what meth kit do you recomend?
05-12-2006, 10:40 AM
#1
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what meth kit do you recomend? i am thinking of getting a meth kit setup is going to be a pt76gts front mount i have a intercooler. I just want to be able to run a good amount of boost without going to race gas. I do have 6.0 L heads that are going on to lower compression also.
05-12-2006, 11:24 AM
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There are three of us locally who run Julio's alkycontrol kit. Awesome product. Only had one problem. One of the guys had a leaky pump and Julio sent out a new one right away. Great man to deal with
05-12-2006, 12:14 PM
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i know about yourse jose =) just seeing if there is anything else out there =) I will probly be picking up one of yours the question is when... The car is in the shop getting fixed cause i hit a freakin deer that jumped out on me!! once i get it back is when i will start putting the turbo on.
05-12-2006, 05:22 PM
#6
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Hey you guys aren't too far from me.
Looks like you are mostly turbo not super, but would you recommend the GM MAF kit or just the regular stage II from snow.
I'm running a non-aftercooled vortech setup right now and want to increase the boost/timing with one of these kits instead of the aftercooler assembly.
Looks like you are mostly turbo not super, but would you recommend the GM MAF kit or just the regular stage II from snow.
I'm running a non-aftercooled vortech setup right now and want to increase the boost/timing with one of these kits instead of the aftercooler assembly.
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05-12-2006, 09:47 PM
#8
I've been researching the current methanol injection market and I still have not found what I need. I need a kit with an adjustable progressive controller that can read off a boost line and have fail safe circuitry. Whos does this? Devilsown is map sensor read. Most others don't have fail safe features. I'll be using it to max out my setup and couldn't risk failure of the meth inj.
05-12-2006, 11:37 PM
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93formto98T/A The only company that has a fail safe that actually works is aquamist. We have something that should be out shortly that will work similar for less money. Some of the other companys sell a hobs switch that they say can detect a problem but its honestly junk. Its a waist of money and i will not put my name on that design. The only way to detect problems is an actuall messurement of fluid thur the system. For instance a paddle wheel. x amount of fluid times y amount of revolutions. I hope you see where i am getting at.
Right now our controller is only capable of running off a map sensor. 2,3,3.5,4, and 5 bar map sensors. Yes some people make that much boost. We do have protype of a ls1 maff signal. I have one here on my desk. We are going to kick up production on them soon. I just have 100 things i am trying to do at once. Progressive nitrous controllers, Maff controllers, flow detector, Fords maff controller, and our stage 2 controllers with lcd screen, that will give a read out of o2's, maff hz, alky flow, and afew others things.
Right now our controller is only capable of running off a map sensor. 2,3,3.5,4, and 5 bar map sensors. Yes some people make that much boost. We do have protype of a ls1 maff signal. I have one here on my desk. We are going to kick up production on them soon. I just have 100 things i am trying to do at once. Progressive nitrous controllers, Maff controllers, flow detector, Fords maff controller, and our stage 2 controllers with lcd screen, that will give a read out of o2's, maff hz, alky flow, and afew others things.
05-16-2006, 04:58 PM
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Well the other devilsown failsafes are these. But they still all require you to get out of the throttle and will not cut your boost for you.
Full time current sensing, this will warn you with the fault light to get out of the gas by flashing the 3rd LED.
The controller will go into fault mode if
- excessive current draw (clogged nozzle)
- fault in the pump circuit (dead pump)
- controller overheat (internal saftey)
- pump wired incorrectly (user error)
- loss of pump ground wire (low level sensor add on)
Control set up to put in test switch just by adding a toggle
The 3rd LED will flash and the controller will go into fault mode for any of these issues.
The cheapest and best way to monitor your system is simply adding a snubbed pressure guage period. It's right in your face and is accurate just like your boost pressure gauge. Un snubbed guages will have violent pulsing to them and will not give you a true reading of actual pump output pressure.
Clogged nozzle (pressure will not drop when the pump is off)
Pump wired incorrectly (will show the pump cut on and off with pressure drops)
Pump failure (no pressure)
Full time current sensing, this will warn you with the fault light to get out of the gas by flashing the 3rd LED.
The controller will go into fault mode if
- excessive current draw (clogged nozzle)
- fault in the pump circuit (dead pump)
- controller overheat (internal saftey)
- pump wired incorrectly (user error)
- loss of pump ground wire (low level sensor add on)
Control set up to put in test switch just by adding a toggle
The 3rd LED will flash and the controller will go into fault mode for any of these issues.
The cheapest and best way to monitor your system is simply adding a snubbed pressure guage period. It's right in your face and is accurate just like your boost pressure gauge. Un snubbed guages will have violent pulsing to them and will not give you a true reading of actual pump output pressure.
Clogged nozzle (pressure will not drop when the pump is off)
Pump wired incorrectly (will show the pump cut on and off with pressure drops)
Pump failure (no pressure)
