Why not to buy STS part 2
Personally, if you only want 400 RWHP, just go heads and cam. My car put down 385/385 and I drove it down to the Thunder Shootout last year, raced it, and drove it back. Plus the cam is so mild it sounds stock. These LSX engines have some of the best flowing heads ever produced by an OEM. If you want the MOST reliable setup, this is the way to go. You can get 400 pretty easily with just a little more cam than I have.
-Geoff
You need to figure a converter into anyset other than stock so that is also a wash.
Can you inagine a stock verter in a SC car? That would run like ****. I was a little extreem when I said they dont make peak boost until 6000 but normally not untill 5500+RPM's for real. Now add that with a stock converter and you have a serious wait from the time you press the gas until the time you have good boost.
I do however agree with the NA stuff.
I make 480 NA in my 408 A3 12 bolt slicks etc.
Made 425 in my 346 with a 224/228 cam fast 90/90 and ran 11.20 NA with a Nitrous converter.
I am not debateing the Nitrous or NA stuff just the FI stuff here.
Can you inagine a stock verter in a SC car? That would run like ****. I was a little extreem when I said they dont make peak boost until 6000 but normally not untill 5500+RPM's for real. Now add that with a stock converter and you have a serious wait from the time you press the gas until the time you have good boost.
If your blower doesn't have any boost when you punch it then something is wrong - maybe you need a smaller blower. My Powerdyne had 3 psi at 3000 RPM and ramped up to seven. Unless you are running an F2R Procharger, you should have boost as soon as you punch it. The Eaton on my GTP gives me near full boost as soon as I nail it with a stock convertor.
-Geoff
If your blower doesn't have any boost when you punch it then something is wrong - maybe you need a smaller blower. My Powerdyne had 3 psi at 3000 RPM and ramped up to seven. Unless you are running an F2R Procharger, you should have boost as soon as you punch it. The Eaton on my GTP gives me near full boost as soon as I nail it with a stock convertor.
-Geoff
I could have got a phamspeed but didn twasnt to deal with california emissions here.
Like blowers, everyone doesnt to toss a roots type 6-71 or 8-71 blower on their car, some opt for the small weiand 144. all a matter of choice and what you plan to do with the vehicle.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/353748-rear-mount-sts-dyno-graph-10-psi.html
I was looking at that dyno, 49x rwhp from 10psi, a 224/224 cam and headers.
The 224 cam and headers should give him say 350-360rwhp on motor, so he gained about 130-140rwhp from 10psi of boost. That seems kinda low IMO.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
If your blower doesn't have any boost when you punch it then something is wrong - maybe you need a smaller blower. My Powerdyne had 3 psi at 3000 RPM and ramped up to seven. Unless you are running an F2R Procharger, you should have boost as soon as you punch it. The Eaton on my GTP gives me near full boost as soon as I nail it with a stock convertor.
-Geoff
I am not saying you need it more, but saying that with both setup's OR ANY setup for that matter a converter is needed. I had a GTP as well. Big difference.
Converters are important for Nitrous/turbo/SC/NA/and whatever else you can think of.
With the STS it is EXTREEMLY important to have a converter but my point was price wise a wash as a verter will make both setup run better.
What kind of difference in trap speeds and dyno's have been verified?
It was necessary to cut the radiator hose to make the pipe not touch the serpentine belt. Talk to Don or Billy @ TRT. That's what both of them told me. I called up STS. They told me the same thing. Don actually suggested I take on my power steering cooler. That's all fine and good... but I shouldn't have to. Did the "engineers" at STS take a week designing the kit or what? Plenty of F-bodies came with PS coolers. They also couldn't put the MAF any closer to the TB? That was a poor location. It should have been done like the LT1 kit.
The driver side sub frame pipe needed the **** ground out of it just so the silicone coupling would fit over the pipe.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/307856-how-i-tweaked-my-sts-pipe-more-clearance-rear-lca-pics-too.html
I didn't go to that extreme... but quite a bit was needed to be ground off between the bracket and the pipe... didn't STS think you might need at least the thickness of the coupling plus a few millimeters so that you could actually get it on there? Obviously not.
Little bits of weld all over the turbo inlet flange need to ground down so that the gasket would seat correctly... It's not good when you can see light coming out from between two mating surfaces... the damn thing still wasn't very true at all when putting a nice straight edge on it.
I'm glad it's worked for some people, but I'm sure there are plenty out there that had issues just like me. I seriously doubt I got some evil voodoo fubared STS kit. They need to fix their quality on the kit. It isn't there.
The bastards still never sent me the "sock" for the K&N. I emailed Don 3 times, and called STS twice. Still no sock.
Yeah Jammer let's line 'em up... I'll toast you with my slowmaster exhaust and lid... no way you'll keep up.
I'm not saying they don't make good power... they do. But their quality does sucks, and the kit has too many issues. They market it as a no hassle, saturday afternoon install, while drinking beer and taking breaks... it's not though. I expected the kit to be like doing headers or something.I could see if I bought Phamspeed, TTi, whatever single/twin front mount kit and was bitching about fitment.... It's expected that it requires the modification of EVERYTHING... I'd love to have one of those, but it just doesn't work around here. Yeah it'd be a pain the ***, but it's expected.
Jammer, you don't have anything close to a STS kit... yours (to my understanding) is all custom work, not using anything STS. Thus the quality and the fit and finish is perfect. Did you ever have base STS kit? Just curious... your setup is done right though.
PurEvl - Okay, okay I get it already; you're trying to put me down with cute little personal attacks. Be a dick all you want it won't change anything.
I could care less about your 408... I don't need to artificially augment my ***** size by driving a crazy fast car... I'm not out to be the fastest car in the world... there's always a faster car. I just want a 400 rwhp or so car... easily done in the LSx world.
Well it was fun today, but it's late (or early) well chat again soon... until then adieu adieu
(damn I typed waayyy too much
)Oh and just for fun... (don't get too upset)
I could care less about your 408... I don't need to artificially augment my ***** size by driving a crazy fast car... I'm not out to be the fastest car in the world... there's always a faster car. I just want a 400 rwhp or so car... easily done in the LSx world.
Good thing you dont argue...cause you suck at it. Im attacking you for one reason...your alone in your arguement. I apologize for attacking your buidling skills...maybe you should take up knitting. As for the 408 comment...you asked me if i build my own ****..i replied I built my 408. Dont know why you brought ***** talk into it but i do see "NAVY" in your username so that could explain alot....like the semen eh there cutie. And Im a dick but come on im a funny one...if you take me seriously then grab your computer an chuck it out your trailer home solar roof cause you dont belong on the internet. And stop posting my picture everywhere..its offensive to me.
Good luck with your h/c setup, im sure it will run great.

As for ***** size...look at my sig...my e ***** is HUGE
The 224 cam and headers should give him say 350-360rwhp on motor, so he gained about 130-140rwhp from 10psi of boost. That seems kinda low IMO.





