max power on pump gas
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max power on pump gas I am doing a 98 Z28 LS1/4L60E swap into an old Jag and have been seriously considering a single or twin turbo setup... the catch is I only want to run 93 octane pump gas... and I don't want to play around with water or alcohol injection, either. It seems like the higher horsepower is really limited by the high compression ratio and octane. What's the most I can expect out of a good turbo setup with a stock bottom end on pump gas?? Going into the bottom end just gets expensive, and I want to know what I can do without messing with that.
I don't have a problem with upgrading the fuel system (injectors, regulator, pump, etc) or the ECM... and I'd also want to go with an air-to-air intercooler.
I don't have a problem with upgrading the fuel system (injectors, regulator, pump, etc) or the ECM... and I'd also want to go with an air-to-air intercooler.
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website By the way, here's my site http://www.buyrcars.com/jag.htm
Originally Posted by FastKat
I am doing a 98 Z28 LS1/4L60E swap into an old Jag and have been seriously considering a single or twin turbo setup...
Originally Posted by FastKat
I am doing a 98 Z28 LS1/4L60E swap into an old Jag and have been seriously considering a single or twin turbo setup... the catch is I only want to run 93 octane pump gas... and I don't want to play around with water or alcohol injection, either. It seems like the higher horsepower is really limited by the high compression ratio and octane. What's the most I can expect out of a good turbo setup with a stock bottom end on pump gas?? Going into the bottom end just gets expensive, and I want to know what I can do without messing with that.
I don't have a problem with upgrading the fuel system (injectors, regulator, pump, etc) or the ECM... and I'd also want to go with an air-to-air intercooler.
I don't have a problem with upgrading the fuel system (injectors, regulator, pump, etc) or the ECM... and I'd also want to go with an air-to-air intercooler.
Some say its not safe, but IMO it is all in the tuning and understanding what the engine needs.
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Bryan that's pretty impressive... but tough to compare to what I am trying to put together. That Procharger is belt driven, right? That helps your exhaust exit temuratures a lot and keeps heat out of the combustion chamber... which helps avoid detonation and allows you to run more boost.
How much do I have to bring my compression ratio down to get some worthwhile boost? I could swap in a set of lower compression pistons or go for the LQ4? heads off of a 6.0L to bring the compression ratio down to about 9.3... would that be low enough? Would that hurt my regular day-to-day driving much?
I'm looking for about 600rwhp and peak torque around 3500 rpm... and want to keep engine speed around the factory 6200rpm limit. I also want to keep the stock crank.
How much do I have to bring my compression ratio down to get some worthwhile boost? I could swap in a set of lower compression pistons or go for the LQ4? heads off of a 6.0L to bring the compression ratio down to about 9.3... would that be low enough? Would that hurt my regular day-to-day driving much?
I'm looking for about 600rwhp and peak torque around 3500 rpm... and want to keep engine speed around the factory 6200rpm limit. I also want to keep the stock crank.
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Originally Posted by FastKat
Bryan that's pretty impressive... but tough to compare to what I am trying to put together. That Procharger is belt driven, right? That helps your exhaust exit temuratures a lot and keeps heat out of the combustion chamber... which helps avoid detonation and allows you to run more boost.
How much do I have to bring my compression ratio down to get some worthwhile boost? I could swap in a set of lower compression pistons or go for the LQ4? heads off of a 6.0L to bring the compression ratio down to about 9.3... would that be low enough? Would that hurt my regular day-to-day driving much?
I'm looking for about 600rwhp and peak torque around 3500 rpm... and want to keep engine speed around the factory 6200rpm limit. I also want to keep the stock crank.
How much do I have to bring my compression ratio down to get some worthwhile boost? I could swap in a set of lower compression pistons or go for the LQ4? heads off of a 6.0L to bring the compression ratio down to about 9.3... would that be low enough? Would that hurt my regular day-to-day driving much?
I'm looking for about 600rwhp and peak torque around 3500 rpm... and want to keep engine speed around the factory 6200rpm limit. I also want to keep the stock crank.
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where can I get a deal on pistons? That being said, anybody know where I can get a good deal on some pistons and rings... something I won't have to hone the block for?? maybe rods too and of course rod bolts.... do you guys stick to the flat top pistons to keep the shape of the combustion chamber consistent?
