Has anyone gotten tired of Forced Induction?
03-03-2006, 10:35 AM
#22
Originally Posted by FIREHAWK#608
I had 275 Firehawk SZ50's (factory SLP), now I have Eagle F1's.
What tires aside from BF KD's should I use? This car never sees rain and is only driven 3k miles per year. It does have to have some sidewall though
(no drag radials) because I tear up the mountain twisties as often as possible.
Thanks guys.
What tires aside from BF KD's should I use? This car never sees rain and is only driven 3k miles per year. It does have to have some sidewall though
(no drag radials) because I tear up the mountain twisties as often as possible.
Thanks guys.
Personally I'm about to buy some big n littles for the track, but on the street I picked nitto's 555r DRs, because they seem to be the most forgiving of water (this consensus based on ther's experiences). If you drive your car enough in the summer, soon or later you'll end up in a shower.
Last edited by Frost; 03-03-2006 at 11:18 AM.
03-03-2006, 10:47 AM
#25
Originally Posted by White.Lightning
LOL good point. So are the ET street radials a good choice for my rear tires?!?
Andy
Andy
If you dont want to swap tires for different things then your not serious enough about traction..........................
03-03-2006, 10:48 AM
#26
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My 3:73 gears and Procharger are a good match on the street. Granted I am an A4 but all the power is still controllable. Of coarse I can light them up if I wanted as well. 
No I will never get tired of it.
No I will never get tired of it.
03-03-2006, 10:52 AM
#27
Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
Ill be going with the ET Street Radials on my setup bro....... and if it do get caught in the rain.... il slow way the hell down..... On my Nitto's i would slow down to about 40-50 on the freeway in a downpour.... now id probably pull off to the shoulder till it was over........ It the price ya have to pay to play.....
If you dont want to swap tires for different things then your not serious enough about traction..........................
If you dont want to swap tires for different things then your not serious enough about traction..........................
Then I will get a standard radial out front for the street.
Andy
03-03-2006, 10:57 AM
#28
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I NEED the 4.11's because of the cam, it would have insane cam surge if I had the 3.42's
It already bucks if the rpm goes below 1500 on the street.
Also, my car has been in the 11's when I borrowed a set of drag radials at the track, and that's still with a 2.10 60 ft.
This car will never see rain because I check the doppler radar everytime I drive. I still need to have some side wall because straight line drag stripping isn't something I do often. I just want to be able to roll into the throttle and not have it spin?
Just curious what you guys were doing to control it. I guess the boost power delivery is a lil' different than the on/off switch I currently have.
It already bucks if the rpm goes below 1500 on the street.
Also, my car has been in the 11's when I borrowed a set of drag radials at the track, and that's still with a 2.10 60 ft.
This car will never see rain because I check the doppler radar everytime I drive. I still need to have some side wall because straight line drag stripping isn't something I do often. I just want to be able to roll into the throttle and not have it spin?
Just curious what you guys were doing to control it. I guess the boost power delivery is a lil' different than the on/off switch I currently have.
Last edited by FIREHAWK#608; 03-03-2006 at 11:06 AM.
03-03-2006, 11:12 AM
#29
Originally Posted by FIREHAWK#608
I NEED the 4.11's because of the cam, it would have insane cam surge if I had the 3.42's
It already bucks if the rpm goes below 1500 on the street.
Also, my car has been in the 11's when I borrowed a set of drag radials at the track, and that's still with a 2.10 60 ft.
This car will never see rain because I check the doppler radar everytime I drive. I still need to have some side wall because straight line drag stripping isn't something I do often. I just want to be able to roll into the throttle and not have it spin?
Just curious what you guys were doing to control it. I guess the boost power delivery is a lil' different than the on/off switch I currently have.
It already bucks if the rpm goes below 1500 on the street.
Also, my car has been in the 11's when I borrowed a set of drag radials at the track, and that's still with a 2.10 60 ft.
This car will never see rain because I check the doppler radar everytime I drive. I still need to have some side wall because straight line drag stripping isn't something I do often. I just want to be able to roll into the throttle and not have it spin?
Just curious what you guys were doing to control it. I guess the boost power delivery is a lil' different than the on/off switch I currently have.
BUT.... you will be replacing this cam id you go FI and replacing the rear gears at the same time.......
Who tuned it??? doesnt sound like they did a good job.... my old cam was bigger then that and in a A4... and idled fine at 750 rpm.
It all goes hand in hand......
Kyle
03-03-2006, 11:20 AM
#31
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Nasty, it's not idle. It idles perfectly.. 
I'm talking about letting the engine go below 1500 in gear without the throttle cracked open at all. If it start's to buck @1450 I barely crack the throttle and it wont surge. It surged around 1800 before I got the gears.
As soon as I get married 4 months from now my budget can go toward the FI. I think that if I get a cam 220's on a 115 LSA with less gear it'll settle down, but I bet traction will still be an issue regardless.
I didn't know about the 555 RII's. I'll have to check out the feedback on 'em. Thanks.
I'm talking about letting the engine go below 1500 in gear without the throttle cracked open at all. If it start's to buck @1450 I barely crack the throttle and it wont surge. It surged around 1800 before I got the gears.
