custom alignment. Might want to check around your area to see who will do it. Most shops in my area won't touch it if it isn't stock. 
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From: Las Cruces, NM
Originally Posted by ChevyNo1
Sounds like a lot of work!!!
I got my alignment in-spec just by making the new a-arms the same length as the stockers. I had it checked but did not need to have anything done. Since its non stock a lot of shops will charge the price of a 4 wheel alignment instead of the standard two wheel.
Gary