I found some places on eBay but after I read about SSAutochrome on the forum, I would rather buy from someone you guys had good experience with. And of course I want to get a great deal...
I found some places on eBay but after I read about SSAutochrome on the forum, I would rather buy from someone you guys had good experience with. And of course I want to get a great deal...
Originally Posted by 777
i would put compression as said above 8.5-9.1...i don't see how that could hurt day to day driving...your goals should be easily met...stock crank will go a long way...
you should hone to get a good ring seal, don't do something half assed just to have to take apart and do it all over again.
Any of our sponsors should be able to hook you up with rods/pistons etc
Any of our sponsors should be able to hook you up with rods/pistons etc
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Do you mean stripping the block down and sending it out to have it line honed? That's getting a little expensive... any alternatives? Stripping down the block would add in a whole new set of costs... and I'm wondering if my money would be better spent on an NA setup.
Originally Posted by Got Me SOM
you should hone to get a good ring seal, don't do something half assed just to have to take apart and do it all over again.
Any of our sponsors should be able to hook you up with rods/pistons etc
Any of our sponsors should be able to hook you up with rods/pistons etc
Last edited by FastKat; May 10, 2005 at 11:22 AM.
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Did any of your Diamond setups go in without honing?
Originally Posted by ABeasst
I"m running Diamond pistons and rings and am on my third set for my third setup 
Never had any trouble with them.
Never had any trouble with them.
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How comfortable are you with tearing an engine down yourself. In the No. VA area, and even in PA looking at your location, there are some good builders around (now I don't know how much experience they've had with Gen IIIs) and I'm sure they can do the line hones and light machine work for you. Lug your block, save shipping, and then assemble yourself. People are pushing the limits of the stock shortblock, and I bet we find the weak links this summer, so stay tuned.
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what do I need to replace when I strip the block? I work in N. Va but the car and my dad's shop are in Pittsburgh... so something close to there would be better. We kind of thought we'd go to Pittsburgh Crank to have the crank balanced... will we have to have it balanced to the lighter pistons, too.. right? I was guessing they could do the honing as well...
What places do you recommend that are close to Pittsburgh that would give me a heck of a deal on a cylinder honing with torque plates??? I know I have to replace the freeze plugs and engine cover seals...agh and prob cam bearings... what else will I need to replace new after I strip the block and have it honed?
I am going to do the teardown and build myself. I have a lot of experiene working on late-model wrecks (we buy wrecks from rental companies, fix them, and sell them to car dealerships and at auctions) so I am not worried about the work. I have never worked on a rotating assembly before but my dad has rebiult countless small block chevys... and I always have him leaning over my shoulder!
What places do you recommend that are close to Pittsburgh that would give me a heck of a deal on a cylinder honing with torque plates??? I know I have to replace the freeze plugs and engine cover seals...agh and prob cam bearings... what else will I need to replace new after I strip the block and have it honed?
I am going to do the teardown and build myself. I have a lot of experiene working on late-model wrecks (we buy wrecks from rental companies, fix them, and sell them to car dealerships and at auctions) so I am not worried about the work. I have never worked on a rotating assembly before but my dad has rebiult countless small block chevys... and I always have him leaning over my shoulder!
Originally Posted by sb427f-car
How comfortable are you with tearing an engine down yourself. In the No. VA area, and even in PA looking at your location, there are some good builders around (now I don't know how much experience they've had with Gen IIIs) and I'm sure they can do the line hones and light machine work for you. Lug your block, save shipping, and then assemble yourself. People are pushing the limits of the stock shortblock, and I bet we find the weak links this summer, so stay tuned.
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Originally Posted by KissMySSo1
The more cubes the more power you can run on pump gas. I am curious about the power limit on 93 octain for a 346" motor as well.
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i would think you should be able to make even more, the guy who has the highest pump gas 2 liter dsm is making 500whp @ 27psi on pump gas with no alky/water etc
check out prochargers website, they have the highest pump gas car anywhere i think, 1685whp on a 580ci motor that runs 7's @ 170 on pump gas rofl
check out prochargers website, they have the highest pump gas car anywhere i think, 1685whp on a 580ci motor that runs 7's @ 170 on pump gas rofl