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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 07:15 PM
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what would the best cam spec for my 408 turbo charged project be? I want a solid roller lifter cam.I am looking to make 800rwhp, I have no idea what to make the engine compression ratio. But I do know I do not want to shift past 7000rpm. I have an A-4 with a 3800 stall right now. I am thinking of lowering the stall. I will be driving the car, but it is not my daily driver.
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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Please, anyone have any input?
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Old Feb 12, 2006 | 09:41 PM
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How about a Comp Cams 242/236 solid roller on a billet LSx blank, with a 114 LSA? This would be using their Xtreme Street Roller lobes. This cam sounds huge but is really more like a 224/218 hydraulic roller, but with more power everywhere. 1.6 rockers. You'll get near .600" net lift, and it will spin to around 6800-7000.

Which AFR heads are you going to run?

Jim
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 10:15 PM
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I am starting to think the turbos run reverse split cams alot. Can anyone explain that to me a little? Not trying to be a smart ****, I realy do not know anything about turbo cams.

Yeh it does sound a little big. I guess with the reverse split it would tame it some. Right now I am running the MS3 cam which has 237/241, man does that thing dance! I do love the dancing and rumble, but I will welcome a lower idol ability. right now the car has to idol at 1000rpm or it will not recover when you goose it in gear. But it still rocks and rolls at 1000rpm.

Who would you sugest would be the best place to get a good turbo cam from? Any LS1 specialty shops that also secialize in turbo LS1's around?
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 10:23 PM
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Why go solid roller when you only want 800rwhp and 7k rpm?

Our 225/225 113lsa hyd cam will get you where you want to be.

www.speedinc.com
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 11:15 PM
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Yeh not revving past 7k is not taking advantage of one of the benefits of having a solid roller in the first place.
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Old Feb 13, 2006 | 11:26 PM
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I have explained this in other post and I will try and do it again.

First, I personal like solid rollers over hydrolic rollers. I like the sound they make, I should say.

Second, I am presently running the MS3 with my factory hydrolic rollers. The hydrolic rollers loose their prime at low idol and make alot of noise. They also loose their prime at higher rpms. Now the problem may be my high milage lifters, but with solids I will know the valve lash will not be in question to the lifter loosing its prime.

I have always had very good results from solid rollers in the past. Yes, they do require a little more upkeep but the dependability is strong with them.

If I am going to have a hydrolic roller that is noisy, then I want a solid that I know is not loosing its prime in the higher rpm levels.

I just sleep better at night nowing little things like the lifters are not loosing their prime causing issues.
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 03:30 AM
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Though aggressive hydraulic rollers are becoming more available, the modern street roller, like Comp Cams Xtreme Street Rollers deliver more valve lift for a greater length of time. They are more intense: The 230/236 @ .050" is only rated advertised duration of 268/274. It will idle about the same as like a 222/228 hydraulic roller, but rev like a 236/242 hyd roller and not lay down until a higher rpm. Generally more lift and less overlap as well.

They only need adjustment every 10K miles or so, and if you're engine is that strong it's good to check the valvetrain out anyways.

Jim
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 06:53 PM
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Thanks guys
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