Will this cam be a bad choice for ATI Procharger?
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Will this cam be a bad choice for ATI Procharger? I am about to install a TSP225 cam in my car on a 112LSA to give me more HP and TQ under the curve, but keeping the stock heads for now. I have casting 853 heads on my 99 TA. Cam specs below.
TSP Custom 225/225 Cam: 225/225, .589"/.589", 112 LSA
Question, in the future I plan to buy and install a ATI Procharger and run about 8 PSI. Is this cam a terrible choice for forced induction? I'm not looking to break records I just know that this cam is perfect for me now with stock or ported heads, but didn't know if I would have to toss it later when I upgrade to the ATI. This is a daily driven street car with power under the curve as a goal, not a drag car.
TSP Custom 225/225 Cam: 225/225, .589"/.589", 112 LSA
Question, in the future I plan to buy and install a ATI Procharger and run about 8 PSI. Is this cam a terrible choice for forced induction? I'm not looking to break records I just know that this cam is perfect for me now with stock or ported heads, but didn't know if I would have to toss it later when I upgrade to the ATI. This is a daily driven street car with power under the curve as a goal, not a drag car.
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Can someone recommend a cam for me? Let me give you the info.
I was going with the TSP225 112LSA or the TR224 112LSA for power under the curve and to build a street torque monster, not a drag car. What cam can I go with that will perform the same or very close to the TSP225 or TR224 and give me the added 4 degrees of exhaust duration and is 114LSA so I don't bleed boost in the high RPM range?
I was looking at the FM5 cam as the specs were
FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 224"/228" .588"/.576" 114LSA - aggressive profile with a 1800-6600 RPM range, fair idle
thinking that it was close to the other too cams that I wouldn't sacrifice much now for NA performance and I wouldn't have to change the cam later to get what I need for the FI setup.
I was going with the TSP225 112LSA or the TR224 112LSA for power under the curve and to build a street torque monster, not a drag car. What cam can I go with that will perform the same or very close to the TSP225 or TR224 and give me the added 4 degrees of exhaust duration and is 114LSA so I don't bleed boost in the high RPM range?
I was looking at the FM5 cam as the specs were
FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 224"/228" .588"/.576" 114LSA - aggressive profile with a 1800-6600 RPM range, fair idle
thinking that it was close to the other too cams that I wouldn't sacrifice much now for NA performance and I wouldn't have to change the cam later to get what I need for the FI setup.
Originally Posted by UnleashedBeast
Can someone recommend a cam for me? Let me give you the info.
I was looking at the FM5 cam as the specs were
FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 224"/228" .588"/.576" 114LSA - aggressive profile with a 1800-6600 RPM range, fair idle
thinking that it was close to the other too cams that I wouldn't sacrifice much now for NA performance and I wouldn't have to change the cam later to get what I need for the FI setup.
I was looking at the FM5 cam as the specs were
FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 224"/228" .588"/.576" 114LSA - aggressive profile with a 1800-6600 RPM range, fair idle
thinking that it was close to the other too cams that I wouldn't sacrifice much now for NA performance and I wouldn't have to change the cam later to get what I need for the FI setup.
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Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
You Want A Split Duration With About 4 More Degrees On The Exhaust Side, 114 Minimal On The Lsa. The 112 Lsa Will Bleed Off Boost At Higher Rpm Levels.
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its really not too much an issue. you dont need to open the intake as early as an NA application nor close it as late. The Futral FM7 cam is a good choice as LS1power will tell you, or you cna do countless not off the shelf grinds that should work great, Im testing one with some funky lobes right now
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Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
its really not too much an issue. you dont need to open the intake as early as an NA application nor close it as late. The Futral FM7 cam is a good choice as LS1power will tell you, or you cna do countless not off the shelf grinds that should work great, Im testing one with some funky lobes right now
Originally Posted by UnleashedBeast
But it I run the FM7 on my car NA will it be close to the low and mid torque say as a tried and trued tr224 or tsp225 with about the same curve?
http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedG...hoto&PhotoID=8
This one shows gains with the Headers, cutout, Lid and cam over Stock.
http://www.msnusers.com/CarsRelatedG...oto&PhotoID=10
As you can see there is plenty of low and mid range power to use until u boost the car with a blower. Good luck.
the reason you have a few more degrees on the exhaust is too allow the exhaust gases to get out since your pressurizing the intake. A square cam will work but won't be as efficient as a split duration cam with more exhaust. A 112 lsa will work but is sorta pointless cause the boost will be blowing right out the exhaust that it why you want to tighten it up to at least 114 but optimally 115/116.
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Basically it's the valve event overlap when the intake begins to open the exhaust has not yet fully closed and allows the pressure buildup to escape the cylinder through the exhaust port before the combustion process begins on the upstroke.
Now, I have done the math on some 112lsa cams and not all of them have overlap. Some have 0 and one had -1 degrees. I do see the point of a 114 lsa as the degrees of underlap fall to -2 and -3 on the cams I have been shopping for and will make sure no boost is lost due to bleeding.
Am I anywhere close on this or do I even know what the hell I'm saying.
Now, I have done the math on some 112lsa cams and not all of them have overlap. Some have 0 and one had -1 degrees. I do see the point of a 114 lsa as the degrees of underlap fall to -2 and -3 on the cams I have been shopping for and will make sure no boost is lost due to bleeding.
Am I anywhere close on this or do I even know what the hell I'm saying.
a 224/230 cam wont suck NA for now. doesnt cut into the power stroke much at all Like LS1 power said his car still made 395/380 lbs of torque or something when I dynoed it a year or two ago
heres a cam I cut for a blower motor in a truck. its for a slightly bigger motor, and the intake side is slightly skewed from what id normally do (to cut down on low end power and help out the maxed out blower) but give yo an idea: 230/236 .590/.609 lift 115 LSA, 4 degrees advance. Not XER lobes, intake lobe is as soft opening and closing as the slower XE LS1 series. Little bit more lift/duration etc then I would normally go with, but this cam should suit the next (aka REAL) motor going in it and the rpm itll support.. just retard the cam two degrees and try it in the big motor
heres a cam I cut for a blower motor in a truck. its for a slightly bigger motor, and the intake side is slightly skewed from what id normally do (to cut down on low end power and help out the maxed out blower) but give yo an idea: 230/236 .590/.609 lift 115 LSA, 4 degrees advance. Not XER lobes, intake lobe is as soft opening and closing as the slower XE LS1 series. Little bit more lift/duration etc then I would normally go with, but this cam should suit the next (aka REAL) motor going in it and the rpm itll support.. just retard the cam two degrees and try it in the big motor
Last edited by GrannySShifting; Mar 16, 2005 at 07:05 PM.
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Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
sure sounds like you know what you're talking about to me.
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Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
the reason you have a few more degrees on the exhaust is too allow the exhaust gases to get out since your pressurizing the intake. A square cam will work but won't be as efficient as a split duration cam with more exhaust.115/116.
I believe you'll sacrifice performance on the upper rpm range/top end. You won't be losing power there will just be a noticeable area where the graph wont make as much power. It'll work it just won't be as efficient.
