Nickn20

this was a fun one to read

Frost

iTrader: (45)

bump...

Nickn20

I suppose I can post for RW99 since im doing the install, his car runs, I had some problems with the alternator bracket and belt tensioner which included slotting of of the holes a little to get the alternator alignment right, We also had to weld on a plate to the back of the bracket to sit flat to the cylinder head so it would stop flexing from happening. They are good kits, just gotta get the bugs worked out, hopefully I can get a hold of Dalton soon to pass this info on to him as well as the oil return line parts I used, and the method of drilling a hole big enough in the side of the pan for a 1/2" NPT fitting while in the car, this is not for the faint of heart I also have a backup method that I feel would work good, and you could drill 7/16" holes in the pan. we also had some issues with the fuel system having a DOA fuel pump, still need to get that second one replaced ASAP. Oh we still have to fab up some kind of over the axle catback with a single muffler, even though its not really that loud through the open exhaust, I would like to see how much power if any is being lost going through the down pipe extension that cross over the tranny.

My next PTK install will commence in a month or so, I have a iron 8.7:1 402 with AFR 225s sitting here, with a PTK kit w/GTS 76 that I want to send off to Jose at forced inductions for the 80mm upgrade, this motor will really need that. This setup will really output some power, goal is 800 rwhp on some crappy 91 octane.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

I appreciate the info... I'm passing it along to my installer.

Thanks again.

Nickn20

you will also need an extra idler pulley for the tensioner, and a new belt, PTK said 78.5 but that belt has stretched a little and they are touching now, so I am going to have to get a 78" on there. part number for the idler I used is 12564401

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Thanks alot, I really appreciate the info.... anything else you saw/came across; plase feel to chime in.

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

Hey Frost, what's up?

My installer has been done for some time with the bulk of the install. He's putting miles on the new clutch and rear end for the proper break-in. He's also running it alot to make all the piping go through various and intense heat cycles and then tighten up everything again. Dyno and final tune will be done Thursday or Friday.

He has reported to me no problems except for the crossover pipe. He told me he's done ALOT to MAKE it work without going back to stock springs (I have a 1" drop). It's been pressed/crushed ( ) and I was happy to hear from him today they have enough clearance now to go over small speedbumps without scraping the crossover WITH the 1" drop.

I was really happy about that. It's a weekend car and I don't plan on ever going over ANY speedbumps. I don't know what else he did though to make the clearance work so well. I guess I'll see when I get my car this Saturday.

Alternator problems? I'm sure my installer went through them... obviously not a big deal becuase he's never mentioned it and my engine is run idling each day for some heat cycles and he drives it around to break in the Spec.

Sound? Heh... He says it sounds like a Semi-truck just hitting 5 psi.

Well, tubular headers, turbo, and basically no exhaust, i.e. Loudmouth.

I really like it loud, I don't mind the tickets.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Geez I have had minor issue after minor issue... It's not my installer's fault, I just have have rotten luck following me around. Did you know, for instance, that LS1 windage trays for sale are damn near as rare as the Holy Grail?? Sure, every engine has one, but no one seemed to have one to part with. 3 months ago I ordered one from GMpartsdirect.com.... they could not even give me a rough idea of when it would ship as of the week I received it. They said it could be 3 months (more), they didn't know. 3 Junkyards wanted me to buy the pan, pickup, and tray together. I had the other items... Oh yeah, the lst 2 JYs wanted 200+ for those parts. I had made at 4 threads in parts wanted and continually bumped them.... I asked folks that sold parted out stuff.... Finally I bit the bullet and paid a user here 50 bucks to ship one quickly to my builder. Lo and behold, that same night I got an email from GM parts direct showing the 13 dollar tray I ordered months before, and other bits, were already on their way.

A&A decided to not go with the cam we talked about on the phone and shipped one of their off the shelf blower grinds... so I had to go through Cam Motion to get a custom stick ground... Cam Motion are EXCELLENT. Too bad they aren't sponsors. I have dealt with LOTS of different vendors since I started this, and the ones that stick out the most are Harris Speed Works, Cam Motion, Dynotune, Jose from Forced Inductions (who was subjected to a seemingly limitless barrage of questioning including a few long calls), and LS1tech user sales.

The long block with all covers should be together by tomorrow morning and then they start to take the car apart and pull the engine...

The only thing that's carrying me through is the fact that I picked up another F-body (Z28 auto) right before Christmas for less than the cost of our kit without turbo that is gonna become my daily driver. And of course it needs little bits like a lid, headers, torque arm and nitrous

Is your installer gonna do the final tune with you, or will you pick it up already tweaked? Any choice details he's given you? If you are getting yours back in the next few weeks I may have to fly down to Miami for a day-trip

RW99

The end is in sight now, as NickN20 has reported. Once the fuel pumps are finished and the methanol is rigged it should be ready for its first tuning session.

