Heres the setup: Stock bottom end, mildy ported 6.0 liter heads, GM Hotcam, single T76 beleive its the TTi kit?

This is where it started. Was called because car was going to get motortron 60s and fouled plugs out even after couple second runtime. pulled plugs and they were oil gray

Before that the car was on stock injectors, and I found the PCV system was hooked up funky. All ports on TB intake were blocked, and one line was running from right in front of the air inlet to the passenger side valvecover. Fresh plugs, first tune fired right up. When sitting still it would disappear in oil white smoke, not so bad cruising around. Hooked up stock style PCV system ala ATI setup recommend, smoking was down 90%

it would off and on smoke a little bit after that. After talking to a couple FI people, consensus was to run valvecover lines to catchcan with breathers... at least at WOT we know there wont be any crankcase pressures.

over time though its slowly starting to smoke more and more at idle, occasionally you can smell oil being burnt, and cruising it gets a blueish haze every now and then. Some of it is definitely from the oiling lines that are leaking their *** off into the pan (JB weld does not make for pimpness BTW people ) and dripping on the crossover tube and was soaking into the heatwrap on it, making it more of afire hazard then insulator.

3 things I can think of.. PCV needs alternative setup, the rings are shot or the turbo seals are leaking and its getting in form the turbo. There is some sludge around the bolts from the inducer to the compressor housing bolts... might be a sign of leak there?

What is a sure fire way to setup the PCV system? Maybe put check valves in the breather lines so they will open under valvecover pressure and run a stock style pcv with some kind of check valve that shuts under load? Know of any pcv valve that handles positive pressure?

I know when the car was first put together, stock injectors, pcv hooked up wrong and no tune it was beat on some before I got involved with it, almost made me think oil is from significant blowby, could it happen that quickly? It made ok power I guess, 460 on 6 psi with a retarded cam for a turbo car but not what id expect out of 6 psi, heads, and cam

 

where's the turbo drain go back into the pan?

if it's below the oil level and you've got a reasonable amount of case pressure it will push oil up and out the turbo. That much smoke at idle makes the turbo drain my vote.

 

its at he top of the pan passenger side. First thing I thought. It was originally in the front of the pan, that is now capped off and leaking its *** off. Dunno what was goign on down here lol

the line coming in top of the turbo (I assume feed lol) is only say 4 an. The return is almost 10 AN Id have to say.

 

Im tempted to take of the intake duct and try and get it runign on ve tabels... just to see if it keeps sucking oil

 

ya first thing id focus on would be your oil drain.
you said you moved it to the side of the pan, passenger side?
why isnt it at the driver side it would have less travel then.
with the tti street kit you dont have much room for error in placing your drain right.
can you put your drain here


next on your pvc, ive tried alot best i found to help out is cap off the TB pvc port and take the lines from the valve covers to a catch can and vent the catch can.

next if the above dont work its your rings, mine didnt last long, so get some good rings.
Ive heard total seal now offers there "TNT" ring in a 3.9+" size. these rings are similar to hellfire rings which have held up good to pressure.

 

if the engine has allready been hurt then blowby can cause crankcase pressure which will keep the gravity drain from working properly and oil the exhaust

used kit most likely the turbo needs to be refreshed.. about 300 bux... send it to turbotech they can turn it around fast.

oh and redo the drain so its a nice sloping straight shot at the pan.. use 1/2-5/8" hose that is oil tolorant.

 

Unfortunately the setup was put together by someone apparently not very well versed in turbo oiling/breathing setups. I was just attempting to tune the car... but wanted to go thru it because I have no faith it will stay together. The line runs around front of the oil pan, drops a inch or two from slack then back up to the fitting in the top of the pan. I had a feeling oil was sittign in the saggin portion but figured oil pressure would keep it moving... thinking about crankcase pressure I can see where it would hang that up.

Anyone ever used a blow by gauge or know of a way to measure it/test for it

So far Ive had to rewire the MAF (harness was intermittent short, not good for a boost car) and the boost a pump, fuel pump hot wire was just stuck under the fuel pump relay, didnt trust that much so I pulle dit under the fuse box and tapped off trigger wire for pump relay. I caught that stuff before we put it on the dyno.. but being under boost with a maf dropping signal, stock injectors no tune pulling oil under boost,Im wary of leaning on it. The guy is already in neck deep

~GrannySShifting

 

yup get that oil return fixed!