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AWD and boost question

Old Apr 1, 2005 | 03:51 AM
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Default AWD and boost question

Since nobodys done this with a jeep...im gonna try my luck here.

what kind of boost can you build on the line with the holding power of AWD and a 2600 stall converter? my jeep weighs about 4100lbs race weight.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 06:52 AM
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I can brake it up to 6psi or so.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 07:29 AM
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I can get my truck to 12+ psi, but then the trans breaks after about ten of those launches. I have a Trailblazer converter that stalls around 2300-2700 depending on boost and baer brakes at all 4 corners.

Kurt
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 09:29 AM
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In 4wd I get an average of 6-7psi. One time I got 8psi and this happened.

8PSI launch

LOL

I've noticed that as long as the turbo is hot you're fine. Don't try it with the turbo cold.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 08:27 AM
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Some of the Sy / Ty guys build pretty good boost on the line, but use some neat tricks to get there.

For example, they pull up to the line, let the engine idle (where it actually has vacuum) and crank way down on the brakes, then spool up the motor. Most of those trucks still have vacuum brake boosters.

I'd suggest thinking seriously about changing the vacuum brake booster to a hydro-boost setup for a vehicle that you're gonna brake boost regularly. Hydro-boost runs off the powersteering pump, giving you a source of power that isn't dependent upon engine vacuum (which isn't very consistent in a turbo'd or super'd vehicle). Also upgrading the brakes (bigger rotors, better calipers and pads) will pay dividends in the ability to build boost on the line.

Good luck doing it in a Jeep. Always fun to build something different.

'Dreamin'
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 07:29 PM
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do you guys think this could be effective for a fueling/timing system?

The stock computer would be reflashed, i would convert to a full return fuel system, a 255lph holley in tank, mount the regulator by the rail, on the return side, then run a vortech SFMU and a BTM. the ECU flash would reduce timing, and the BTM would let me fine tune the level for daily/track.
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JustDreamin
Some of the Sy / Ty guys build pretty good boost on the line, but use some neat tricks to get there.

For example, they pull up to the line, let the engine idle (where it actually has vacuum) and crank way down on the brakes, then spool up the motor. Most of those trucks still have vacuum brake boosters.

I'd suggest thinking seriously about changing the vacuum brake booster to a hydro-boost setup for a vehicle that you're gonna brake boost regularly. Hydro-boost runs off the powersteering pump, giving you a source of power that isn't dependent upon engine vacuum (which isn't very consistent in a turbo'd or super'd vehicle). Also upgrading the brakes (bigger rotors, better calipers and pads) will pay dividends in the ability to build boost on the line.

Good luck doing it in a Jeep. Always fun to build something different.

'Dreamin'
I think the Sy/Ty guys actually hold the brakes down as hard as they can at idle, throw the truck in nuetral and rev the engine. When they let off the throttle the vacuum spikes even higher than just at idle allowing the brakes a little more holding power.
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Old Apr 3, 2005 | 09:42 PM
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i found it is more of a torqe issue than psi.

with the 4.8 i could hold 10psi
with the 6.0 something like 7psi
with the 6.7 around 4psi

the 6.7 at 4psi totaly rips out of the hole where the 4.8 was real soft even at 10psi.
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by parish8
i found it is more of a torqe issue than psi.

with the 4.8 i could hold 10psi
with the 6.0 something like 7psi
with the 6.7 around 4psi

the 6.7 at 4psi totaly rips out of the hole where the 4.8 was real soft even at 10psi.

I had thought about including something about the fact that a boost vs boost comparison isn't necessarily useful, but didn't have any kind of concrete examples to back up that kind of statement. Boost on fairly stock small motor doesn't compare well to boost on a large built up motor (with hi flow heads and such).

And XLR8NSS, you're right about the Sy/Ty guys reving in neutral and the additional vacuum generated when spinning down with the throttle blades closed. I thought I had remembered something else in the procudure (which you came up with), but couldn't come up with enough details to be usefull. And my point was more that there are some tricks around to be able to hold more boost and that a hydro-boost system is usually a good thing in the pursuit of more boost at the line. But its all good.....

'Dreamin'
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