Hey, I have had this problem for some time now. Dropped in the new motor and it smokes when cold for the 1st 10 minutes, mostly on decel when it pulls a vacuum. Originally I thought it was valve seals so had those replaced. Then, I figured it was probably the shitty scavenge pump that came with the kit, it had always worked, but after sitting on the floor for a year I figured maybe the diaphragm was shot, so I put in a nice Weldon pump. It had even visibly dripped oil out of the turbo, so figured it wasn't scavenging properly. Well, the damn thing is still smoking. Could it be that the problem was initially the pump, but now the turbo seal is shot because of the oil?

Also got another problem. Car stumbles at low rpm ( 1000-1800 ) badly. Above 2krpm it clears right up, but if I lay into the car hard it will still stumble in upper rpms. This just came out of nowhere. Checked the plugs they're fine. Next I plan on swapping in an extra set of coil packs and wires. The fueling is dead on, so I'm thinking it has to be spark.

Help me out guys, am I headed in the right direction with these issues?

I really don't want to have to pull the turbo unless absolutely necessary.

- Dug

 

could the pcv be pulling oil maybe?

weird place for a stumble at those rpms....i might would try looking at the TPS to make sure its tracking smoothly...really just throwing stuff at ya....

 

thanks, the plugs looked perfect so I don't think it's the pcv . . . I've also got a breather cap on the pass side. I'm pretty sure it's related to the turbo since there WAS oil dripping out of the center section ( one or two drops ) but there was oil in the hose going from the turbo to the intercooler, as well as oil in the bottom of the intercooler. I really was hoping this new pump would fix my problem . . .

ya, the stumble is really odd . . . I'll take a look at the TPS . . .

 

from what i have heard, if you are blowing blue smoke, that means the turbo is going/gone...

 

I would agree if it did it all the time . . . but it doesn't, only when cold. When it's warmed up it's perfect. I KNOW the blue smoke is coming from the turbo, you can see it's wet around the intercooler hose. And I would think if it was the motor burning oil I would see something on the plugs, they're perfect.

 

Your valve stem seals are bad. oops i see you already checked that. Its either your turbo seal or your rings. good luck figuring her out.

 

if the plugs are fine, i would say you need a turbo rebuild

 

thanks guys . . . I'm leaning in the same direction. I think with the scavenge pump not working properly the turbo sat in pooled oil for too long and fucked up the turbo seal. That's the only thing I can come up with.

 

I save good info on the Incon kits when I find it.
This was posted last year I think but I dont rember by who.

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"For the passenger intercooler, drill a small hole on the front lower section of the bottom tank and drill and tap for a 6mm bolt as a drain hole. Open the hole, put a drain pan under it and start the car. Most of the oil in the hose from the compressor to intercooler will be forced out. I would replace the oil check valve as I know my car and Mike's car both had them stick open while sitting for extended times. The cartridges themselves started coming with restrictors built in at the time of the LS1 kits but LPE adds about a .026 restrictor to each oil inlet of the turbo if memory serves me correct. The only other oil issue i ran into is with the use of the weldon pump. If you are using this scavenge pump, you should also be running a one way check valve (maybe .5 psi crack pressure) between the pump and the oil pan so the oil cannot run back down to the passenger turbo while sitting."

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I don’t have the oil drain tanks that sit under the turbos on my kit so the oil will sit in the turbos when I turn off the car. I have the scavenge pump hooked to the fuel pump switch so I just hit the key 3 times every time I turn off the car and that primes the pump and sucks the oil out of the turbos. If I forget to do that it will smoke the next time I start the car for about 5 minutes.
I never had a problem. Now that my car has been sitting for 6 weeks with a blown rear, I notice oil in the pass. side I/C and in the tube too. I start it and warm it up every 2 weeks. Maybe my check valve is stuck?
Soon as I put the new rear in I will see if the problem goes away after a few spirited runs.

 

hmmm good info. My incon kit prolly has the most miles on it and it doesnt smoke like that on decel. I DO have the little drain tanks though and a weldon pump.

 

My line that goes back into the pan is above the oil level . . . do you guys have it below? If mine is above the oil level in the pan then I shouldn't need a checkvalve, right?

As far as the checkvalve at the pan BEFORE the turbos, I've pulled off the lines and didn't get any oil to come out, that should tell me it's working fine, right? 'Cause when we were putting the motor back in that checkvalve got bent to the side some; I wonder if that could be the problem? And even if it was, wouldn't I see oil in the driver's side too?

- Dug

 

I guess those drain tanks are for collecting the oil from both directions, not just for the oil draining out of the turbo when you shut it off but for the oil draining back from the pump to the turbo. They give it a place to go.
Id put mine back on but they sit so low that they would rip off on a NJ pothole. The roads here are sht.