SUPER DAVES Z

iTrader: (6)

If you're on a budget, screw the dfi and go with a blow-through carb. There are plenty of guy's on turbomustangs making nasty power with 750-850 holly's. There is also an article in this months carcraft about an 8 second gen I camaro, running twin holsets ($250 each), non-intercooler, no bov, on a two bolt main 454 and a blow through 850 (i think, could be bigger) holly. They drive it on the street with race gas, running hard and as cheap as you can get. The safety crap probably cost more than that set-up.

That's the way to go if you want a cheaper and fast turbo set-up.

RyanJ

what's the benefit of a fox body?...You can get a notch below 2600lbs, and get 1.2's with off the shelf suspension pieces and 10.5 tires. A stock (forged piston) short from a late 80's/early 90's mustang, shorty headers, a little bit of 2.5" pipe, and a turbo is 9's with some practice and tuning. www.turbomustangs.com/forums

Fryguy302

iTrader: (3)

They're great cars to play with, cheap, fast, and easy to work on.

I have to say though, the above is quite an exaggeration. With an EFI turbo car and a race block, it's pretty hard to get that light unless you're building a gutted, lexan, race car. Also, the stock block can and WILL break in the 10 second zone. I don't care what you read, it will break, and when it does you will be lucky to not test your roll cage as you drive through your own water and oil. If you have the stock roller 302 block, keep the car in the mid 10's...even then it may break.

As far as the weight goes, let me tell you what I've done to my car to make it lighter:

Glass hood
Glass seats
Aluminum bumper, aluminum bumper mounts front and back
Removed door bars
Complete tube front end (k-member and a -arms) and coil overs
aluminum lower control arms
no HVAC (cooler is in the dash instead)
All airbag stuff gone
Manual steering rack
Cage is all chrome moly except main hoop and back bars
Strange race brakes all the way around

Even with all this done, the car is 3200# with my 200# in it. Basically, I have done EVERYTHING that can be done without making the car look ghetto. It still has full interior and power windows, but I will never get rid of that, and it's really not that much weight anyhow. I have been playing with mustangs for 15 years, and I can guarantee the rumors about how light they are are highly exaggerated.

The reason my car is not lighter is the wieght of the race block, the turbo, the cooler and tank, the cage, and the TH400 trans.

If you omit any of these you can make the car lighter, but 2600# for a 9 second turbo mustang is *HIGHLY* unlikely.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

All in all, I don't think it will be cheaper except for the fact that you can browse many Stang boards and buy used parts. Figure that you buy a clean roller for $2500, or get it painted for $2500. You'd want to use an R302 block or equivalent, they are not cheap.

I have owned a few Mustangs in the past:

68 Fastback
72 Mach 1
88 LX
89 Notch
92 GT

Good cars, but the 83-92 was a bit crampy for me, I'm 6'1.

Fryguy302

iTrader: (3)

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, if you want to make 9 second power without buying a race block, you can put a 351w block in there and it will live. That's the cheaper way to do it, but it will add almost 100# over the stock 302 shortblock.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

100lbs more? No kidding, I never knew that.

JZ 97 SS 1500

iTrader: (2)

We are building a Fox body race car as well for the next season. Of course like always, we are going to go a little different on the powerplant...hehe

RyanJ

I may have exaggerated the weight a bit. That would really be with no safty stuff, and an NA motor. I apologize. But he is going full race on this car, as stated above.

red90cobra

iTrader: (36)

I'm build a stang with an ls1 in it. Just can't do the turbo right now so I'm doing nitrous. either way should be fast. I'm getting rid of what I can but stil make the interior look good so the back seats stay in. oh and it's cages and everything. have no clue what it weighs we'll see.

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

I'm in the process of looking for a cheap rolling chassis right now.

distortion_69

iTrader: (20)

I'd take your turbo setup out of your car and put it in the mustang.

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

^BLASPHEMY

JZ 97 SS 1500

iTrader: (2)

Just wait till you see our setup...lol

LTLHOMER

iTrader: (10)

Hey Raj I'll take 3200 raceweight! My pig will be lucky to be under 3400 and I've done as much if not more 'weight reduction.' lol

Hood, misc. brackets, hvac, kmember, dash is gutted (looks stock from in front but nothing back there), front/rear bumper supports, abs, steering wheel, all useless wiring, blah blah. The only simple (yet expensive) things I can see myself doing are the brakes, doorbars, and a-arms. But I do have a mild cage so that's like 70 lbs over a full moly cage right there.

slyws6

I used to have a 94 Droptop stang and put a 351w in it with Victor Jr heads and the works etc, I know those cars inside out. I would definately go with the 351w block it will hold up much better than the 302 block, I've seen plenty of 302 blocks split in half it's crazy! Anyway, I used to roam www.stangnet.com and www.corral.net as well as www.svtperformance.com. Might want to check those out for deals. On a side note hows that 6.0L holding up?

-Sly

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

I've got a different block now, same internals. Water got in the bore and scored #5... downhill from there. Thankfully the crank,rods,pistons... everything but the bearings were fine. I'm running stainless rings and copper gaskets now. Thanks for the advise too.

slyws6

Wow that sucks man! Sounds like it's running strong now! With the ARP head studs, stainless O-Rings, and copper gaskets you'll be good for however much power you want to run! Where did you get the other block from? I take it they cut the O-Ring grooves for you? What did you do with the old block? You could easily sell it, it was brand new from scoggy dickens (however you spell that) probably just needed to be bored .030 over.

-Sly

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

The block you sold me was bored 30over. I wasn't aware, haha. We took it all down and took it to the machine shop to have a look at it, they told me it was already punched 30. After further inspection, it all checked out, it was infact a loose 30 bore. I found a used block from TexasSpeed VIA Terry and finally got it here. They punched it, cut the grooves, put the stainless in... It wasn't very costly, but anything like this sucks. The block is sitting on my garage floor, if anybody wants an iron block that's been mic'd and is good for 60 let me know. How's your wife doing Sly? I hear your expecting!?

slyws6

lol she's doing great! How did you hear we were expecting? She's due Jan 25th. As for the block I don't remember it being bored 30 over, that kinda sucks.

-Sly

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

I happend across one of your posts somewhere... I don't remember. Yea, it sucks... but it's better now. Best of luck with your newborn.