What was wrong with the Hot Cam? Do you have conclusive dyno or track results proving it didn't work?

Mike

 

I will not argue the front mount produce some more entrophy which relates into about 1/2-1 psi. at the correct operating temperature. However.

What these guys are trying to do
1) is move weight to the back for traction.
2) Run consistant power. High hp front mounts are seeing 170-210 IAT's after a run on hot day. Rear mounts about 80-85. Power loss there on front mount anything, after one run, absolutely.
3) More importantly, timing is being pulled. This is a problem.

It will be interesting if vented SIDE front mounts come to market (can execute and deliver). Outside of the engine bay, in the front wheel weld. There is at least one company working on that now. It might have most of the benefits with the least negatives.

 

Hotcam worked great NA for me, but the turbo it didn't. The cam just didn't have enough torque to get it going, that's why I put 4.10's in it to start with, little did i know, the turbo wouldn't spool correctly with that low of a gear and it wouldn't build boost as fast as a stock cam with higher lsa and less duration. It's okay okay cam, can't knock it, just not optimized for turbo use.

 

I did research a little and asked that "?" more out of WTF, this has been mostly centered around the arguement that there are 7 and 8 second rear mounts running around....which BUYAMERICAN should edit his post and say there MAY be some 7 & 8 sec. rearmpounts coming out...since there are NONE at this time. Funny how things get OT yet stay so close.

Bottom line BUYAMERICAN, there are no 7 or 8second rear mount guys running right now, not tomorrow, but right now, which is contradictive to your earlier posts. There may be 100guys working on that setup and goal, but until one does it, it hasnt been done so we cant claim it has! And out of 100 that try, odds are only 3 will succeed, do your research and see how many ppl had goals of running those numbers regular front mount FI and how many made it anywhere near their goal season.

chuntington101...Issue b/w the Pro guys running high compression and FI and LSx is the clamping force provided by only 4bolts/cylinder. Now if someone takes the Warlock block and heads with 6 bolts/cylinder and runs like that, is it really an LSx setup? I would argue no, as I am sure the extra 2bolts/cyl gives it distinct advanage that the 4bolt/cyl can never achieve, but its still excellent to do.

 

Fellas... after some considerable research and reading, I agree that there may be some setups that the shops are putting together that may be capable of this. I am leaning to backing off my build some and saving some money!!! Thinking a 370 vs: 408... will this allow me to run 60#'s with progressive Meth instead of springing for a stand alone to run low impedance injectors?

 

I would think you would be fine with the 370 and 60's. Standalone and low-impedance will cost some cash. =\ You'll be golden with your 20# of boost bud. =)

 

fuel wont be your enemy on the quest for 9s, 60 foots will be..

I'm running 55lb siemans injectors with a pair of in-tank 255s, -8 line and a front mounted regulator - thats it. But my car 60's in the very low 1.3s..

 

KP that is amazing... 60' is 1.3??? My best is a 1.5 60'. That is one of my concerns as the major diff between the 370 and 408 is TQ. HP is similar... I need a good set of wheels and tires. Think I may upgrad my TQ arm as well from the basic BMR I have... FFHP is squaring me away with the motor, Billy (TRTurbo) is going to do the build for me.... I am taking a more budget approach as I cant compete with a shop car. But I can still build a fast one!!

So 60# with Meth will be enough for ~800 RWHP? That is what I am thinking I will see with my upcomming setup.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the 60's act more like 72's at 58 psi fuel pressure. 72's are good for over 800 rwhp.

Mike

 

60's act like bigger injectors at higher pressure as long as they are not fighting against boost in the intake. 58psi of fuel pressure is only acting like 48 psi of fuel pressure at 10psi of boost, unless you have a 1:1 rising regulator, then you have 68psi of pressure which is acting like 58psi of pressure.

 

Zombie.... you are referring to a boost reference FPR?

 

I can spin the tires at the line, let completely off and get back on it and still do better then 1.5 60's

I'm making 680rwhp at 95% duty cycle with the 55s but thats through a TH400 with an 8 inch converter, I had motoron 60s in the car for a while and they did about the same. Meth will get some more power as well, I dont use it.

Also running a stock type torque arm, random tech, nothing fancy. But I have a fairly light car as well (3300lbs raceweight) so I dont need a ton of power, lighter is easier on everything and one of the cheapest ways to go quicker.

