Spal fan installed (now blowing fuses) ...
#1
Spal fan installed (now blowing fuses) ...
Need some help here guys. I had a Spal fan (12 inch pusher, 1360 cfm on A/C condenser) mounted on my Procharged SS and now I am blowing fuses. Any ideas or suggestions as to what to do to stop blowing fuses? Should I mount the Spal directly to the battery with a separate switch? I connected the Spal to the wiring that powered the fan on the drivers side fan before ATI got rid of it.
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate.../2029-2030.pdf
http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate.../2029-2030.pdf
#2
Did you change over from the stock fans or from an ATI setup? Might want to look at the current drawn by your new fan, compared to previous setup. I assume you have a stock alternator?
I know a guy on the board that is running two 12" Spal HP pushers wired straight into the stock wires.
I know a guy on the board that is running two 12" Spal HP pushers wired straight into the stock wires.
#4
The HP 12-inch fan you are using will pull around 20A continuous, with a 80A inrush. What size fuse are you using? Is this the stock wiring? What gauge is the wire?
Normally we at SPAL, suggest you use our fan relay harness to isolate the fan from the stock electrical system. This gives the fan a direct connection to the battery and solves a lot of problems we encounter with the stock harness.
Normally we at SPAL, suggest you use our fan relay harness to isolate the fan from the stock electrical system. This gives the fan a direct connection to the battery and solves a lot of problems we encounter with the stock harness.
#6
The wiring that I am using is the stock wiring. All I did was hook up the Spal fan to the vacant wiring harness that used to power the 2nd fan that ATI deleted. The fuses that I am blowing are the factory fuses. Nothing else was added to the set up. What is the stock number of the fan relay harness you mentioned? Thanks in advance.
#7
HI OFCR, since you're in this thread, can you comment on my plan to use two Spal #30102025 12" HP pushers? As I said above, the idea comes from a guy who has done the install; all he did to wire them up was to put male spade connectors on the fan wires and plug them straight into the factory fan plugs. He's gone two years with no blown fuses and a stock alternator on a 1998 SS. Now, I have my battery relocated to the trunk, so I'm assuming your wiring harness won't work for me anyway...
I was also surprised to see your comment: This doesn't match up with Urban Legend's number of 14.3A max draw. Can you explain these differences to us?
Thanks for any info you can provide
I was also surprised to see your comment:
will pull around 20A continuous, with a 80A inrush.
Thanks for any info you can provide
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#8
Most of the time the factory wiring is adequate as the factory fans pull a significant amount of amps. However, we normally suggest the use of our relay harness simply to isolate the fan from other electronic components. We have seen instances when the stock wiring is used where the fan turning on would alter the sensors for the ecu, and cause intermitten running problems. This is an abnormal problem, but I just wanted to illustrate that these kind of issues may arrise.
If you use the stock wiring, make sure it is at least 12 gauge wire, and on it's own circuit. You should also change the fuse value to match your chosen fan. In this case I would use a 25A fuse.
If you decide to use our harnesses, here are the part numbers:
Fan Relay Harness Part Number: FRH
Fan Relay Harness with 185 degree switch Part Number: 185FH (turns fan on at 185 and off at 165)
Fan Relay Harness with 195 degree switch Part Number: 195FH (turns fan on at 195 and off at 175)
If you use the stock wiring, make sure it is at least 12 gauge wire, and on it's own circuit. You should also change the fuse value to match your chosen fan. In this case I would use a 25A fuse.
If you decide to use our harnesses, here are the part numbers:
Fan Relay Harness Part Number: FRH
Fan Relay Harness with 185 degree switch Part Number: 185FH (turns fan on at 185 and off at 165)
Fan Relay Harness with 195 degree switch Part Number: 195FH (turns fan on at 195 and off at 175)
#9
we list the old AP6 motor at 14.5A free spinning. You need to look under "static" or load. Most radiators will be around 0.3-inches static pressure. The old AP6 will pull roughly 15.5A at 0.3-inches static. The new AP70/LL motor pulls slightly more amperage, so I always overshoot and use 20 as a rough estimate.
#12
I will now officially complete my hijacking of this thread by asking HI OFCR:
What's the simplest way to securely attach a couple of 12" Spal pushers to the condenser on an f-body? With pin mounting kits?
Thanks, and apologies...
What's the simplest way to securely attach a couple of 12" Spal pushers to the condenser on an f-body? With pin mounting kits?
Thanks, and apologies...
#13
There is no easy way to mount them on the condensor. Just make sure that when you fab up the brackets make suer they are stiff enough that when the fans kick on they dont push away from the body. In other words make them solid and stiff.