Well I'm almost done, but have some questions. First, Did you tighten the crank pulley bolt more than the 40ft.lbs. + 120degrees? That's how much we tightened mine plus a tad for good luck. But when the engine is running, it looks like it's not flat on the stock pulley (no sc belt on). And can that bolt be reused if I want to try to re-seat the pulley? Second, how tight should the belt be? The tensioner screw that goes up and down has a nut on it above the bracket for I don't know why, but when I tighten the screw down until it's touching the nut which is touching thw bracket, I can still wiggle the belt some (ie. I can grab and pull it down maybe an inch), but the book says no slack. Like metal rod-no slack, or is it fine? Third how far over to the edge are your intercooler mounting studs? I made 2 holes but I guess they are to far in because I can't get a bolt in one of them.

 

The crank bolt needs to be a lot tighter then 40lbs. Also you will need to cut the bolt shorter and remove two washers. Call GWP or talk with Black T/A, I can't remember the amounts.

Sounds like your belt is to long.

For the intercoolers, I believe it is about an inch to an inch and a half, from the edges.

Hope this helps
Jay

 

Hey Azzhauler,
I just finished up my belt tightening experience.
The nut on top of the bracket is like a locking nut, loosen it and the lower tensioner bolt(bottom side of the car) till it slides up and down freely. Get the top long screw and turn it down until the slack in the belt is gone.
I tightened the belt until I could "pluck" the side of it and it made humm sound. Kinda goofy way to describe this but.... this should equal to a little less than .5 in deflection on the belt. Tighten the tensioner bolt and then screw the locking nut agaisnt the bracket last. It should be set.
Also spray the belt with belt dressing for insurance against slipping.
My belt number is Gates K060365 21mmX945mm
for reference.

ATI Crank pulley did you rotate it counter clock wise till the dowels caught the tabs on the LS1 crank pulley?
I used two washers on my bolt and so far so good. Did you put the washer between the ATI CP and the LS1 CP?I hope not. (just making sure they are where they should be, on the bolt not inbetween pulleys)
I did the 40ft lbs. plus a little more too. Its not like you are reseating the stock crank pulley on the end of the crankshaft this requires torquing the bolt down to 220-240ftlbs with the old bolt and then using a new bolt and then torquing it down to 40ftlb + 120degs.
If I remember everything right don't qoute me on exact numbers because I a little old at 28yrs of age <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Hope this helps in some way
J

<small>[ November 17, 2002, 07:51 PM: Message edited by: frcefed98 ]</small>

 

Oh yeah intercooler position,
Go to black LS1 T/A site and print the pics from there to reference or go to my site if you need more pics to print out.
www.jeremybazan.com
This is how I mounted my IC's from visual reference since I didn't have a manual at the time.
J

 

If you jut got your kit the crank bolt is the right length. Mine came cut off from the factory.

Also i had to cut the small diameter on the pully that locates on the harmonic balancer because it was to big and wouldnt fit. GM must of had a wide open tolerance on that dia because i called ATI to see if my pulley was the wrong size but it was right on to there specs.

The intercooler mounting holes are easy. just look at the picture for ref. The ones on the pasenger side are that hardest to get in. Slide them in threw the small whole and use you little finger and a punch on the outside to prop them up so they will drop down in the holes. Just be patient.

The kit took me two days to install but i took my sweet *** time and did a nice job.

 

frcefed98: Do you have the d1sc head unit? My kit (8psi) came with a 4" sc pulley (which I called ati to make sure was 8#s) and a 21mmx985mm belt. Maybe I got he belt for a 4.2" pulley? I hope not, that's gonna be a pita to change it.

And my crank bolt did look like it had been cut, it was blue, but the end was shiny metal like they went back and cut it down. It was about 3/4" longer than stock I believe. 1 washer was all I got.

Got the intercoolers on. Had to drill some extra holes and slot some others <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" /> , but it fits.

We're gettin the pulley straight. When you take the bolt out, does your pulley easily come off? Mine is on there, for good I think.

 

Yep I have the D1. As for the pulley size I am still trying to find out what the frick I have <img border="0" alt="[Banging Head]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_banghead.gif" />
I will call ATI tomorrow to see what they sent me.
I am seeing 7psi tho after the belt tightening.
My bolt was shiny on the end with one washer, too... I just got my kit about 2-3 weeks ago. So I am pretty sure I got a updated bolt too. I was reading about the washers and bolt cutting on a search I ran and did the two washer thing to be on the safe side. I didn't know if ATI had fixed this problem or not.
As for the Crank pulleys they fit together perfectly. No play or interference. I had to get a new crank pulley because I took mine off to clean all the crud build up and dropped the thing on the drive way and cracked it.
Maybe there were changes in crankpulleys from GM?
Do you have a M6 or an auto?
My pulleys are all lined up perfectly too, straight as an arrow. Did you get your bracket spacers right? I have an automatic and it took a long spacer on the Idler pulley on the engine(not the ATI idler) and the shorter spacer on the lower bracket bolt closest to the crankpulley. This bolt has the bracket for the transmission lines attached to it.
other than that I don't know why they wouldn't be lining up. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />
J

 

Saw that you have a M6, so that spacer stuff is out the window <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />
Keep us posted.
J

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by AzzHauler:
<strong>frcefed98: Do you have the d1sc head unit? My kit (8psi) came with a 4" sc pulley (which I called ati to make sure was 8#s) and a 21mmx985mm belt. Maybe I got he belt for a 4.2" pulley? I hope not, that's gonna be a pita to change it.

