PTK LT1 car finall made a track pass with T88
#61
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
so w2a is better huh? Can't say that too loud here, everybody swears that air to air better here with the lower iat's.
some people are thick headed. I've said this a million times and I'll say it again. IF the car is PRIMARIALLY a street car, go with the A2A. It's simpler and avoids heat soak. Of the course of time on the road or @ a road course, you'll have nearly the same performance levles as when you just fired the car up (ITA wise). If you have a weekend warrior and you don't drive it that much or that often or it's primarily a STRIP car, then use the A2W2A because you can cool the ITAs A LOT with the exchanger. When someone finds out how to run both, now we'll be talking. Hey, that just gave me an idea, thanks Got Me SOM!
Last edited by smokinHawk; 04-01-2005 at 05:41 AM.
#63
Originally Posted by sb427f-car
some people are thick headed. I've said this a million times and I'll say it again. IF the car is PRIMARIALLY a street car, go with the A2A. It's simpler and avoids heat soak. Of the course of time on the road or @ a road course, you'll have nearly the same performance levles as when you just fired the car up (ITA wise). If you have a weekend warrior and you don't drive it that much or that often or it's primarily a STRIP car, then use the A2W2A because you can cool the ITAs A LOT with the exchanger. When someone finds out how to run both, now we'll be talking. Hey, that just gave me an idea, thanks Got Me SOM!
you wont get heat soak if you have a watercooler/heat exchanger.
water will take out heat alot faster then air.
with both systems properly designed the air to water will win out in any driving condition
#64
Originally Posted by smokinHawk
i suppose since you stated your opinion that it must be correct.
you wont get heat soak if you have a watercooler/heat exchanger.
water will take out heat alot faster then air.
with both systems properly designed the air to water will win out in any driving condition
you wont get heat soak if you have a watercooler/heat exchanger.
water will take out heat alot faster then air.
with both systems properly designed the air to water will win out in any driving condition
I agree with ya there.... for trach use a A2W is better and can get you a colder intake temp..... now for the street a A2A will work better longer then the A2W because once the water is heated up..... its over.
Kyle
#66
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
now for the street a A2A will work better longer then the A2W because once the water is heated up..... its over.
Kyle
Kyle
#68
if you have a fan on the heat exchanger and its getting good cooling air then it wont be too much higher then ambient.
the a2a will definatly be cheaper, cost always wins inproduction.
look at mightymouse's IAT he posted, even with just water in the system, not changing the water out and driving it on the street they stay as low as an a2a, maybe even lower.
the a2a will definatly be cheaper, cost always wins inproduction.
look at mightymouse's IAT he posted, even with just water in the system, not changing the water out and driving it on the street they stay as low as an a2a, maybe even lower.
#69
i like the design of my aftercooler, it runs to a cooler and is constantly being cycled. water never heats up. and i want some extra cooling i can dump some ice/ice water in.
#70
Originally Posted by JZ 97 SS 1500
Well guys my customer called this morning and was able to make a track pass with his 355 LT1 with the PTK kit and custom T88. Car ended up making 1012rwhp/909rwtq at 24psi. Its a full weight 3700 lbs car. Car was set at 24psi, on race fuel and ice in the intercooler. Anyhow, I will have the timeslip posted in a few mins.... For those that haven't seen the history behind the car, you can see it below....
http://forcedinductions.com/v-web/bu....php?p=335#335
Jose
http://forcedinductions.com/v-web/bu....php?p=335#335
Jose
Those results are beyond awesome! 1000 plus rwhp and 156+mph trap speeds is one bad futhermucker.
#72
That is AWESOME!
Take about 700 pounds out of that thing, throw in a 400 with brake and get back to the track! 165+ mph will be a joke!
I think a tranny change and leaving on boost will give HUGE drops in ET and better mph as well even at that heavy weight
Take about 700 pounds out of that thing, throw in a 400 with brake and get back to the track! 165+ mph will be a joke!
I think a tranny change and leaving on boost will give HUGE drops in ET and better mph as well even at that heavy weight
#73
Originally Posted by Nine Ball
Nice results Jose! I can't wait to get your kit on the hugger SS
Tony
Tony
If so what size turbo you go with??
Kyle
#74
Yes, I spoke with Jose and have decided to go with the PTK setup on the orange car. We haven't worked out all the specs yet. Won't be very soon either, as I have other cars to get finished and events to attend first. Orange is 3rd priority
#79
Thread Starter
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,725
Likes: 0
From: Huntsville, AL
D&D built it, not sure on all the upgrades. But knowing him, probably a full upgrade. More then likely its the same Jim has done to his 6spd twin turbo LT1 car. Viper input shaft, output shaft...etc..etc
#80
Originally Posted by JZ 97 SS 1500
D&D built it, not sure on all the upgrades. But knowing him, probably a full upgrade. More then likely its the same Jim has done to his 6spd twin turbo LT1 car. Viper input shaft, output shaft...etc..etc
That still on a PTE 88 frame?