Drew778

iTrader: (2)

How soon do you plan on running, I can't wait

longrange4u

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm I have not had the same problems with mine.... I did run at the track last weekend for the first time and ran a un-impressive 12.89. But I trapped at 116.... I need to make some adjustments to include adding the Shaner 2-Step and the Cat replacement pipes. My 60' time was 2.7 so I have allot to do... that was also in street tires.... I will update you when I run with ET Streets and a 2-Step.. I think we will be looking at more like low 11's.

Jared

boosted99camaro

iTrader: (3)

did it blow the couplers under wot or when you let off ? the only time I have ever seen that is a import pro car at the track running 40 psi and his blowoff valve didnt work.

Devil's Due

I agree with what some guys have said I think you really need to get a BOV. The compressed air just has no place to go and the over the axel tube seems to be the weakest point in your system. The clamps your usuing are probley cutting in to the siicone enough to weak'n it a let it rip apart. At least the turbo isn't tring to spin backwards and rattle snake out the waste gate.

Broken5hifT

lrry it sounds like the pipes do not have enough support. the turbo is producing too much pressure for the couplers to hold the pipes together. i dont think it has anything to do with the clamps, the tears seem to be bi-later which would mean twisting. on my couplers they completely expand under pressure and the entire pipe moves, i have a feeling the same thing is happening on your car. you should take your car to an exhaust shop and have them weld some more hangers for support of the pipes. hopefully this will keep them from twisting and rubbing on whatever they are. good luck.

Lrry93

iTrader: (2)

I appreciate the info guys. The pipes blew at WOT.
Deviks due: What do you mean by rattle snake out of the wastegate? When I let off the throttle it does make a crazy sound out the waste gate like its farting. Only way I know how to explain it. The tears are not from the hose clamps. There are above them with no damage at all. Im going to put the car on a lift tommorow and look hard into this. I think adding hangers and some of those neat pipe locks might be the answer.

Broken5hifT

it sounds like the pressure of the turbo is twisting the pipes just enough that the clamps are able to hold on which causes the braided rips on the couplers. good luck keep us informed.

btw, if you get the hangers welded have him weld right before and after the couplers! not in the middle of the pipe!

trtturbo

iTrader: (25)

we have run cars at 8psi with no bov and have not had this happen. If you would like, feel free to email me pics of how you have it mounted. If I can help at all I would be glad to.
The silicone is damn tough, so I cant see it just coming apart easily. Make sure you have an equal amount of silicone on each pipe. Check and be sure your lower control arm isnt pulling down on the charge pipe.
http://www.trtturbo.com/images/Chris_Firehawk_012.jpg
I dont have any better pics, but feel free to call or email if I can help.
(click link)

trtturbo

iTrader: (25)

Also, make sure the short leg on the lca piece is facing forward. If not, the tire may touch it.http://www.trtturbo.com/images/sfc_pics_002.jpg

Lrry93

iTrader: (2)

I will send you some pics out tommorow. I just got off the phone with Squires. They are working with me on trying to figure this out. They seem as stumped as me right now. The are thinking the short leg is blowing off the ssubframe pipe then getting caught in the tire and ripping the silicone on the other peices.
I went out this morning and was in boost testing it. I was in full boost and then lost all boost but the pipes are still connected. I got to get it on a lift to see were the leak is this time. Maybe I blew a hose out???

Devil's Due

Rattle snaking happens when the pressure in the charge pipe has nowhere to go but back out the turbo because the thottle is shut. When the air reverses it causes the turbine wheel to stop or move backwards. When this happens the exhaust gasses still have to excape but can't because the turbo is working backwards this causes a build up behind the waste gate and cause it to open in shot paulses that makes a cha cha cha sound like a rattle snake untill the pressures equalize. hope that helps some.

SIC LSX

iTrader: (10)

Lrry93

iTrader: (2)

Thought thats what you were talking about. Yes my car does it bad! I asked Squires about this. The said the spoke to Garrett and they said unless your over 10psi not to worry about it and it wouldnt damage the turbo. I understand what your saying though. Looks like Im buying a blow off. That has to cause some major pressure on the silicone!

Thanks for posting the pics Daniel.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

We brazed on a ring of welding rod to each end of all my tubes. It's very strong and provides a complete ridge for the clamp to hold against:



It's a pretty easy mod.

Jim

Lrry93

iTrader: (2)

Nice pics. We were just sitting around tonight talking about doing this to the pipes.

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

1) Roll/Bead the pipes.

2) Install BOV

3) Hangars and support bracket install

4) Pray!

Blackbird

I think you will be just fine if you do the above.

cincyrider

Becareful with the edges. Make sure they are rounded and not sharp. Also make sure that you do not place the clamps directly over the edges.

StylinMotors

OK, I was able to load the pics.

You do not have an issue with clamps or the lip on the pipe. You have an issue with pressure. That hose has ruptured from too much pressure. We see the same thing when we are testing burst strength. Somehow your system is building up pressure and it is looking for the weakest place to escape. We are talking 70-100psi to burst a hose of that size. Some mfg. claim burst strengths up to 400psi, they are not being totally honest. This could be the burst strengt of their 1/2" ID High Pressure Hose, but not 2.5" or greater turbo hose. Check the tuning or install a BOV.

Lrry93, remember to e-mail me per our PM. We'd be happy to get you a replacement at N/C.

Wildman

EH??? I would think that with "70-100psi" he would have other problems than a hose bursting. If you do not have a boost gauge, it is a cheap investment and an easy way to tell if thats your problem. To get that type of pressure, he would have a clogged charge pipe upstream AND if that were the case, the car wouldn't idle.
I sincerely believe that something snagged it and tore it apart, LCA, tire, etc... IMO.