And my crank bolt did look like it had been cut, it was blue, but the end was shiny metal like they went back and cut it down. It was about 3/4" longer than stock I believe. 1 washer was all I got.

Got the intercoolers on. Had to drill some extra holes and slot some others <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" /> , but it fits.

We're gettin the pulley straight. When you take the bolt out, does your pulley easily come off? Mine is on there, for good I think.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">According to my packing list from ATI. A 4in pulley is the 4.55-5psi, 3.4in (7psi),3.2in (8psi). I also ordered the 8# kit and received a 4in pulley. To confuse even more, the entire packing list is for a P1SC, I ordered the D1SC, and did receive a D1. I now think I have the wrong pulley? ..........Angelo

 

When I increased my RWHP with the pulley, header and injector change, I had a problem where the last spacer/washer would wallow out where the head of the bolt rests, and create slack for the ATI pulley to spin free on the bolt.
First, this slipping would make you lose boost, which is a first indication you have this problem.

Then, you can eventually hear the vibration of the ATI crank pulley as it wobbles about the bolt. At this point, when you pop the hood and investigate the noise, if you have the engine running, you can see the slight wobble of the pulley as the belt travels around it.

I finally solved this issue, with some advice from Jason, by cutting the ATI bolt to a precise length where only ONE washer gets used.

Since each car may vary ever so slightly, you have to find the length yourself.

Here's what I did:

I screwed the ATI bolt in, with the ATI pulley in place, and screwed it as far in as I could where the crank started to turn. I measured how much space was left. I backed the bolt back out and added about 3/16" to the space I measured and cut the bolt. The bolt is very hard, very tough. So, be prepare to cut a while, even with a good cutting tool.

Then, I used ONE washer/spacer when I screwed it back in with some Red Loctite to the spec that ATI recommends.

If you trusted that the assumption that three washers is enough to get the bolt tight, you could measure the thickness of the washers, but some of us have had to get an extra washer or two for the bolt not to bottom out.

This is the only sure way I know to do it.

Again, I got the original suggestion to cut the bolt from Jason at GWP. I think he knew where to place a scribe tool inside the crank threaded hole to measure the depth the bolt would go, but I couldn't determine exactly how far the bolt would screw in doing that, since the hole can be machined back deeper than the thread goes.

Good luck!

 

A DEE O: That's what my packing list said too. But I called ati and they said 4" sc pulley on the d1=8 psi. So I have to assume they are right.

Finally stopped raining around here, I can hook up the surge valve line and play with the pulley some more now. Then find out for sure my belt is too big. I'm just scared I'm gonna break something expensive.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" />

 

frcefed98: The pulley size should be etched in the pulley. You'll have to take the head unit off though to see it unless you are creative with some mirrors.

<small>[ November 18, 2002, 07:22 AM: Message edited by: AzzHauler ]</small>

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by AzzHauler:
<strong>A DEE O: That's what my packing list said too. But I called ati and they said 4" sc pulley on the d1=8 psi. So I have to assume they are right.
</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">AzzHauler, they are VERY wrong about that.
I'm at sea level, have a D-1SC and made the most boost of ANYBODY that said they used a 4.10" pulley. I got 5 PSI out of it at 6000 RPMs. At 6500, it peaked at 7 PSI. I guess I may have gotten 8 PSI out of it if I rev'd to 7-grand. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

Azzhauler
I just got off the phone with Dorian @ ati. They sent me the 3.4in pulley and he said I would be at 7psi with this pulley and I told him he was dead on.
He is sending me the 3.2in pulley so I can get the 9psi that I orginally ordered in the first place.
I guess I get smaller pullies because I am higher up
5500ft above sea level.
He said the belt I have is good until I go smaller than 3.0 in. So you might give him a call to see if you have the right belt for your set up.
Black LS1 TA thanks for the heads up on the bolts, I will be watching mine closely.
Thanks,
Jeremy <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

Not a prob! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Hey, forcefed. I was on the phone with ATI this morning and here is what they told me. In my situation with the way my car is set up, headers,cam etc. I want to go with a 3.6in pulley to see 8-10psi. If I put on a 3.2in he told me I would see 12-15psi, way too much for stock CR. If I kept the 4.0in I would be lucky to see 4.5-5psi. My head unit is already on it's way to ATI and they are going to replace the pulley at no charge. He tried to tell me the place I got the kit should have known that because I have open exhaust and a cam, the 4.0in pulley would not give me what I was looking for boost wise. I hope all this helps, let's keep eachother informed of what boost we are seeing...........Angelo