ATI damper
Because you can bolt the supercharger crank pully right to the damper. Eliminates the chance of any wobble like the conventionally mounted supercharger crank pulley.
SDCE sells a supercharger crank pulley that bolts right up.
SDCE sells a supercharger crank pulley that bolts right up.
Just make sure you measure the offset and line up the belts properly. The ATI damper sits in a little bit. It took me about 8 hours to get everything lined up and shimmed properly, but once done properly, you'll never have slip issues.
I run the exact setup that you are getting for the supercharger belting. ATI damper + SDCE. I have 10k on this 8 rib already at 16 psi ~ 700 whp, and the belt still looks good.
I think this combination is the most reliable method to maintain boost for the procharger system.
I run the exact setup that you are getting for the supercharger belting. ATI damper + SDCE. I have 10k on this 8 rib already at 16 psi ~ 700 whp, and the belt still looks good.
I think this combination is the most reliable method to maintain boost for the procharger system.
Yes. My damper is keyed to the crank.
Off the top of my head this is my entire drive system for the supercharger.
ATI Damper (not an underdrive) - AC Delete
1/4" Key to the crank - keyway machined into crank and pulley (~1.5" long keyway)
SDCE Supercharger Crank Pulley 7.65" 8 rib directly bolted to ATI damper
3.3" RR Supercharger Pulley 8 rib turned backwards and spaced properly
SDCE Tensioner Kit
Everything aligned within +/- 1 mm (took a while)
It ran me around 1k and took a while to setup, but it was worth all of the preparation.
Off the top of my head this is my entire drive system for the supercharger.
ATI Damper (not an underdrive) - AC Delete
1/4" Key to the crank - keyway machined into crank and pulley (~1.5" long keyway)
SDCE Supercharger Crank Pulley 7.65" 8 rib directly bolted to ATI damper
3.3" RR Supercharger Pulley 8 rib turned backwards and spaced properly
SDCE Tensioner Kit
Everything aligned within +/- 1 mm (took a while)
It ran me around 1k and took a while to setup, but it was worth all of the preparation.
Originally Posted by Ed Blown Vert
Worth it and why??
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Originally Posted by NoGo
Yes. My damper is keyed to the crank.
Off the top of my head this is my entire drive system for the supercharger.
ATI Damper (not an underdrive) - AC Delete
1/4" Key to the crank - keyway machined into crank and pulley (~1.5" long keyway)
SDCE Supercharger Crank Pulley 7.65" 8 rib directly bolted to ATI damper
3.3" RR Supercharger Pulley 8 rib turned backwards and spaced properly
SDCE Tensioner Kit
Everything aligned within +/- 1 mm (took a while)
It ran me around 1k and took a while to setup, but it was worth all of the preparation.
Off the top of my head this is my entire drive system for the supercharger.
ATI Damper (not an underdrive) - AC Delete
1/4" Key to the crank - keyway machined into crank and pulley (~1.5" long keyway)
SDCE Supercharger Crank Pulley 7.65" 8 rib directly bolted to ATI damper
3.3" RR Supercharger Pulley 8 rib turned backwards and spaced properly
SDCE Tensioner Kit
Everything aligned within +/- 1 mm (took a while)
It ran me around 1k and took a while to setup, but it was worth all of the preparation.
Do you have to key or pin it?
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Verdad Gallardo Just opt for the ATI superdamper with the AC belt option.
Yes, you should key or pin the damper to the crank. Without keying or pinning eventually you will begin to spin the crank pulley on the crank. In the worste case scenario you whipe out the snub of the crank. This just recently happened to one of the folks at the shop and the car is down until the crank can be pulled.....big bummer.
There are other good options to having the crank machined if it is still in the car. The dampers can also be drilled and pinned to the crank.
Yes, you should key or pin the damper to the crank. Without keying or pinning eventually you will begin to spin the crank pulley on the crank. In the worste case scenario you whipe out the snub of the crank. This just recently happened to one of the folks at the shop and the car is down until the crank can be pulled.....big bummer.
There are other good options to having the crank machined if it is still in the car. The dampers can also be drilled and pinned to the crank.
The engine builder should do it. The crank just needs to be machined. Just ask him to have a 1/4" keyway machined into the snub of the crank (~1.5" long). Let him know that it is for a supercharger crank pulley and he should catch on to what you are trying to do. It is a pretty typical request for a motor build. Sending the balancer to the machinest as well usually help because they can match the balancer up to the crank and make sure the key slot(s) is the right size and length for both.
