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Need help- to much oil?

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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 07:59 AM
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Default Need help- to much oil?

I just got my rear mounted turbo done and I now have an oiling issue. I'm using -4 line from the fitting above the oil filter and an 1/8 npt fitting directly into the turbo. I then have a tilton oil pump back into the pan for a return. Everything works great except that I now have a puddle of oil that forms under the turbo after I have shut it off, do I need a restrictor or something to stop the oil after I shut the engine off? I even rerouted the pressure line with a loop by the turbo to stop it from drainging in from above but it still leaks. I even took the return line off and it still formed a puddle. Are the bearings getting washed down or is a seal bad or?? Can someone please help me here?
Wolfee
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 08:19 AM
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I Know it needs a restrictor. Use a .035 diameter hole. Mcmaster-car sells them. Get one in brass. If the turbo still leaks then you will need the bearings or seals replaced.
I blew out two turbos with my remote kit the same way.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 09:51 AM
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Uh, where in the heck is the oil emerging from the turbo? Sounds more like a loose line. If you were over-oiling the turbo, and not leaking it out, it would be smoking BIG-TIME! Just ask the resident expert, SmokinHawk.

SC-
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:03 AM
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So do I need a restrictor on my car?

Feed setup is as follows.

4AN feed into a T with 2 4AN lines (One going to each turbo) then 2 seperate 10AN return lines.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SS00Blue
Uh, where in the heck is the oil emerging from the turbo? Sounds more like a loose line. If you were over-oiling the turbo, and not leaking it out, it would be smoking BIG-TIME! Just ask the resident expert, SmokinHawk.

SC-
I will try the restrictor first, it's actually leaking out of the exhaust side while setting after being run. When I start it up it blows the oil out but no smoke ever unless I rev it up hard after it has been running for a while. I haven't gotten on it to produce any real boost because of no tune.
Wolfee
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:11 AM
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You need a pressure check valve with 1-2psi cracking pressure (pressure needed to open valve). http://www.mcmaster.com/
go to page 384
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by trtturbo
You need a pressure check valve with 1-2psi cracking pressure (pressure needed to open valve). http://www.mcmaster.com/
go to page 384
You ROCK Thank you!!!
Wolfee
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 11:57 AM
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i would make sure the drain is alright first. Do you have a collector resivoir for the turbo drain? then the tiliton pump that. i believe thats how the incons were set up and the only problem they had was when the pump went out.

where did you put the oil return on the pan at is it above the oil level of the pan.

i would think putting a 1psi check valve on the return, or a restrictor may hurt instead of help.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinHawk
i would make sure the drain is alright first. Do you have a collector resivoir for the turbo drain?

No, should I?

then the tiliton pump that. i believe thats how the incons were set up and the only problem they had was when the pump went out.

where did you put the oil return on the pan at is it above the oil level of the pan.

I put a bulkhead bung through the pan as high as possible. Deffinately above the oil level.

i would think putting a 1psi check valve on the return, or a restrictor may hurt instead of help.
I just ordered the fitting from Mcmaster carr and it's going to be for the pressure side, not the return. The return is all -10 braided line.
Wolfee
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Boostaholic
So do I need a restrictor on my car?

Feed setup is as follows.

4AN feed into a T with 2 4AN lines (One going to each turbo) then 2 seperate 10AN return lines.
You shouldn't. I'm running a SS 1/4" line off the port above the oil filter to a T-fitting w/ -4AN feeds to the turbos and -10AN drains Mine are T4-based, but just a tad smaller than your 70s. I've seen similar on several cars. I would've liked to ran -3AN line instead of the 4, but I had a lot of 4 left over from some other projects.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 02:08 PM
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With the rear mount, you need a check valve to keep oil from flowing into the turbo when the car is off. With the check valve, oil will be right at the turbo, but will not drain into it until the car is started.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 05:38 PM
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I saw a guy on another forum that had that problem, he used a turbo timer to run the scavenge pump for about 20-30 seconds after the engine shut off to make sure no oil was left in the turbo(s). I think he said he got if from ebay for 20-30 bucks. That might help. But the pressure valves might work too.

Kyle
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 07:01 PM
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Good info, thx everyone!
We had some wiring issues with our STS oil pump, it was not on and "blew" oil out the turbo housing. Sprayed oil all over the driveway when started. The STS kit uses a push style pump after the turbo housing with gravity and engine pressure feeding the oil to the housing, so a restriction of some type in the return side or weak pump could also cause your symptoms.
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Old Mar 1, 2005 | 11:56 PM
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Wolfee,
Had the same problem, when I first fired mine up.. I had a -4 tee'd into (2) -4 feed lines. Turbos drain with (2) -10's tee'd to a single -12 and right into a "ignition on" Weldon 9200.. Had to change my feeds to -3 and everthing works perfectly. No check valves, no pressure switches, no timers, no restrictors.

My original set-up had a seperate self contained oiling system and it was a pain in the ***, way too much going on, so I went with the "less is more" philosphy this time. It is simple and it works perfectly!

Glad to see you are up and running!
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