Iron block VS Alum
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Georgia
Re: Iron block VS Alum Originally posted by Danny:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">75lbs????? Yeah right! Try 120lbs+ The iron block is heavy. Of course you can always lighten the frontend up. But i'm still going w/ me set up. Check it out....</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
Yeah Right I have no idea where you got your numbers from but I just installed my IRON block this past weekend and I promise you it dosen't weigh 120+ pounds more.
Originally posted by Sawedoff:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">In fact an aluminum block customarily would set you back about $4500-$6000. If you prepare the block with quality machine work, by somebody other than these fly-by-night speed shops that popped up in the last six years, I doubt highly that you will ever shatter it for street use. Look for somebody that has a long track record to do the block work. Use quality components, and fastener hardware (not SCAT or Probe Industries). I will strongly disagree with the bullsh*t statement of, "it being easier and cheaper to fix cast iron." It's not cheaper. Aluminum is by far way much easier to repair, if things decide to go south. I wouldn't even screw with a stroker crank if you use boost. Heat soaks not even a valid excuse either. That can easily be fixed and overcome.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
What???? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> $4500-$6000 for an aluminum block? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
As said I just put in my iron block this weekend and I only have about $1000 in it including the cost of the block. Oh yeah it was prepared by a reputable shop too that builds Pro Stock Motors(the block that is)
So let me see 70-80lbs or $3500 t0 $5000 more in cost for an aluminum one....hmmmm....wait a minute that paid for that Stroker crank and the cam and some other things too....LOL <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
As far as getting the larger bore all you have to do to the iron is have it bored .030 and put in a 4.0 stroke crank and imagine that a 408. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
I can lose that 70lbs very easy. As a matter of a fact the Vortech SC that I just sold weighed about 82 pounds according to UPS when I just shipped it.
<small>[ January 30, 2003, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: Chad00ws6 ]</small>
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">75lbs????? Yeah right! Try 120lbs+ The iron block is heavy. Of course you can always lighten the frontend up. But i'm still going w/ me set up. Check it out....</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
Yeah Right I have no idea where you got your numbers from but I just installed my IRON block this past weekend and I promise you it dosen't weigh 120+ pounds more.
Originally posted by Sawedoff:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">In fact an aluminum block customarily would set you back about $4500-$6000. If you prepare the block with quality machine work, by somebody other than these fly-by-night speed shops that popped up in the last six years, I doubt highly that you will ever shatter it for street use. Look for somebody that has a long track record to do the block work. Use quality components, and fastener hardware (not SCAT or Probe Industries). I will strongly disagree with the bullsh*t statement of, "it being easier and cheaper to fix cast iron." It's not cheaper. Aluminum is by far way much easier to repair, if things decide to go south. I wouldn't even screw with a stroker crank if you use boost. Heat soaks not even a valid excuse either. That can easily be fixed and overcome.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">
What???? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> $4500-$6000 for an aluminum block? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
As said I just put in my iron block this weekend and I only have about $1000 in it including the cost of the block. Oh yeah it was prepared by a reputable shop too that builds Pro Stock Motors(the block that is)
So let me see 70-80lbs or $3500 t0 $5000 more in cost for an aluminum one....hmmmm....wait a minute that paid for that Stroker crank and the cam and some other things too....LOL <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
As far as getting the larger bore all you have to do to the iron is have it bored .030 and put in a 4.0 stroke crank and imagine that a 408. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
I can lose that 70lbs very easy. As a matter of a fact the Vortech SC that I just sold weighed about 82 pounds according to UPS when I just shipped it.
<small>[ January 30, 2003, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: Chad00ws6 ]</small>
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Raleigh, NC
Re: Iron block VS Alum </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 2001WS6Vert:
<strong> I agree that the threads pulling out of aluminum sounds like it might be an issue. If somebody has some info on it please respond. I get tired of being dogged because I chose to do aluminum over iron, or I chose a Vortech over an ATI or a turbo, or whatever else people do differently. There are many ways to mod. I just think that it is strange how very quickly everybody has started jumping on the iron block for forced induction thing when I never saw the failures with aluminum. Iron-cool, aluminum-cool, turbo-cool, Vortech-cool, ATI-cool, heads/cam-cool, nitrous-cool, any car well thought out and put together can be impressive in a variety of ways. There may be only one way to rock, but there's a million ways to mod. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I agree with EVERYTHING you just said...
It actually appears to me, when you read the post, that people started to exaggerate and try to debunk some simple facts Pro Stock John, myself, BlkKnight and a few others were saying about the Iron Block. If you can get an Alum Block to work, more power to ya. I just wasn't willing to risk it with the levels I hope to eventually attain unless I could have afforded a C5R block.
I say, enjoy what you've built, and if it stays together, more power to ya! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
<strong> I agree that the threads pulling out of aluminum sounds like it might be an issue. If somebody has some info on it please respond. I get tired of being dogged because I chose to do aluminum over iron, or I chose a Vortech over an ATI or a turbo, or whatever else people do differently. There are many ways to mod. I just think that it is strange how very quickly everybody has started jumping on the iron block for forced induction thing when I never saw the failures with aluminum. Iron-cool, aluminum-cool, turbo-cool, Vortech-cool, ATI-cool, heads/cam-cool, nitrous-cool, any car well thought out and put together can be impressive in a variety of ways. There may be only one way to rock, but there's a million ways to mod. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I agree with EVERYTHING you just said...
It actually appears to me, when you read the post, that people started to exaggerate and try to debunk some simple facts Pro Stock John, myself, BlkKnight and a few others were saying about the Iron Block. If you can get an Alum Block to work, more power to ya. I just wasn't willing to risk it with the levels I hope to eventually attain unless I could have afforded a C5R block.
I say, enjoy what you've built, and if it stays together, more power to ya! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
Re: Iron block VS Alum Because its Much cheaper to mass produce Iron blocks, Taperformace just release an alternative to Grand national owners who cant afford the stage 2 block, its an all aluminium core that can handle at LEAST 1800 hp (their quote) the c5r block is aluminium, Pacific performace here in Florida has a honda putting down 680whp from the stock aluminium block with Iron sleeves,( notice I said stock block, not rotating assemble) same with Cybernation motorsports and all the honda tuners across America. aluminum blocks can handle lots of power, and if the are sleeved they are right up there with iron. [/QB
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Great reading info. I've got a free library.
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Great reading info. I've got a free library.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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Re: Iron block VS Alum We are currently building a 414 using the cast iron block ($600) and it only weighs 70 lbs more than my alum block. We replaced all of the front components and steering rack with light weight stuff that more than offsets the additional weight.
CI is much less costly and easier for most people to work with.
CI is much less costly and easier for most people to work with.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 362
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From: Maple Grove MN
Re: Iron block VS Alum If anybody wants to know I just came across the formula for calculating cubic inches.
Bore X Bore X Stroke X 0.7854 X 8 = Cubic Inches
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
Bore X Bore X Stroke X 0.7854 X 8 = Cubic Inches
<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
Re: Iron block VS Alum When I first got into LS1's about 3 years ago, I lived on the other site. Back then, there were quite a few guys lifting the heads under boost w/ the aluminum block. Been way over a year since I've heard of it happening. A sponsor told me last summer that the problem had been fixed. Something about the head bolts being used now, heads studs, something like that. Can't remember it all now. If I do decide to go FI, and I probably will, I have no worries about using an aluminum block.