Nick, I'm thinking go ahead and tune it with the exhaust unfinished, then do the 9" swap and complete the exhaust.

I'm a little jealous of the next PTK install Nick does, since the bugs are being worked out on my car. Oh, well.

Guys, please post up with your numbers when you're tuned...

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

Those are times you swear there's a little black cloud over you. I know...

Ah, the Z28... I was wondering whether that car had always been on your sig... I thought I was going crazy. Good stuff!

I'm trusting their judgement with the tune, and if they weren't so far (~6 hour drive), I'd be there for alot of the steps. However, I gonna have to settle for just going and picking it up when it's done. I'm supposed to get it this Saturday ( WHAT?).

Hey, if you're in town, let me know. You'll be certain you're in Miami when, now in our winter, you check the local temperature and it's 90-something.

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

Hey, taking it for the team there, huh?

Don't worry... I have the honor for my installer as well. The next one they do will be done much more quickly thanks to going nuts on my car... But hey, it's what we gotta go through, if we wanted a front-mount. There are considerably many more difficulties the installer has to sort out. If we wanted easy, we would have gotten an STS, maybe?

It'll all pay off for all of us and our installers when our cars are done. BTW, I'm getting a pair of Fuel Rail Covers from Afterthoughtsauto.com delivered this week, too. One corner of the passenger side panel may have to be notched and painted a little bit due to the relocated alternator, but they will look pimp. They are painted MRM, lettered in black, in Trans Am-style laser-cut reading one line "LS1 Turbo" and on another line the stock Vette's lettering "5.7 EFI."

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

Oh, and you guys will like the front "grill... " for the FMIC to breathe through. I got the idea from a Procharged black TA on the FI forum here.

The mesh will be black... matching my wheels, calipers, and rear bumper lower valance.

braap

iTrader: (4)

Do you know who they'll have tuning it? I've only had experience with Jeremy, but the other guys seem pretty knowledgeable. I think you're in good hands...Dino and the gang are a cool bunch.

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

You know, I'm trying to keep my mouth shut until I get my car back, and it's hard because I'm so excited about my set-up... but I must be honest... I have a good feeling about these guys, let me tell you.

I've been dealing mostly with Dino and Kyle. It felt good going to the shop to drop off my car and seeing so many F-body's... and knowing the shop owner is a hardcore TA guy.

HA! BTW, That's a funny sig.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

How many psi will you pick it up running? You were having the valve springs swapped too right?

Saturday is the day eh.... I'm stoked to hear that, and it's not even mine.

Darren P

iTrader: (1)

sent you a PM

Nickn20

here is a pic of the oil return in the pan, sorry for the crappy pic all I got right now, but it works.



the fitting is a 1/2" NPT male swivel 90 -10 male, this fitting puts the line closest to the pan, while still giving you proper drainage, you can see how close it is to the pan and it is still extremely close to the crossover pipe that runs long there, so doing this and heat wrapping the crap out of the cross over pipe will prevent any damage to the line.

the fittings provided in the kit are a 90 degree -10 hose end fitting with a 3/8 NPT male to 10an male fitting that is suppose to be threaded in the pan. doing this method had a major clearance issue with the cross over and would have to be angle up severely and I still dont think it would have worked, pretty sure it just isnt right. I also came up with a second solution that would work also, but the first method was cheaper!

A note on drilling the pan, good luck finding a stubby drill bit of that size for 1/2" NPT, if you can, please send me one! what I did was cut a drill bit in half and resharpened it, I beleive this size was 1/2" or 9/16, I used this bit to start my hole, from there we took a dremel bit in a 90 degree drill and shaved the hole out to exactly 23/32 which is .71875 using a digital caliper this can work quite well, if you have a steady hand, then you can TAP the hole with 1/2" NPT thread.

Again this is doing all of this in the car with approx 6" of clearance between the pan and the kframe, if you have a tubular it might be easier, if the pan is off the car, do this now with regular bits, and taps, you will be so happy you listened to me! haha

the reason why you need -10 is precision requires a .500 ID hose for proper turbo drainage.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Guys, thanks so much for the information in this thread and that you've sent via PMs, I really appreciate it.

Darren P

iTrader: (1)

I put mine on the front of the oilpan like a vortech supercharger has in its instructions because I could not find a 90 degree drill for free
it has more fall like this also

Darren P

iTrader: (1)

if anyone has any questions about any part of the install send me a pm
I have it on my car did the install my self and ran into the same problems listed above, fixed them and have 3000 to 4000 miles on it right now
I have lots of photos and you can pm me for any questions or for a phone ##

and if you have another problem or found a fix for one let me know please