To go FI or build motor???
#1
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Hey. Lets start by saying my car is 100% daily driver, and may see the track once n a while but not much. Maybe once a month if that. Bolt ons will be finished this winter. Now after this i am unsure where to head. I have two options......
1.) Go either D1SC 8-rib kit or a turbo kit and run 7-9 psi on stock bottom end and save for 12 bolt and built bottom end.
2.) Go MS3 cam, 150 shot, than some AFR 205's and save for 12 bolt.
I figure for prices.....
1.) 5 grand for a kit or about 3.5k for a used kit plus 1k install, 1k for misc stuff, 500 for tune so 6-8 grand ish for the FI set up.... to run 7-9 psi.
2.) Cam-1k, nitrous kit with all the safety stuff (1250), afr 205's (2250) install about 2 grand, tune 500 so were looking at aboutt he same price for close to the same power. H/C/spray may produce more power but only on the bottle. I am guessing about 450 hp from h/c, plus spray may get close to about 600, FI will get me close to 500.
So for street warrior, daily driver wanting to make a ton of power and blow most all cars out that are not major freaks, which route would you go and why? What do you suggest for me. I know either way i am going to have to get a 12 bolt if i ever want to head to the track, i know all that stuff, jsut curious on which motor route to go with.... I believe the FI route has a lot more room to grow than the H/C/S route..... Which one and why for me? Please try and not be biased, but if you have one set up, tell me what you like about it and dont like. Thanks
1.) Go either D1SC 8-rib kit or a turbo kit and run 7-9 psi on stock bottom end and save for 12 bolt and built bottom end.
2.) Go MS3 cam, 150 shot, than some AFR 205's and save for 12 bolt.
I figure for prices.....
1.) 5 grand for a kit or about 3.5k for a used kit plus 1k install, 1k for misc stuff, 500 for tune so 6-8 grand ish for the FI set up.... to run 7-9 psi.
2.) Cam-1k, nitrous kit with all the safety stuff (1250), afr 205's (2250) install about 2 grand, tune 500 so were looking at aboutt he same price for close to the same power. H/C/spray may produce more power but only on the bottle. I am guessing about 450 hp from h/c, plus spray may get close to about 600, FI will get me close to 500.
So for street warrior, daily driver wanting to make a ton of power and blow most all cars out that are not major freaks, which route would you go and why? What do you suggest for me. I know either way i am going to have to get a 12 bolt if i ever want to head to the track, i know all that stuff, jsut curious on which motor route to go with.... I believe the FI route has a lot more room to grow than the H/C/S route..... Which one and why for me? Please try and not be biased, but if you have one set up, tell me what you like about it and dont like. Thanks
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#3
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If i go FI, stock bottom end will only be there until i can get another 3 grand. It will prolly only run 7-9 PSI for one summer til i can round up some more cash than, i will build it over the winter to up the boost.
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#5
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Hmmm, good idea there. What all do i need to build on my LS1 to handle either a lot of boost or spray? Can someone list out what needs to be done and approx price, im not talkign all out crazy, jsut the stuff that needs to be done to SAFELY run high boost and/or spray
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Well, forged piston, rods, beams, bearings are what I would focus on. The stock crank is pretty strong and I plan on keeping mine when I go FI. You can check out the sponosors or give one of them a call and they will really help you out.
#7
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Which is a good sponser to go with to build a shortblock? Also would you suggest i jsut buy a new shortblock to build up and jsut run my car as it is and when my shortblocks done, swap over the rest of my parts? Or jsut build my motor now up?
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#8
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We charge $4500.00 to pull your engine out, polish the crank, add Callies rods, Diamond forged pistons, Comp cam of your choice, new oil pump, Comp timing chain, reinstall your heads, reinstall engine, and tune on my Mustang Chassis Dyno.
New heads can be added for just the cost of the heads. Bob
New heads can be added for just the cost of the heads. Bob
#9
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Wow, sounds like a pretty good price.... and your in Indiana too! Not too far away. What would be the down time on that? And if i got that done.. i could add a turbo kit and run about how much boost and up to about how much hp? What do you charge to port and polish my heads when they are out and would this give me pretty good results? Please send me a detailed PM or post here. i am interested. Thanks!
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#10
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speaking from experience save up and do EVERYTHING once and right the first time.if you can stand to wait you can save up for the forged bottom end on top of the money you have now for the FI setup and then sell your healthy motor in your car now for a couple grand and get back some cash.
#11
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Yea. i was thinking that, all the parts that i get back after building my motor, i could sell to help say for the FI! They next 5000 i get may go towards building my motor to handle the power. plus with that deal, i get cam n stuff so my HP will be higher from that too!
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#13
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Yea thats a great idea. Exotic, get back to me on that info whenever you can. Thanks. Anymore input?
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#14
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Originally Posted by Superman09
Yea thats a great idea. Exotic, get back to me on that info whenever you can. Thanks. Anymore input?
#15
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Alright, ill send one in a few. Thanks Bob
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#16
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Alright, well i sent you my email earlier, just give me the quote whenver. Also with this new bottom end and running boost, what kind of gas do i need to run, will v-power 93 or BP ultimate still work? Also what type of fuel set up do i need to run high boost? Thanks
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Depending on how much boost you plan on running pump gas will work fine. If you want to up the boost you can get an meth injection setup. But if you're looking to make around 600 rwhp pump gas will do just fine.
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if your car is a dd and occasionally take it to the strip and want to occasionally have some fun on the street nitrous is the way to go. a 150 shot with a good head/cam combo will be hard to beat.
either way you will need a 12 bolt and a good clutch. In addition you should have a good fuel pump and may have to step up in injector.
either way you will need a 12 bolt and a good clutch. In addition you should have a good fuel pump and may have to step up in injector.
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There' NO DOUBT that saving more for the internals is the smarter choice. I don't want to put that choice down. But, shouldn't it be okay to run the boost at 8-10#? For instance, I ran out of money with the clutch, brakes, PTK kit, fuel stuff, and gauges. I will one day do the internals and get some other misc. stuff. If you can get the internals, too, heck, get them. I'll have to wait another year or two to save up for the internals, and I don't think that's such a bad move... It's not the BETTER move/choice, but many here run FI reliably with stock internals (~450 rwhp) and are having fun until they get their ducks in a row (in other words, more $$$) toward forged rods and pistons so they can run the higher boost to go ~650 rwhp (
). What do you guys think?
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