With an M6 and a turbo its tricky getting the car to 60' hard, getting in the 10s is one thing but getting in the 9s takes a very good 60 foot or just a ton of horsepower - or a little of both

 

Yea that is one of the things I gotta work on!!! I need to get my setup for the 2-step to pull the timing so I can be in boost at launch. You are allot lighter than my street trim TA is... I am sure that helps too. I have a 35spline 9" and a Carbon fiber DS... my drivetrain can take the launch. I am going to a tubular K member up front... lighten it up some in the right area.

 

Take all the weight you can off the front and leave all you can on the rear, having the turbo back there helps, I have 86lbs of blower and intercooler hanging in front of the front wheels.

Weight means a lot, its a constant battle if its a street/strip car, safety stuff adds a ton of weight, stout drivetrain stuff adds weight etc. I said I would stop with this car when it ran 10.0x and I would keep it 100% streetable, well that didnt happen

 

I'm fighting the weight battle, well . . . at least in my head, right now also. My car is a pig. Full stock weight + turbo + intercooler + water reservoir + cage + all the electronics (Meth kit, Versafueler, Crane, WBO2, scanner, etc).

I've run 143 mph with all that stuff. Next time I go to the track, I plan to take out the spare tire and jack, rear seats, and put some skinnies on the front.

When I start looking for other ways to lighten it up, I talk myself out of it. I don't want to remove the bumper bracing, ABS, air bags, or any other safety equipment because I don't want to get a Darwin Awards (what idiot removes safety equipment from a 900+ hp car). I sure like my A/C, cruise, PW, PL, PS, plus it gives me bragging rights to it being a true street car.

kp, give me some more ideas!

Mike

 

Just want to chime in and comment that my rear twins, on a iron 409, ran a 10.88 at a lil over 10 lbs boost... with nearly a 1.95 60 ft, shiting at like 5700... and this was in crappy conditions.
Last night I hit 20 lbs and the Micky Thompsons schredded at the top of 2nd gear and into 3rd on the street. I dont know what the car is capable of, especially with a Trail Blazer 6 cyl converter (would be better with a real stall ), but if i could hook with 20 lbs, I think it'd be one fast ****.
I beleive rear mounts are wonderful, easy, cool and the only expense is some efficiency. I think we will see more 9 sec rear turbo cars this year, with nice driveability too. For the record, i did just sell my kit, oh, about 10 minutes ago... and Im sick already.
FWIW, my car is 4k lbs. (vert)

 

Sometimes, when my boost comes up, I do that too.

 

What are you doing next? Getting out of the fast car scene or going bigger?

 

LOL...I am shitting and shifting... parden the pun. I do get palipatations when Im about to climb in her.

Ill never leave the fast car scene. I have a road race Z06 im playing with, and im looking into a change for this car... I usually change each winter, but this was an extended stay. I've had Head/Cam, Twin front mount, twin rear mount, and not sure whats next... I have considered letting it sit till winter and invest the $ into the road race car...who knows. I like to have something unique... and before i did something stupid, like add a Pro-Charger (and keep rear mounts) I thought it best to stay ahead of the game and move on. I always liked the idea of hanging the turbos out of the hood, like an old school blower .
But, for today, there are no plans with the $, other than to get some new rubber and brakes, and possably wheels for the Z06.

 

Not a lot of stuff you can do if you want to keep it a true street car with AC and all the stock safety stuff. All you can do is just keep adding more power until you run the number you want if you dont want to take anything off. My interior still looks decent, nothing is hacked off the car really but race brakes, roll cage, rattling rod ends and kirkey seats doesnt make for a comfortable ride any more But I still have power steering, brakes, windows, alarm still works, stock hood etc but thats because I'm too lazy to change it more then anything.

Stuff like light carpet, light battery, light wheels/tires, light driveshaft, drilled axles, K-member, chrome moly everything suspension parts is about all you can do without tearing stuff out on one of these.

My car is just getting too compromised to street drive any more really, I use the lightweight approach since I make over 150 passes a year usually and light weight = easier on parts. At 3300lbs its hard for me to call a car 'light' though, my real race cars were 25-2700lbs raceweight - thats a fairly light door car