My 24 hour Pham single install.
John
John
PS the install is not a dificult one. When i said 24 hour i ment aht it wasent even in my hands 24 hours before it was totally installed. didnt wait a single minute. There was a large amount of messing around and pic takin with the install. Thanks.
Last edited by 99SS-T; May 19, 2005 at 02:26 AM. Reason: opps
Speed Inc. has their fuel rails on sale for $130 right now in the group purchase forum.
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I am waiting on the silicone connectors now. I paid to get 2 day shipping and unless ATP uses DHL or USPS then im thinkin that the connectors aint comin today. UPS was already here today bringin me parts and FEDEX usually comes around 9 am and it is 11:20 atm. I sure hope they get me my couplers. OH well. I hate that they are in cali adn open at 10 in cali time which is 1 here so that makes it pretty annoying having to wait till then to see WTF.
Ok guys thanks for the input ill cya yall.
John
I am waiting on the silicone connectors now. I paid to get 2 day shipping and unless ATP uses DHL or USPS then im thinkin that the connectors aint comin today. UPS was already here today bringin me parts and FEDEX usually comes around 9 am and it is 11:20 atm. I sure hope they get me my couplers. OH well. I hate that they are in cali adn open at 10 in cali time which is 1 here so that makes it pretty annoying having to wait till then to see WTF.
Ok guys thanks for the input ill cya yall.
John
Now there are more than one way to do things and its hard to say exactly what you will be able to get away with. You could have two 255 intake pumps with a y-block and a boost sensing switch to activate the secondary pump.
That scenario would probably be the one that is cost efficient, holds fuel pressure, and retains most of the stock system.
Now there are more than one way to do things and its hard to say exactly what you will be able to get away with. You could have two 255 intake pumps with a y-block and a boost sensing switch to activate the secondary pump.
That scenario would probably be the one that is cost efficient, holds fuel pressure, and retains most of the stock system.
After much research, thats precisely how I am doing mine.

I had my headers and the majority of the kit installed in a day after I cut the K member. It was the hacking of the k member and bad luck with the weather that put the process on ice for me, finding and ordering the goofy flange for the GT42 that also had to be tig'ed to another piece of aluminum tube, me coating all my parts, fabbing up my FMIC bracket since I no longer had a bumper support to mount one to, fabbing up all my own IC pipes and waiting for stuff to show up, like HTS stuff and T bolts and more t bolts. Dropping the pan also proved to be a bitch, after drilling and tapping the oil drain hole, and seeing how much aluminum gets into the pan WITH GREASED UP DRILL BITS, i'll never rec tapping the pan on the car. With the fact that i've had my kit on and off the car about 10 times...but I already stated that it was a breeze to install all the hot parts and turbo, I went from mac's to turbo in about the same time.
Plug wires also don't fit, had the 10.5mm taylors due to the straight plug boots resting on the header tubes they got thrown, went with your MSD's with 90 deg boots and they got hung up on the thick flanges and barely engaged the plug ends, now the MSD multi directional boots are on the way next day air. Alternator bracket was a waste of time and money..fixing that with local help. Plus I was on cash only budget...stayed away from my credit cards this time, so a day or two was wasted on waiting for funds.
I'd just like to see pics of his alt. bracket, oil drain line routing with the straight oil drain that pham sends with..unless they changed it...wonder why? And pics of the plug wires fitting as mine didn't but they weren't stock either
ATP ships stuff out UPS, at least they did for me, the both times I ordered from em.
Good luck on the dyno
All the pipes are connected silicone connectors and all. I drilled my drain for the oil into the front of the oil pan near the corner on the passanger side of the front of the pan. Seeing as the hose would have to go over the crossmember to get any lower on the pan, the lowest part of the hose is basically gonna be as high as it is now so there is no benefit to going lower IMHO. I didnt use grease on the drill but i did use it on the tap and then I took a wire and put grease on it and dapped around about a 100 times inside the pan and got a TON of shavings. I was amazed when Isaw how much was in there. I am pretty confident that i got all that was in there BUT I am gonna dump another quart of oil in adn then change the oil in hopes that any smaller particles that where in there will go to the bottom with the oil and drain out.
I have 2 spark plugs on the drivers side that do touch the headers. To combat this i just put header wrap over the small section. Ya ya i know is the cheap way out but i dont feel like runnin around trying to figure out another method to make it work.
The only cutting that i did to that car was to make the FMIC fit in the bumper, and i had to cut a little piece of the bar that goes under the transmission in the back cause my exhaust was hitting it. John made ALL the pipes for the kit and it would have fit had i not had the torque arm that has the bar welded in from side to side. Other wise it was all straight forward.
Im trying to get my bud to put the damn pics up so that i can show yall but he aint got a chace to do it yet. Hope to have them up tonight. Thanks all
John
PS What is a BAP?
Last edited by 99SS-T; May 19, 2005 at 11:28 PM. Reason: opps










with a pump regulator and injectors its at least 600rwhp