As soon as I get married 4 months from now my budget can go toward the FI. I think that if I get a cam 220's on a 115 LSA with less gear it'll settle down, but I bet traction will still be an issue regardless.
I didn't know about the 555 RII's. I'll have to check out the feedback on 'em. Thanks.
03-03-2006, 11:21 AM
#32
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What you need is like a LPE GT2-3, some 3.42's and FI. You cam/gears are your problem...plus the hard F1's.
If you are serious about getting FI, you might as well be serious about having two sets of rear wheels. Nitto 555R's work good, I belive some folks have used them on the autocross track. Just so you know, R-compound tires will hook better on the street than those F1's...and I mean road race R-compounds (like Nitto R2's or NT01's).
Tires, taller gears, and get rid of that big ol cam. You'll want more power.
If you are serious about getting FI, you might as well be serious about having two sets of rear wheels. Nitto 555R's work good, I belive some folks have used them on the autocross track. Just so you know, R-compound tires will hook better on the street than those F1's...and I mean road race R-compounds (like Nitto R2's or NT01's).
Tires, taller gears, and get rid of that big ol cam. You'll want more power.
03-03-2006, 11:35 AM
#34
your tires, tune, gears, and driving style are all in question... there is no magic dust you can sprinkle to make traction happen (ive researched it)
follow these steps until your problem is gone
1. buy drag radials (315 bfg's or 275 mt's)
2. switch down rear gears (if requires you to change tune/cam oh well)
3. change to a more aggressive lca angle
4. lower tire pressure (i run maybe 15psi on the street out back)
5. remove front swaybar / softer springs
6. add weight (stereo, dead body, golf equip. etc.)
shameless plug (my version of a traction problem)
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/migh...C5763CB293.htm
27*11.5's, 13psi, pump gas, prepped surface, 3.42's, sway removed, qa1 drag shocks/springs, lca's lowered, 3750# as raced
follow these steps until your problem is gone
1. buy drag radials (315 bfg's or 275 mt's)
2. switch down rear gears (if requires you to change tune/cam oh well)
3. change to a more aggressive lca angle
4. lower tire pressure (i run maybe 15psi on the street out back)
5. remove front swaybar / softer springs
6. add weight (stereo, dead body, golf equip. etc.)
shameless plug (my version of a traction problem)
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/migh...C5763CB293.htm
27*11.5's, 13psi, pump gas, prepped surface, 3.42's, sway removed, qa1 drag shocks/springs, lca's lowered, 3750# as raced
03-03-2006, 11:36 AM
#36
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Originally Posted by White.Lightning
I'm asking if I should get the ET street radials for a rear tire. I have the Hoosier QTP DOT's for the track. I am asking if I should just get the ET street radials in place of a "regular" tire since I will need to be replacing my tires real soon?
Then I will get a standard radial out front for the street.
Andy
Then I will get a standard radial out front for the street.
Andy
03-03-2006, 11:39 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
your tires, tune, gears, and driving style are all in question... there is no magic dust you can sprinkle to make traction happen (ive researched it)
follow these steps until your problem is gone
1. buy drag radials (315 bfg's or 275 mt's)
2. switch down rear gears (if requires you to change tune/cam oh well)
3. change to a more aggressive lca angle
4. lower tire pressure (i run maybe 15psi on the street out back)
5. remove front swaybar / softer springs
6. add weight (stereo, dead body, golf equip. etc.)
shameless plug (my version of a traction problem)
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/migh...C5763CB293.htm
27*11.5's, 13psi, pump gas, prepped surface, 3.42's, sway removed, qa1 drag shocks/springs, lca's lowered, 3750# as raced
follow these steps until your problem is gone
1. buy drag radials (315 bfg's or 275 mt's)
2. switch down rear gears (if requires you to change tune/cam oh well)
3. change to a more aggressive lca angle
4. lower tire pressure (i run maybe 15psi on the street out back)
5. remove front swaybar / softer springs
6. add weight (stereo, dead body, golf equip. etc.)
shameless plug (my version of a traction problem)
http://video.ls1tech.com/search/migh...C5763CB293.htm
27*11.5's, 13psi, pump gas, prepped surface, 3.42's, sway removed, qa1 drag shocks/springs, lca's lowered, 3750# as raced
No the posi is great. It'll leave twin skids all through 2nd.
Thanks for the tips. -Joshua
03-03-2006, 11:40 AM
#39
Originally Posted by FIREHAWK#608
Possibly getting smoked by a car with less than 1/2 the hp I already have is worrying me. I've actually thought of de-modding a little bit (smaller cam) to lessen the peakiness.
03-03-2006, 11:41 AM
#40
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I guess "peakiness" was a bad description. Sorry. More like "bulk of power that hits hard when the power curve starts." On/Off
It's pretty clear now. FI and 600 hp is good I just need the widen my rims to 11" and get some stickier rubber for the time being until the combo changes.
It's pretty clear now. FI and 600 hp is good I just need the widen my rims to 11" and get some stickier rubber for the time being until the combo changes.